mpcv2000

iTrader: (1)

Here's what I have :


Lloyd Elliot LE2 package.
-Fully Ported heads .
-Fully ported Intake manifold.
-Custom camshaft 223/230 .565/.565 112 LSA .
-Mr Gasket 5716 head gaskets .026".
-Fel Pro 1284 intake gaskets.


Here's what I have my eyes on :



LT1 383 Forged Stroker Shortblock
Fully Internally Balanced
JE/SRP Forged Pistons Flat Top +0.030 1.125 C.H. 10.8:1 with 64cc Heads
Eagle Sir 5140 Forged Steel Rods - 'I' Beam 6" Length, 2.10 Rod Journal, .927 Floating Pin Design
Eagle Cast Steel/Nodular Iron 3.75" Crank
King Street Performance Rod and Main Bearings
Mable Moly Rings
Uses std Damper/Pulley on Front and std Neutral Balance Flywheel/Flexplate on Rear.



Before getting it I just want to make sure this will work with my LE2 kit.


Thanks.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

It will work, but that's about it. There are a few flaws with that combo, most notably the following:

Eagle cast crank is a poor choice. They have an outlandish failure rate as of late (myself included). There have been several cases of them breaking under load on mild HP motors. I would avoid it like the plague.

Stroker motors need lots of duration and lift, and that cam won't really cut it. You'd be leaving alot on the table with that grind. Will it work? Yes. Will you set the world on fire? No. There are hundreds of LT1 owners who use that grind on stock heads and displacement.

mpcv2000

iTrader: (1)

Ok , I ask Lloyd for this particular cam because of my driving style , no track , no races , no lapping , just cruising around in town on sunny days.

I'm dicing on having the new LE2 set up installed on my actual short block or new 383 stroker kit.


Here's what I have right now ( LE2 kit not received or installed yet ) :


GM LT1 5.7 Litre.
JE SRP Forged Pistons (10.3:1 compression).
Manley Sportsman Forged Rods.
GM hotcam Kit (hotcam, LT4 springs, 1.6 Roller Rocker).
Aluminum heads.
Headman Headers to 2.5" Y into 3" N1 pipe to Magnaflow muffler.
Holley 255lph fuel pump.
MSD Ignition.
CSR Electric Water pump.

mpcv2000

iTrader: (1)

More infos...


The rods are manley I beams, stock length. The pistons are SRP forged flattops with 4 valve reliefs and compression is around 10.5:1 with stock headgaskets and 11:1 with Cometic MLS gaskets, the engine has stock gaskets as it is.

The main and rod bearings are clevite, The crank is stock + nitrided. All rotating parts are cryo treated. Main berring clearance is .003 and the ring gaps are 1st ring .024 2nd ring .018. Engine was externally balanced

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Since drivability is a concern, I would just reuse your current bottom end as that should be able to handle tons of power and make the car enjoyable to drive. Also, 10.3:1 static compression is incredibly low for an LT1. No doubt that is pulling your dynamic compression waaaay down (unless you want to run it on 87 octane... ).

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

I would pass on that shortblock. Eagle parts have been pretty bad lately, many failures.

I dont remember what you have for a bottom end but even the stocker should handle the same amount of power as the one you have your eye on. The only thing in there worth anything is the piston and even those arent the best.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Cast crank is ok as long as you dont spray over a 150 shot.


Cam is too small.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

I still wouldn't trust the Eagle cast.

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

Not an Eagle one. You can gamble, but why would you?

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

I have buddies who have run STOCK cranks into the low 11's and high 10's.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

No one is denying that the stock cast crank is butch...that's common knowledge. We're talking about cast Eagle junk specifically.

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

Reading comprehension FTW

mpcv2000

iTrader: (1)

Ok looks like this short block I'm looking for may not be the most popular.

I will not use any NOS or supercharger of some kind.
I'll hit the 1/4 miles maybe 5 times per summer just for the heck of it.
I love the drivability and reliability the car has right now . I also love the little "loop" the camshaft has when idling.

Except the machine work of the 383 CI block what are the most popular parts ( brand name ) I should be looking for ?

-Crankshaft :
-Rods :
-Pistons ( rings ) :

Don't forget the top end I'll be running is the LE2 package with a stock Ported intake and a custom camshaft all from Lloyd Elliott .

mpcv2000

iTrader: (1)

Since I've started the thread this afternoon the short block got sold anyway .

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

I'm running Wiseco +.030 -13cc, 4340 3.8 eagle crank and 6" H beams. My cam is very streetable, at 560+ on both sides with duration @.050 230/240 and a lobe sep of 107.5. I believe I'm at around 11.4:1.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

why not just stick with what you have? this is one of those cases, where there's no point in building a 383.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

I would never use an Eagle cast crank.

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

pick up a compstar or callies crank
Lunati, scat, Manley, oliver(exp, scat-cheap) rods
JE, Ross, Mahle, Diamond, SRP, TRW, Slugs


mix in match, no no just kidding. Do what your engine builder wants, but stay away from Eagle and scat cranks, scat rods seem to do fine tho. Eagles rods are just as bad as the cranks.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

I would not run the CAST eagle crank on an LE2 383, but to write eagle and scat both off as trash is silly. Especially considering the huge amount of cars here that do not even break 500 flywheel hp.

Really? Because the rod bolts are the weak link, and the Eagles come with ARP2000s and have been proven in cars that make a lot more power then 99.9% of anything NA on this site (he said he will not be spraying).

The Eagle H-beams are good to 700hp as-is. Not many here are even making that much, even on spray. Upgrade to the optional L19s and you are good to go for what, 900hp or so? I don't know about you but that sounds like plenty to me.

Cast versions of both scat and eagle cranks are only recommended for 450-500 flywheel hp, a number easily reached with a decent setup...just an LE2 kit on a 355 is too much for them. Forged Eagle cranks though are good to well over 1,000hp on a smallblock. They have BBCs making over 1,600 on their cranks...

I can count the amount of LTXs on this site who make too much power for Forged Eagle/Scat cranks on one hand.

For a car that will admittedly see the track maybe 5 times a year, with a priority on manners, I would do a 355 refresh and have the stock crank and rods reconditioned, upgrade to decently priced pistons for piece of mind, and slap the LE2 topend on that. More power then you would need for cruising, and your drivability and reliability will not be changed.

mpcv2000

iTrader: (1)

That is some very good infos.
Like someone said , I will not spray or use any kind of supercharger.
I was looking at my car and I don't think I'll be able to swap heads and camshaft with the motor in place ( 89 Mazda RX7 ) .

This motor has been built & owned by a member here back in 04/05 and then sold to a guy in Pensacola Florida via eBay for the V8 swap in the Mazda .

According to my search the motor should have around 10,000 Miles but I don't know how many abused it has survived and since I may have to remove the motor for my LE2 swap and I don't want to have a down time more then 1week since it is summer time here.

I was looking at the 383 short block a guy had for sale on eBay for $1000.00 but wasn't sure if it was a good setup for me LE2 kit.
Anyway it got sold ( with a buy it now ) within a few hours.

Maybe I should gather parts and have one built but I'll still need to know what would be the right parts to buy.

-Crankshaft :
-Rods :
-Pistons & Rings :
-Oil pump ( maybe ) :

The rest of it is machine works , bearings and misc. stuff. + I'll be able to sell my actual longBlock that is perfectly running for a certain amount of money to cover part of the cost of my built.

Thanks for all the infos you guys are pitching in.