383 short block project with LE2 top end.***Now running***Jan. 2011
#201
I would take a clean white napkin or piece of paper towel and reach behind the head and wipe it along the bottom of the crossover tube. If the crossover tube leaks (very common), the fluid will run to the gap between the head and the block and then to whatever the lowest point is. From that pic that you posted I see ZERO coolant running from the bolt head over the cylinder head. I see a little bit of green between the head and block.
#202
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100% sure it is from the head bolt.
If I pressurize the system I can see it and I can also see it when the car is running.
I know it is no big deal but I'm not in the mood to remove the header , clean and retorq the bolt yet .
If I pressurize the system I can see it and I can also see it when the car is running.
I know it is no big deal but I'm not in the mood to remove the header , clean and retorq the bolt yet .
Last edited by mpcv2000; 01-09-2011 at 07:18 PM.
#203
You don't need to fully remove them. They need to be unbolted and pulled away from the head an inch or 2. You just need enough room to get a socket and wrench on the bolt.
#207
That's one reason I'm glad I had my machinist/engine builder fire my new engine and break it in so they could re-torque every nut and bolt in the engine before it ever gets in the car. I know there are no leaks, noises, knocks or anything else before I install the engine, because we all know what a pia it is to do once the engine is installed.
#208
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I haven't done anything yet.
I'm working on the rear end of the car right now but I know I'll have to remove this stud , clean it and re-torque it .
Everything else looks fine so far.
I'm working on the rear end of the car right now but I know I'll have to remove this stud , clean it and re-torque it .
Everything else looks fine so far.
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Time for a little update.
The leaky head stud barely leaks anymore after adding some Bar Leak stop.
Since it is winter here still and I cannot drive my car , what I do is , sit in it , start it let it warm up and dream about been outside spinning the tires but I have realized that I have a weird vibration around 1500RPM .
After some reading and searching I have realized that my motor is now internally balance so that means I need a "0" balance flywheel and "harmonic balancer".
The LT1 , if I'm not mistaking already have a neutral harmonic balancer but the flywheel has a weight on it even my Fidanza 12.5 Lbs has the weight on it but it can be removed to make it neutral for internally balance motor.
So you know what I forgot ?
I forgot to remove it.... so you will guess what I did..
Removed the transmission , bell housing , pressure plate etc to remove this weight and while I was there I've decided to send it to the machine shop to make all 3 parts neutral balance.
Transmission on the floor again.
On the bench again
The weight I forgot to removed
Pressure plate had to be drilled to make it "0".
and so the flywheel
Weightless
Since I had to go to the machine shop where my motor was built I finally was able to get some technical info about my compression ratio.
Here's the result :
While I was reading about Neutral balance etc. I came across many article about the Fluidampr that was one of the best for 7000RPM and less so I got myself one.
Balancer is on.
So this is done and the car runs fine a friend of mine came home to do a base tune with mu Tuner C.A.T.S.
Car now runs even better and I should be ready for the break in period.
While testing on jack stand the car in gear my clutch pedal when suddenly to the floor after making a shift and it started making noises.
I turn off the car , removed the hydrolic cylinder on the bell housing to find out my fork came lose.
After a little investigation I found out the threads for the bolt on the fork pivot came off......
So it's time to remove the transmission again to put a helicoil for the fork pivot bolt.
Exhaust line on the floor again.
I'm getting good at removing the transmission.....
Threads are gone...
Helicoil in place nice and clean like new ( maybe better ) .
I'm not using a longer bolt and I was able to catch thread after the helicoil so this should be very strong.
Fork and bolt etc. back in place.
Ready to be put back in.
Car is back running and I'm waiting for the snow to melt .
This is all the update I have for now.
This kept me busy at least....
The leaky head stud barely leaks anymore after adding some Bar Leak stop.
Since it is winter here still and I cannot drive my car , what I do is , sit in it , start it let it warm up and dream about been outside spinning the tires but I have realized that I have a weird vibration around 1500RPM .
After some reading and searching I have realized that my motor is now internally balance so that means I need a "0" balance flywheel and "harmonic balancer".
The LT1 , if I'm not mistaking already have a neutral harmonic balancer but the flywheel has a weight on it even my Fidanza 12.5 Lbs has the weight on it but it can be removed to make it neutral for internally balance motor.
So you know what I forgot ?
I forgot to remove it.... so you will guess what I did..
Removed the transmission , bell housing , pressure plate etc to remove this weight and while I was there I've decided to send it to the machine shop to make all 3 parts neutral balance.
Transmission on the floor again.
On the bench again
The weight I forgot to removed
Pressure plate had to be drilled to make it "0".
and so the flywheel
Weightless
Since I had to go to the machine shop where my motor was built I finally was able to get some technical info about my compression ratio.
Here's the result :
While I was reading about Neutral balance etc. I came across many article about the Fluidampr that was one of the best for 7000RPM and less so I got myself one.
Balancer is on.
So this is done and the car runs fine a friend of mine came home to do a base tune with mu Tuner C.A.T.S.
Car now runs even better and I should be ready for the break in period.
While testing on jack stand the car in gear my clutch pedal when suddenly to the floor after making a shift and it started making noises.
I turn off the car , removed the hydrolic cylinder on the bell housing to find out my fork came lose.
After a little investigation I found out the threads for the bolt on the fork pivot came off......
So it's time to remove the transmission again to put a helicoil for the fork pivot bolt.
Exhaust line on the floor again.
I'm getting good at removing the transmission.....
Threads are gone...
Helicoil in place nice and clean like new ( maybe better ) .
I'm not using a longer bolt and I was able to catch thread after the helicoil so this should be very strong.
Fork and bolt etc. back in place.
Ready to be put back in.
Car is back running and I'm waiting for the snow to melt .
This is all the update I have for now.
This kept me busy at least....
#211
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Shitty luck about the flywheel and bolt/helicoil going bad. You must be a pro no at pulling the trans now after so many re and re's lol. If you can get any more vids of the idea now that its been tuned that would be awesome! Got my short done and eagerly awaiting spring to put it in and see how well this baby cam works!
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Car is finally on it's wheel and has been rolled off the garage for a little idle walk around video.
I think it sounds awasome.
..clic me..
I think it sounds awasome.
..clic me..