LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

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Old 09-18-2010, 09:45 AM
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I wouldn't even bother with relocating the battery. You end up helping weight transfer some, but you also end up adding weight to the car and also the potential for more problems. Issues that are amplified with late model/efi/high electrical demand cars. I use to have a group 70 series sidepost battery that was very light and cheap that I would swap in at the track. I haven't seen that size offered anywhere (on the shelf) in awhile. I'm going to look into that again myself.
Old 09-18-2010, 10:41 AM
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I know all about relocating the battery. I did it too the car way back when I built the first motor for the car. I always had starting issues and finally got fed up enough with it to just put the battery back where it is now. Now that I think about it I will probably leave it where it is. As for the alternator relocation, The one MattSapp95_T/A did is really nice, he cut an modified the top of the bracket and added a piece of angle iron on the side where the alternator can bolt. The alternator bolts in the location of the A/C compressor and you keep the powersteering and the tensioner in the stock location. He has about 60.00 in it buying the new pulley, belt, and having it powdercoated and it is one real nice piece. "Tireburnin" do you have a picture of your relocation you could post?
Old 09-18-2010, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by SpeedDensityZ
I know all about relocating the battery. I did it too the car way back when I built the first motor for the car. I always had starting issues and finally got fed up enough with it to just put the battery back where it is now. Now that I think about it I will probably leave it where it is. As for the alternator relocation, The one MattSapp95_T/A did is really nice, he cut an modified the top of the bracket and added a piece of angle iron on the side where the alternator can bolt. The alternator bolts in the location of the A/C compressor and you keep the powersteering and the tensioner in the stock location. He has about 60.00 in it buying the new pulley, belt, and having it powdercoated and it is one real nice piece. "Tireburnin" do you have a picture of your relocation you could post?


Cell phone picture, but you get the idea.
Old 09-18-2010, 12:31 PM
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Nice and simple. I think I'm still going to modify my stock bracket to keep the power steering. I'm still running 17's until I get the money to buy a drag setup. I'm in the process of saving for a rear at the moment.
Old 09-18-2010, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeedDensityZ
I'm in the process of saving for a rear at the moment.
New or used it still hurts.
Old 09-18-2010, 08:47 PM
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Tell me about it. I think I may have something lined up for a descent price though.
Old 09-18-2010, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeedDensityZ
Tell me about it. I think I may have something lined up for a descent price though.
I wound up paying 2800 after it was all said and done. I had a few upgrades on it. Then the next week my friend snatched up a new 9in from a guy strapped for cash for around 900.
Old 09-18-2010, 09:04 PM
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Ha, pisses you off don't it. I know it would me.
Old 09-18-2010, 10:13 PM
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man she sounds beast dude, sweet job!
Old 09-18-2010, 11:41 PM
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Yea I drove with out power steering for one day and even on my skinnies it SUCKED.....That is why i decided to modify mine so I could keep power steering..
Old 09-18-2010, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by MattSapp95_T/A
This engine bay is just flat out awesome! Was the engine bay repainted? The wires that run down the passenger side of the engine bay, where did you hide everything?!
Old 09-19-2010, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by SpeedDensityZ
Ha, pisses you off don't it. I know it would me.
Almost as bad as getting mess up used parts.
Old 09-19-2010, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by grn95t/a
man she sounds beast dude, sweet job!
Thanks man, I thought it sounded pretty good too. I wonder if there is some power to be had by going to a true dual setup? I just love the clearance I have now.


As for Mattsapp95_T/A's engine bay, he drilled a hole and put all those wires underneath the inner fender well. The engine bay was not repainted but, we are going to do it soon.
Old 09-19-2010, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob94hawk
This engine bay is just flat out awesome! Was the engine bay repainted? The wires that run down the passenger side of the engine bay, where did you hide everything?!


Thanks a lot... Not repainted yet we are planning on doing it soon though...it really needs it....

Like Speed said you drill a 1 1'2" hole above your PCM and run your wire loom on the bottom side of your fender... Pretty easy only took 1/2 an hour...


The video sound good...You should have gotten one standing at the rear bumper I think that is where the car sounds the best....

I think I would go with a 4" Y pipe to a bullet and dump over an X pipe just for clearance issues...
Old 09-19-2010, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by SpeedDensityZ
Thanks man, I thought it sounded pretty good too. I wonder if there is some power to be had by going to a true dual setup? I just love the clearance I have now.


As for Mattsapp95_T/A's engine bay, he drilled a hole and put all those wires underneath the inner fender well. The engine bay was not repainted but, we are going to do it soon.
i was told by Lloyd there was some power to be had with a 3" xpipe and two bullets dumped. it was a PIA to fab up and get the clearence needed to not have issues with speed bumps. and now that its done i'm really glad i did it. it truly does sound awsome.










Old 09-19-2010, 12:58 PM
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Now that is a GREAT looking true dual setup... I could live with that!!

can you PM me the parts list you used?

Thanks
Matt
Old 09-19-2010, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by MattSapp95_T/A
Now that is a GREAT looking true dual setup... I could live with that!!

can you PM me the parts list you used?

Thanks
Matt
thanks matt, here ya go...


xpipe kit...http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30662...oductId=755652

4'x3" pipe...http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30611...oductId=752882

3" clamps...http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30853...ductId=1256861

dynomax bullets...http://www.jegs.com/i/Dynomax/289/24...oductId=749870

turn downs...http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30643...oductId=752880

hangers...http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30815...ductId=1130500
Old 09-19-2010, 02:03 PM
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I didn't gain anything over a hooker catback when I went with duals except weight. I actually lost 6rwhp but it was on 2 different dyno's on 2 different days, but track results backed up the dyno #'s. I'm not sure if the spiral flows were restrictive or what.
Old 09-19-2010, 03:43 PM
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Thanks for sharing all this info, f- bodies are new to me - so all the pics and info of what worked and what didn't will make my project easier to tackle.

I have a 94 Formula, all stock w. slp cold air and a loudmouth, 110,000 on the clock, and at least 60k on the opti, if the original owner didnt replace it then it has 110
Old 09-19-2010, 03:46 PM
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The true dual setup does look great!! Thanks for the heads up Speed, I know it's hard to find real life feedback sometimes and I thank you for it. Well, it's official. I just got back from Tampa with a Moser 12bolt. It has 33 spline axles, 3.73 gears, and an eaton posi. I plan on replacing the posi with a spool since the spider gears are pretty much trashed. The ring gear looks to be in excellent shape though, it only has a couple small chips in it and they are not located in the wear pattern. I got it for 900.00 which I think is a pretty good deal. I should have it done and finished for under 1150.00.




Last edited by SpeedDensityZ; 09-19-2010 at 03:59 PM.


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