cookietime

I have a 94 camaro, considering bigger throttle body , and maybe injectors, for a few more ponies.
what cam i expect in gains?
car already has cc305, behive springs ,cai, gutted cat, elderbrook shorty headers, magnaflow exhaust, and roller rockers.
Stock rear 3/23s i think ,auto, pmc tuned
got her to 103 this past fri nite at island dragway in nj, tryin for a little beter

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

If you aren't pushing your current injectors beyond their limits, 0 gain there.

I've heard a 58mm TB is worth about 10hp.

OVA1

iTrader: (12)

Man, the stock throttle body is good to > 400 hp.

Now, you're driving a 16 year old car, so new injectors sure wont hurt; but don't expect any major gains, except and unless your stockers are clogged/defective, or you're flowing more air than they can handle; and you're not, based upon the mods you've listed. You didn't list any form of induction (N20, turbo, blower), you're running stock heads and shorty headers, so don't EVEN worry about the TB OR Injectors, except as a maintenance item, as I mentioned.

Unless you know it's already been done, you'd be dollars ahead to take a hard look at the breathers. Odds are that they're untouched from the assembly line and you could recoup some potentially substaintial lost power, by pulling the heads and getting her a quality valve job.

Avoid the temptation to skip the foundational maintenance on the heads, a good 3 or 5 angle valve job is WAY cheaper than new heads, and they can really recoup some lost power.

After, or beyond that, you're best performance coin is going to be a quality stall (smaller diameter, torque converter) to compliment the torque curve of that cam.

I don't know anything about your cam specifics, but lets assume that its starting to generate strong torque at 3200 RPM; a quality stall will provide that your tranny will allow your engine to return from each shift, to 3200 rpms, right at or near the sweet spot of your cam generates the most power.

The difference in performance is night and day. Two auto F-bodies; both equal in every respect, except one is equiped with a quality 9" stall; the stalled unit will destroy the stocker throughout the entire shift bandwidth. Simply because it is shifting into it's prime torque curve. The Vigilante or Yank will set ya back around $750. The Vig will hit harder out of the hole, the Yank will slip less up top... Used 'em both, love 'em both. Driver's choice.

Everyone worries about 'drivability' or street-ability... DO NOT WORRY ABOUT THIS. It's better in every way, unless and until you are cammed into vaccume issues, which requires very high RPM stall and you live in the mountains, which most of us and based upon your mod list, isn't an issue.

Call your cam-manufacturer and just ask the tech department what size stall they recommend.

I started with a remanned 12" 2500. That was a mistake. It was only half the price of a good 9" stall, so I bit, trying to save the coin. I've ended up with a 3600 Yank and LOVE IT! Street manners are perfect for what I'm looking for. Light to Light... 0-60 runs... on a very mild 218-224 / 565-565 cam.

After that, it's gears in the rear... Most people will tell you that the 3.73 is the best set up for the auto. If this is your DD, that's probably the way to go. If it's an after work, week-end toy, I installed the 4.10s and absolutely LOVED 'EM!

At that point, you're a strong 12 second ride.

meine96ws6

iTrader: (4)

put your money else where for a few hp..

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

When my car was bolt ons with shorty headers, it trapped 104mph, is everything running right? Shouldn't a cammed car be trapping higher, or is the stock stall really killing you?

dlk1950

When I was running a cc305 stock TB & Injectors were fine..If I were you,as has been said, I would be looking at a stall about 3600.

OVA1

iTrader: (12)

Well, there's a ton of variables from DA to track conditions and of course the condition of the vehicle.

I thought it sounded a little light myself. But All of my passes on a 1/8th mile track. Stock we ran +/- 78mph. Headers and Cam/stall, gears; N/A, took us to mid to high 80s depending on DA and track conditions. If I had to put an average on it, 86-88. What that translates to in the 1/4 I dunno.

hsproyaya

iTrader: (4)

only step up your TB size when you can confirm your a/f mixture is becoming low at higher rpms, save the cash get a windband and put on a $15 airfoil

cookietime

yank 3600 is friendly enough for an everyday driver?
My lt1 has stock trans and rear, wont converter beat the **** out out of both of them?
Or is that just the cost of the "need for speed???"

OVA1

iTrader: (12)

LOL... Good guess.

First rule of thermo-dynamics: "Everything gets harder under pressure..."

And the hard part in the go fast biz, is that it cost money to go fast, and the pressure never gets higher than when ya jump the shark and build on top of a poor foundation.

So, if the question is, 'will my tranny fail?' The answer is: yes.

And it's a certainty that the harder you drive it, the sooner it's going to fail.

Short cuts will only make sure that it fails sooner...

So since well maintained, freshly rebuilt trannies tend to fail less often than trannies well in need of rebuilding, I wouldn't want to put a $750 stall into a fragile old tranny, that's for sure.

So, yeah... you should have your drivetrain foundation inspected, and if it needs a rebuilding, rebuild it.

But, the point here is that you'd be wasting money on the throttle body mod. Same with the injectors, unless your stockers are failin'.

But if you're serious about your ride and want to go faster, make sure your foundation is solid, do what needs to be done to make it that way and start spending your kids college education and your retirement.

Nothin' to it really.