AI 355 Build Thread and More
Yeah, I know. I know the spring failure rate for these are less than 99%. I had all the springs tested when I had the valve guide and valves replaced but, you never can tell with springs sometimes. I'm just lucky nothing else was damaged, I had to pull it all back apart just to be sure.
About 4K, actually a little less.
I'm so sick and tired of doing valve springs. Ghey. I believe the spring was damaged from the last motor blowing up too.
I'm so sick and tired of doing valve springs. Ghey. I believe the spring was damaged from the last motor blowing up too.
Yeah, I know. I know the spring failure rate for these are less than 99%. I had all the springs tested when I had the valve guide and valves replaced but, you never can tell with springs sometimes. I'm just lucky nothing else was damaged, I had to pull it all back apart just to be sure.
About 4K, actually a little less.
I'm so sick and tired of doing valve springs. Ghey. I believe the spring was damaged from the last motor blowing up too.
About 4K, actually a little less.
I'm so sick and tired of doing valve springs. Ghey. I believe the spring was damaged from the last motor blowing up too.
Yea me too...at least you can put them on a bench though and won't be leaned over a car for 1.5hrs...LOL
Hell I still think mine may have a miss...I hope it was just low voltage.. It pulled to the shift light in 3rd though....
That's massive carnage, I've known for awhile that all Eagle cranks are junk, my machinist told me to stay far far away from them. Does anyone know if the Scat cast cranks have the same problem breaking? I'm going to be rebuilding an LT1 soon to put in my 95 Chevy Blazer 4x4 and I want max torque from it so I want to stroke it on a budget. I'm going to be running Scat 4340 6" Pro Comp rods, SRP -16cc dish forged pistons and the 2 bolt block with studs and a main girdle. I also want to get the heads treated to an LE1 or LE2 port job and one of his cams or a GM 846 cam.
Will I be ok with a Scat Comp 9000 3.75" stroke crank for this na no N2o setup?
Will I be ok with a Scat Comp 9000 3.75" stroke crank for this na no N2o setup?
prob cause he is running the same heads as the OP and that is the most common spring that AI runs on their setups....
unless you pay for their upgraded springs which are really expensive and have titanium retainers....but you can tell from the pic that the OP does not....
Just a guess....
unless you pay for their upgraded springs which are really expensive and have titanium retainers....but you can tell from the pic that the OP does not....
Just a guess....
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That's massive carnage, I've known for awhile that all Eagle cranks are junk, my machinist told me to stay far far away from them. Does anyone know if the Scat cast cranks have the same problem breaking? I'm going to be rebuilding an LT1 soon to put in my 95 Chevy Blazer 4x4 and I want max torque from it so I want to stroke it on a budget. I'm going to be running Scat 4340 6" Pro Comp rods, SRP -16cc dish forged pistons and the 2 bolt block with studs and a main girdle. I also want to get the heads treated to an LE1 or LE2 port job and one of his cams or a GM 846 cam.
Will I be ok with a Scat Comp 9000 3.75" stroke crank for this na no N2o setup?
Will I be ok with a Scat Comp 9000 3.75" stroke crank for this na no N2o setup?
I ran my Scat cast crank for 7 years up to 600rw and when it came out it was mint. I would use it again in a heartbeat.
The crank was bought in 02 so I can't comment on the quality now much as I am sure Eagle was not bad back in the day and then probably started cutting corners in quality.
Well, I got the car back together and it seems to be running better than before. I still have an idle issue in gear though but, I found the IAC connector broken so I need to get another connector and fix it. I also did a fuel line relocation while I had the car apart.
Last edited by SpeedDensityZ; Sep 17, 2010 at 03:34 AM.
Over the brake booster.
Hooked up under the car.
Ran along side the SFC's into the stock location under the lift pad behind the driver fender.
I know, I alteast need to relocate the battery. In a couple weeks I'm going to build my own alternator relocation kit to help clean it up some more. Prob. gonna do some wire tucks on the passenger side as well.
Last edited by SpeedDensityZ; Sep 17, 2010 at 05:13 PM.
[QUOTE
I know, I alteast need to relocate the battery. In a couple weeks I'm going to build my own alternator relocation kit to help clean it up some more. Prob. gonna do some wire tucks on the passenger side as well.[/QUOTE]
I have been telling you to relocate FOREVER!!!!
I may have some insight on the alt relocate....
And since I now take every opportunity I can to ***** out my alt, wire and fuel line relocates...
Hell find my high rpm miss and I will make and powder coat your alt bracket for you!!!!
Sincerely
Da Bish across the street....
I know, I alteast need to relocate the battery. In a couple weeks I'm going to build my own alternator relocation kit to help clean it up some more. Prob. gonna do some wire tucks on the passenger side as well.[/QUOTE]
I have been telling you to relocate FOREVER!!!!
I may have some insight on the alt relocate....
And since I now take every opportunity I can to ***** out my alt, wire and fuel line relocates...
Hell find my high rpm miss and I will make and powder coat your alt bracket for you!!!!
Sincerely
Da Bish across the street....
Well, I've spun this ignition system I have now to 7k without issues. We'll keep trading my parts out until it fixes it and then we'll replace that part. In the meantime here is an idle video I did this afternoon. I don't have a video camera and my digital camera only takes like 7sec videos. Here's 2 of them. Enjoy. BTW, the exhaust is Hooker LT's, ORY, and a Dynomax Bullet dumped.
The disadvantage of relocating the battery is that you have to run a cut off switch. When I relocated my alternator, I bought an Ebay kit for SBC and then just cut bar to give it the correct spacing for an LT1. It was a cheap way to get it done, but you could easily build one for almost nothing with a bit of plate and tube steel.