I broke my timing chain..
11-18-2010, 01:25 PM
#21
I went with the Cloyes "true roller" double roller timing chain for my 383 rebuild. I've got the exact part number at home somewhere. The kit cost like $80 or $90 bucks if I'm not mistaken (maybe less!). I had always planned to go with the Meziere electric water pump conversion so the double roller made sense.
Have any of you guys seen timing "kits" comp cams makes for LT1's??? The prices are freakin INSANE - like $500+ for timing sets. I don't care what they are made of, the costs are just outrageous. I think one of their selling points is that its a double roller chain engineering to work with/retain the cam driven water pump feature (I think). Otherwise who the hell would pay that much...
What does an "LT4 extreme duty" set go for? That's a few bills itself isn't it?
Anyone thinking of doing an electric water pump conversion should consider an old school (SBC) double roller setup.
Have any of you guys seen timing "kits" comp cams makes for LT1's??? The prices are freakin INSANE - like $500+ for timing sets. I don't care what they are made of, the costs are just outrageous. I think one of their selling points is that its a double roller chain engineering to work with/retain the cam driven water pump feature (I think). Otherwise who the hell would pay that much...
What does an "LT4 extreme duty" set go for? That's a few bills itself isn't it?
Anyone thinking of doing an electric water pump conversion should consider an old school (SBC) double roller setup.
The LT4 ED set goes for $280. For that price, you could do a double roller and an EWP and end up with a STRONGER chain and 10+ extra HP.
11-18-2010, 06:19 PM
#22
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That is interesting. We have never had a customer report a stock timing set failure, and actually recommend them because of how reliable they've been with our setups. It would be worth the time to try and locate the root cause of the failure, be it bind, lack of p2v, etc. to keep this from happening in the future.
Anticipate requiring both replacement valves and head machine work. It is unfortunate, but it is an opportunity to do something w/ the head if you're so inclined. Good luck!
Anticipate requiring both replacement valves and head machine work. It is unfortunate, but it is an opportunity to do something w/ the head if you're so inclined. Good luck!
11-18-2010, 09:49 PM
#28
Now would be a great time to ditch the stock pump for an electric especially with your setup. I have the Rollmaster double roller #SD1090 and it weighs almost 1 pound less than the stock timing chain. There is zero slack on this chain.
11-19-2010, 08:32 AM
#31
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The heads should come off. If there is unseen damage to pistons and/or valves they will eventually burn up and more problems will need to be remedied and paid for.
It's happened. A friend of mine with a '97 Z28 slammed on his brakes w/out the use of the clutch and broke his timing chain. He was going maybe 40mph when it happened. Of course this really doesn't relate to the present problem...
It's happened. A friend of mine with a '97 Z28 slammed on his brakes w/out the use of the clutch and broke his timing chain. He was going maybe 40mph when it happened. Of course this really doesn't relate to the present problem...
11-19-2010, 03:23 PM
#32
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The motor has over 1k miles on. So if it was p2v or somthinh in that nature wouldnt have happen earlier. Ive turned this motor 6700 pms bunch of times. Mayb it was just a bad chain.. I will pull the heads and look everything over.. Thanks for all the input guys.
11-19-2010, 08:10 PM
#33
I run the stock GM timing set on my motor...Never had any issues...When I swapped cams in 2005 I just replaced it with a new GM stock replacement just because I had it apart already. For a stock piece it looks pretty durable and has been for me...And I'm definitely not babying my stuff.
--Alan
--Alan
11-20-2010, 04:08 PM
#34
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When mine broke I was barely rolling, revved it a little and dumped the clutch and it just clunked and died. I thought it was the driveshaft or something. Mine was a lunati piece as well, atleast thats what i was told. So far I just have one head off and the count is 1 bent valve and 3 timing gear teeth. Good Luck!
Edit: My build was only about 1k old as well
Edit: My build was only about 1k old as well
Last edited by ebeard; 11-20-2010 at 04:15 PM.
11-20-2010, 11:33 PM
#37
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sorry to hear bout it! if you want to convert i have everything for sale! cover, chain etc... just no opti. very low miles on the chain, it is of course a double roller. cover is clearanced for EWP.
taner
taner
11-22-2010, 07:53 AM
#38
If you are running a 21deg head on a 23deg piston, you need to carefully check clearances, radial as well. We did a good bit of mockup to maximize available p2v over the shelf offering from tfs on our 21deg casting based heads.
As previously posted, we have never had issues with the GM OEM timing set. What you get when you buy an auto zone stock replacement, I don't know. The GM part is only $125 brand new, so there is no real savings to be had by running a cheaper part.
Good luck!
11-22-2010, 08:24 AM
#39
Not to hijack your thread OP, but on the topic of PTV clearance,
What is the best way to check PTV clearance? I'll be assembling my 355 in the next few months with my AI Cam and want to cover all my bases. I've always heard to assemble the top end with some soft clay on the piston valve relief and rotate the engine slowly, disassemble and check. Is this correct?
What is the best way to check PTV clearance? I'll be assembling my 355 in the next few months with my AI Cam and want to cover all my bases. I've always heard to assemble the top end with some soft clay on the piston valve relief and rotate the engine slowly, disassemble and check. Is this correct?
11-22-2010, 02:40 PM
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There are several possible root causes. On p2v, that is why we are so adamant on performing QC, and having you guys check p2v at a minimum during installation. Common grinders are inconsistent enough to create issues, so installing unknown grinds and then not taking the time to check critical clearances can be a risky proposition. While I'm certainly not saying p2v is your issue, it is something that you omit at your own peril. Regarding how long it ran, most would be shocked at how long this stuff will last even when it has issues from the beginning.
If you are running a 21deg head on a 23deg piston, you need to carefully check clearances, radial as well. We did a good bit of mockup to maximize available p2v over the shelf offering from tfs on our 21deg casting based heads.
As previously posted, we have never had issues with the GM OEM timing set. What you get when you buy an auto zone stock replacement, I don't know. The GM part is only $125 brand new, so there is no real savings to be had by running a cheaper part.
Good luck!
If you are running a 21deg head on a 23deg piston, you need to carefully check clearances, radial as well. We did a good bit of mockup to maximize available p2v over the shelf offering from tfs on our 21deg casting based heads.
As previously posted, we have never had issues with the GM OEM timing set. What you get when you buy an auto zone stock replacement, I don't know. The GM part is only $125 brand new, so there is no real savings to be had by running a cheaper part.
Good luck!