IM Thinking about a 800+HP LT1 turbo build
09-25-2010, 10:26 AM
#86
[QUOTE=Fastbird93;13902712]I hope you have DEEP pockets. VERY DEEP pockets. I'm finishing up my turbo build now and have eclipsed the $25K mark for this project. For the kind of power you're saying you want, you're going to need aftermarket everything and quality parts everywhere if you want it to last. And I don't mean just upgrading to forged eagle or scat crank and rods. I'm talking names like Callies, Lunati, Oliver, ect. You might get away with lower end stuff, but I'd highly question any longevity.
What he says^^, When I first started my supercharger build, I had $36,000 in receipts, I then switched over to a turbo build and am in over $12.000 now and not finished, But I do have Callies, Ross, Oliver ect components... In hind sight of course, I could of bought a crate LS7 motor, changed out heads and cam and made good power N/A, though my LT made 648 RWHP on pump @ 12lbs and 722 RWHP @ 14lbs with the fast gas..
What he says^^, When I first started my supercharger build, I had $36,000 in receipts, I then switched over to a turbo build and am in over $12.000 now and not finished, But I do have Callies, Ross, Oliver ect components... In hind sight of course, I could of bought a crate LS7 motor, changed out heads and cam and made good power N/A, though my LT made 648 RWHP on pump @ 12lbs and 722 RWHP @ 14lbs with the fast gas..
09-25-2010, 11:24 AM
#87
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I have had my car since new in 96 it has seen many different setups .the supercharged setup that ran in the 8's had approx.50k into it to run the number it did. This is a complete setup chassis/suspension/electronics/powertrain. Since my change over to the TwinTurbo setup the chassis /suspension has remained the same but everything else has changed trans/electronics/intercooling/and all associated turbo parts.This has cost close to another 45k with a complete new engine to support the goals of the build ,looking for 1300-1500 rwhp. Forced Induction is NOT very cost friendly there is so much more to it then just adding a turbo, the entire rest of the car must be up to task.
09-25-2010, 05:06 PM
#89
09-25-2010, 06:50 PM
#90
Ok, OP, here's some prices that I can break down for you:
Rods -- for a good billet rod, figure in the $1000-1200 range.
Crank -- figure the $750 range
Custom pistons for YOUR application -- my Diamonds were $650
*Note -- when selecting components, I'd highly recommend doing a 5.7" rod because it will put the wrist pin farther down on the piston leaving a stronger unit than if you went long rod and pushed the pin up towards the piston face.
Heads -- well ported aftermarket heads are a must. Trick Flows (either their 23* or their new 21* would work) or AFR's......
Manifold -- if you can find an LT4, great, have the porter do that too. A single plane conversion is also an option.
Camshaft -- your choice. Doesn't need to be huge for a turbo, but talk to whomever is speccing out your motor as they can usually put you where you want.
Computer -- Stock ain't going to cut it. Figure a $2000 budget for this item.
Fuel System -- with injectors and a full -AN setup with twins in tank, you're looking at $1500 easy.
Figure about $1500-2000 for the turbo depending on what you get
The LT1 Boost hot parts for a turbo setup are about $2000 IIRC.
Wastegate and BOV -- probably another $550-600
Intercooler and cold side piping -- Approx $300 if you DIY
Don't forget about your suspension, gauges, and every little thing along the way.
Rods -- for a good billet rod, figure in the $1000-1200 range.
Crank -- figure the $750 range
Custom pistons for YOUR application -- my Diamonds were $650
*Note -- when selecting components, I'd highly recommend doing a 5.7" rod because it will put the wrist pin farther down on the piston leaving a stronger unit than if you went long rod and pushed the pin up towards the piston face.
Heads -- well ported aftermarket heads are a must. Trick Flows (either their 23* or their new 21* would work) or AFR's......
Manifold -- if you can find an LT4, great, have the porter do that too. A single plane conversion is also an option.
Camshaft -- your choice. Doesn't need to be huge for a turbo, but talk to whomever is speccing out your motor as they can usually put you where you want.
Computer -- Stock ain't going to cut it. Figure a $2000 budget for this item.
Fuel System -- with injectors and a full -AN setup with twins in tank, you're looking at $1500 easy.
Figure about $1500-2000 for the turbo depending on what you get
The LT1 Boost hot parts for a turbo setup are about $2000 IIRC.
Wastegate and BOV -- probably another $550-600
Intercooler and cold side piping -- Approx $300 if you DIY
Don't forget about your suspension, gauges, and every little thing along the way.
Sean, pretty much spot on w/ the list. Only area I'd disagree on is the heads having to be ported. Turbo's do not care one way or the other, now if it was SC application, then yeah, ported a must because airflow is critical on the exhaust exiting the motor the quickest smoothest way possible.
09-26-2010, 07:55 AM
#92
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Sean, pretty much spot on w/ the list. Only area I'd disagree on is the heads having to be ported. Turbo's do not care one way or the other, now if it was SC application, then yeah, ported a must because airflow is critical on the exhaust exiting the motor the quickest smoothest way possible.
