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I wouldn't even bother with relocating the battery. You end up helping weight transfer some, but you also end up adding weight to the car and also the potential for more problems. Issues that are amplified with late model/efi/high electrical demand cars. I use to have a group 70 series sidepost battery that was very light and cheap that I would swap in at the track. I haven't seen that size offered anywhere (on the shelf) in awhile. I'm going to look into that again myself.
I know all about relocating the battery. I did it too the car way back when I built the first motor for the car. I always had starting issues and finally got fed up enough with it to just put the battery back where it is now. Now that I think about it I will probably leave it where it is. As for the alternator relocation, The one MattSapp95_T/A did is really nice, he cut an modified the top of the bracket and added a piece of angle iron on the side where the alternator can bolt. The alternator bolts in the location of the A/C compressor and you keep the powersteering and the tensioner in the stock location. He has about 60.00 in it buying the new pulley, belt, and having it powdercoated and it is one real nice piece. "Tireburnin" do you have a picture of your relocation you could post?
I know all about relocating the battery. I did it too the car way back when I built the first motor for the car. I always had starting issues and finally got fed up enough with it to just put the battery back where it is now. Now that I think about it I will probably leave it where it is. As for the alternator relocation, The one MattSapp95_T/A did is really nice, he cut an modified the top of the bracket and added a piece of angle iron on the side where the alternator can bolt. The alternator bolts in the location of the A/C compressor and you keep the powersteering and the tensioner in the stock location. He has about 60.00 in it buying the new pulley, belt, and having it powdercoated and it is one real nice piece. "Tireburnin" do you have a picture of your relocation you could post?
Cell phone picture, but you get the idea.
Nice and simple. I think I'm still going to modify my stock bracket to keep the power steering. I'm still running 17's until I get the money to buy a drag setup. I'm in the process of saving for a rear at the moment.
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Thanks man, I thought it sounded pretty good too. I wonder if there is some power to be had by going to a true dual setup? I just love the clearance I have now.
As for Mattsapp95_T/A's engine bay, he drilled a hole and put all those wires underneath the inner fender well. The engine bay was not repainted but, we are going to do it soon.
As for Mattsapp95_T/A's engine bay, he drilled a hole and put all those wires underneath the inner fender well. The engine bay was not repainted but, we are going to do it soon.
Thanks a lot... Not repainted yet we are planning on doing it soon though...it really needs it....
Like Speed said you drill a 1 1'2" hole above your PCM and run your wire loom on the bottom side of your fender... Pretty easy only took 1/2 an hour...
The video sound good...You should have gotten one standing at the rear bumper I think that is where the car sounds the best....
I think I would go with a 4" Y pipe to a bullet and dump over an X pipe just for clearance issues...
Thanks man, I thought it sounded pretty good too. I wonder if there is some power to be had by going to a true dual setup? I just love the clearance I have now.
As for Mattsapp95_T/A's engine bay, he drilled a hole and put all those wires underneath the inner fender well. The engine bay was not repainted but, we are going to do it soon.
As for Mattsapp95_T/A's engine bay, he drilled a hole and put all those wires underneath the inner fender well. The engine bay was not repainted but, we are going to do it soon.
xpipe kit...http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30662...oductId=755652
4'x3" pipe...http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30611...oductId=752882
3" clamps...http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30853...ductId=1256861
dynomax bullets...http://www.jegs.com/i/Dynomax/289/24...oductId=749870
turn downs...http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30643...oductId=752880
hangers...http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30815...ductId=1130500
I didn't gain anything over a hooker catback when I went with duals except weight. I actually lost 6rwhp but it was on 2 different dyno's on 2 different days, but track results backed up the dyno #'s. I'm not sure if the spiral flows were restrictive or what.
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 6
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Thanks for sharing all this info, f- bodies are new to me - so all the pics and info of what worked and what didn't will make my project easier to tackle.
I have a 94 Formula, all stock w. slp cold air and a loudmouth, 110,000 on the clock, and at least 60k on the opti, if the original owner didnt replace it then it has 110
I have a 94 Formula, all stock w. slp cold air and a loudmouth, 110,000 on the clock, and at least 60k on the opti, if the original owner didnt replace it then it has 110
The true dual setup does look great!! Thanks for the heads up Speed, I know it's hard to find real life feedback sometimes and I thank you for it. Well, it's official. I just got back from Tampa with a Moser 12bolt. It has 33 spline axles, 3.73 gears, and an eaton posi. I plan on replacing the posi with a spool since the spider gears are pretty much trashed. The ring gear looks to be in excellent shape though, it only has a couple small chips in it and they are not located in the wear pattern. I got it for 900.00 which I think is a pretty good deal. I should have it done and finished for under 1150.00.
Last edited by SpeedDensityZ; Sep 19, 2010 at 03:59 PM.