LT-1 Rods. Difference in years??
LT-1 Rods. Difference in years?? is there a difference in years for lt1 rods?? I Hvae torn down two motors here lately and they have had different style rods in them. one set appears to be very smooth casting like maybe the cracked powder rods?? and the other set is rough casted like itwould have been cast rods. as far as i know they are stock sets.
Which are better??
Rod on left is from 95 and left is from 94
rod on the left is from 94 the right is from 95
Which are better??
Rod on left is from 95 and left is from 94rod on the left is from 94 the right is from 95 
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my 94 had the rods with the weight pads on them.. i was told they were forged, was also told that some people prefer the older rods over the newer powdered metal rods.
IMO, looking at the 2 rods side by side, i dont like the looks of the newer style rod because it looks to me that the rod cap wouldnt be as strong, especially if it has been ground on for balancing purposes..
i have a set of podwered metal rods also, i'm putting the older set of rods with arp rodbolts in my 355.. i'm going to sell the powder metal rods that have pioneer rodbolts in them.. they are fresh resized and ready for pistons, thinking of putting them on ebay or here on the for sale section...
IMO, looking at the 2 rods side by side, i dont like the looks of the newer style rod because it looks to me that the rod cap wouldnt be as strong, especially if it has been ground on for balancing purposes..
i have a set of podwered metal rods also, i'm putting the older set of rods with arp rodbolts in my 355.. i'm going to sell the powder metal rods that have pioneer rodbolts in them.. they are fresh resized and ready for pistons, thinking of putting them on ebay or here on the for sale section...
Last edited by brucer; Aug 31, 2010 at 10:55 PM.
Sweet. Thanks for the input. I think. I will have the rods changed to the older style. That set I had on the shelf and they have already been resized. The ones on the pistons spun a few bearings....go figure.
The PM rods are as strong or stronger, but older machine shops don't like them because they are harder to recondition and when they let go they normally do so by exiting the block. The older Pink rods would bend before the would break.
The PM rods didn't have balancing tabs to grind off because they are all very similar in weight due to the way that they are made.
The PM rods didn't have balancing tabs to grind off because they are all very similar in weight due to the way that they are made.
Last edited by My95Z; Aug 31, 2010 at 10:18 PM.
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From: Little Rock, AR
LT-1 is the old school SBC 350. An LT1 is the modern era reverse flow gen II. I believe that is what is trying to be said. The PM rods are stronger, but more brittle (like anything PM).
Exactly ^
If I said "LS1 rods" everyone wouldn't just assume I was talking about LT1 because this is the LT1 LT4 section...
LT-1 and LT1 are 2 completely different engines.
Not being a smartass, just clarifying. If you were in fact asking about LT-1 rods, all the info given her would have been incorrect.
If I said "LS1 rods" everyone wouldn't just assume I was talking about LT1 because this is the LT1 LT4 section...
LT-1 and LT1 are 2 completely different engines.
Not being a smartass, just clarifying. If you were in fact asking about LT-1 rods, all the info given her would have been incorrect.
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thats what i was told.. the guy that resized both sets of rods told me that if the powder metal rods get ground on and any abnormal heat is built up they basicly crystallize...
i have machined powder metal in a machine shop i use to work at, and the material i was working with would crystallize if you ran the speeds and feeds to fast, tapping it was a pain in the **** it would break the sides out of the holes if you tapped it to fast, the material did not take stress very well at all.. it and mallory were some of the funkiest stuff i ever machined, titanium wasnt to fun but not as bad as the mallory and powdered metal.. well i guess mallory is actually a powdered metal when i think about it..
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It's always best to be precise and accurate when posting. That avoids a lot of confusion and the need for follow-up posts in an attempt to explain away the inaccuracy or, worse still, requiring the reader to "assume" what the poster meant.
One member posted the best plug gap is .35" then someone else "corrected" him and posted the best plug gap is .50".
Jake
One member posted the best plug gap is .35" then someone else "corrected" him and posted the best plug gap is .50".
Jake