Heads should be ported. Boost is boost, nothing more than a measure of restriction. Turbos just get their power from a different source, yet deliver it to the same place. The more headflow you have, the more power you will make whether it means NA, turbo, SC, nitrous. You might make 600rwhp @12psi on stock heads, but make the same power on ported heads @9psi. More cfm means more power PERIOD. SC or turbo, it makes no difference what-so-ever. Exhaust is just as critical on a turbo car also. Just because it has backpressure, that doesn't mean its not moving really fast, its just pressurized. Same concept yet again, more flow, the more it will support. Exhaust makes a difference in how fast it spools also, hence why my intake duration is 212 and exhaust is 226. Good luck getting 800rwhp out of stock heads without running a ton of boost. I think I'll get some ported AFRs and crack off 800rwhp at about half the boost it would take to make stock un-ported castings. Not to mention the down low out of boost power you'll get. That 88mm Garrett doesn't hit even 1psi until 4200rpm.
09-26-2010, 07:58 AM
#93
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Ok, OP, here's some prices that I can break down for you:
Rods -- for a good billet rod, figure in the $1000-1200 range.
Crank -- figure the $750 range
Custom pistons for YOUR application -- my Diamonds were $650
*Note -- when selecting components, I'd highly recommend doing a 5.7" rod because it will put the wrist pin farther down on the piston leaving a stronger unit than if you went long rod and pushed the pin up towards the piston face.
Heads -- well ported aftermarket heads are a must. Trick Flows (either their 23* or their new 21* would work) or AFR's......
Manifold -- if you can find an LT4, great, have the porter do that too. A single plane conversion is also an option.
Camshaft -- your choice. Doesn't need to be huge for a turbo, but talk to whomever is speccing out your motor as they can usually put you where you want.
Computer -- Stock ain't going to cut it. Figure a $2000 budget for this item.
Fuel System -- with injectors and a full -AN setup with twins in tank, you're looking at $1500 easy.
Figure about $1500-2000 for the turbo depending on what you get
The LT1 Boost hot parts for a turbo setup are about $2000 IIRC.
Wastegate and BOV -- probably another $550-600
Intercooler and cold side piping -- Approx $300 if you DIY
Don't forget about your suspension, gauges, and every little thing along the way.
Rods -- for a good billet rod, figure in the $1000-1200 range.
Crank -- figure the $750 range
Custom pistons for YOUR application -- my Diamonds were $650
*Note -- when selecting components, I'd highly recommend doing a 5.7" rod because it will put the wrist pin farther down on the piston leaving a stronger unit than if you went long rod and pushed the pin up towards the piston face.
Heads -- well ported aftermarket heads are a must. Trick Flows (either their 23* or their new 21* would work) or AFR's......
Manifold -- if you can find an LT4, great, have the porter do that too. A single plane conversion is also an option.
Camshaft -- your choice. Doesn't need to be huge for a turbo, but talk to whomever is speccing out your motor as they can usually put you where you want.
Computer -- Stock ain't going to cut it. Figure a $2000 budget for this item.
Fuel System -- with injectors and a full -AN setup with twins in tank, you're looking at $1500 easy.
Figure about $1500-2000 for the turbo depending on what you get
The LT1 Boost hot parts for a turbo setup are about $2000 IIRC.
Wastegate and BOV -- probably another $550-600
Intercooler and cold side piping -- Approx $300 if you DIY
Don't forget about your suspension, gauges, and every little thing along the way.
09-26-2010, 09:23 AM
#95
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Sean, pretty much spot on w/ the list. Only area I'd disagree on is the heads having to be ported. Turbo's do not care one way or the other, now if it was SC application, then yeah, ported a must because airflow is critical on the exhaust exiting the motor the quickest smoothest way possible.
Here is my current setup...
09-26-2010, 10:16 AM
#96
Silas, I tihnk this is the first time I'm going to disagree with you, that's on the ported head thing. They most definitely should be ported. Boost = restriction. Ported heads = lower "seen" boost but more air movement which = more power and easier on the motor because you're not trying to force the air in as hard.
09-26-2010, 12:09 PM
#98
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I made 670 thru a th400 and a s60, with ported stock heads, bone stock intake, opti, stock comp, pump gas, and a 600$ turbo and home built hot and cold parts!
So if you can fabricate, it will help. I'd build a solid short block and not worry bout heads yet. Cause as posted turbos don't need big heads. You can stick with the stock comp if you have a good tuner near you. Moehorsepower tunes mine and if ur close enough he is ur man! Although I am switching some things up right now, I'll b looking for 900 or so.
So if you can fabricate, it will help. I'd build a solid short block and not worry bout heads yet. Cause as posted turbos don't need big heads. You can stick with the stock comp if you have a good tuner near you. Moehorsepower tunes mine and if ur close enough he is ur man! Although I am switching some things up right now, I'll b looking for 900 or so.
