(All from Summit)

LT4 Knock Module- 75.95

ARP Stainless Steel Header Bolts- 18.95

FelPro Exhaust Header Gaskets- 33.99

2 Moroso Spiral flow Mufflers- 193.90

Comes out to 322.79 with S&H

I have a Summit X Pipe sitting in a box (I'm STILL not sure if I should run with True Duals or X Pipe) and I Plan on Getting sometime this week (As a present to myself) the Pacesetter Ceramic Coated and ORY pipe from Texas-Speed for 520.00, and Muffler shop told me 250 to fabricate and set everything up so all together that comes out to.................... 1092.79? that is ALOT of Overtime. haha... all for the love of the car Am I missing anything? and any advice on to get things cheaper would be nice.

 

double post

 

Maybe a electric cutout or two!?

 

So are you planning on running an X or Y pipe setup? And what are your power goals for the car?

 

I'm still not sure... I'm trying to figure out the science between the 2 lol I'm not sure yet, as far as power goals..... Full bolt ons, little things here and there, and no internals for another year or 2. Just wanna enjoy it to it's fullest with bolt ons

 

I would opt for the X unless you like alot of exhaust popping in decell and plus you already have it so use it. Might want to look into getting some high heat shielding or wire boots to protect against burnt wires.

 

I think I'll be able to do that after, its a good chunk of change with changing everything out. lol I'm sort of happy with that price

 

Save the 75 on the LT4 KM and put to a tune.

 

Is a true dual setup heavier then a catback system?

 

True duals and X pipe are the same thing, just a different setup, you can also get an H pipe and it will still be true duals.

I don't understand why you are paying for the y pipe if your going duals, you could save some money there. My new setup will end up costing me about $900 and thats for stainless headers, flowmaster D merge X pipe, stainless mufflers (not telling brand ), and 2 3" mandrel bend kits. The setup will go over the axle and have hidden 3" tail pipes, yes it will be heavier than a catback, but the sound is worth the extra 20-40 #s IMHO

And don't do cutouts :puke: straight pipe exhaust sounds like crap, might as well be an old farm truck then with a rotted off exhaust. Sorry I'm not a fan of cutouts, and the small gains that people are getting out of them aren't worth the added cost and a horrible sounding exhaust. Again just my honest opinion

Good luck with the setup. I'll have pics of mine closer to spring, my car currently has no suspension under it

 

Lots of times people buy cutouts for the wrong reasons...i.e., thinking it will make their car sound meaner, when in actuality it makes them sound annoying. But the performance gains that they can provide are WELL WORTH the cost - one of the best HP/$ mods you can have.

I'll agree that they don't sound too good on a STOCK car, but for a camm'd+ car they can change the whole dynamic of the car and sound downright mean. And gains of .1 or .2 in the 1/4 are nice too.

What I can't stand are those stock cars with cutouts right after the y-pipe who drive around with it open ALL THE TIME. Admittedly when I was young I did that, so now I have an e-cutout for the track and track only. And sometimes when some hoopty pulls up next to me at a light.

And alexcoreas, true duals are FAR heavier than a catback system. speeddemon said his weighed in at something like 80#s.

 

I'm opting for quiet TDs. I've exhausted my y pipe setup and the only way I could make it quieter is by getting a new catback. I will very rarely see the track so weight isn't a huge concern. OP if you have the x already it makes no sense to go with a y pipe.

 

Yeah I see what ya'll are saying....but it comes with the headers anyway.. I could save money by just buying the headers separate....... hmmm.. good point.

 

@RAMAIR Wow that's a lot of weight!! What do you run?

 

I run LPPs and their y-pipe mated to a Hooker catback with an electric cutout on the intermediate pipe. Seems to be working so far!

 

RamAir-Not trying to start a pissing match or anything, but how about some #s comparing a catback without a cutout vs catback w/cutout vs open cutout. I just think that adding a cutout creates a turbulant spot in the exhaust and makes it not flow as well as if it wasn't there at all.

The PO of my car had a straight pipe over the axle with a cutout right after the y pipe (stock manifolds) and it sounded like **** with the cutout closed or open. The first thing I did was hack off the back half and add a bullet in the I pipe and sold the cutout. 100% better after that, then went to LTs/x pipe/dumped bullets and it was amazing until I did the 6 speed then the drone pissed me off. So then I went to a true dual/x pipe/magnaflow/over the axle/2OTL tips but now I don't like the raspyness in between shifts and on downshifts when I let the motor slow the car down so I'm changing it again to 3" pipes and I'll see if that helps.

Like I said I'm not trying to argue, I know the cutout will show gains, but so will a properly setup exhaust. I refuse to ever run them again, but thats just me

 

The Felpro 1406's are < $20.

 

Make sure you also get a set of good band-aids and neosporine as you are gonna need it on your hands after the swap.

 

Get band clamps and do it yourself. Instead of paying someone to weld it. Then you can swap it out easier if you néed to.

 

Yeah I should be learning my own car that way to be honest. and im trying to learn more and more but when it comes to fabricating, i don't have the tools or really the time. but the guy im taking it to, has done some good set ups. he knows his ****, im sure his muffler guy does too, as far as the tune, im gonna see how she performs without the tune for a little while, i wanna see what she's gonna run at the track, and whenever I get the money I'll take it up to Henderson Performance. he said he'd does his dyno tunes at $450. But I hear he's one of the best in Tx for LT1's.