LT1 crank key
#1
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LT1 crank key
Howdy guys!
Well, I've converted my LT1 over to a carburatted setup, and ditched the optispark in the process of doing so. Now I'm relying on a dizi, the old timey timing light, a keyed harmonic balancer with timing marks, and a crank key to ensure my LT1 is timed appropiately.
Now, the harmonic balancer that I have is a Professional Products, Powerforce piece, and it already has a slot for a crank key, which is supplied with the balancer.
The problem is, it appears the key is nowhere near the correct shape to fit nice and snug in the LT1 crank snout where the mysterious key slot awaits a nice fitting crank key to be installed.
Well, due to my stubborness.. I've grinded and filed that supplied crank key to high hell and it appears that what ever shape it needs to be to fit nicely is a bit hard to achieve with a hand file, grinder, and high grit sand paper.
So, I brainstormed for a moment and I came up with a potential solution to the problem at hand.. Is there any way I can get a hold of a pre-machined crank key that will slide down into that little slot on the LT1 crank snout?
I know quite a few people have ditched the opti and went with a dizi on the old LT1.. So what did they do when they run into this little problem?
Thanks a bunch, Josh.
Well, I've converted my LT1 over to a carburatted setup, and ditched the optispark in the process of doing so. Now I'm relying on a dizi, the old timey timing light, a keyed harmonic balancer with timing marks, and a crank key to ensure my LT1 is timed appropiately.
Now, the harmonic balancer that I have is a Professional Products, Powerforce piece, and it already has a slot for a crank key, which is supplied with the balancer.
The problem is, it appears the key is nowhere near the correct shape to fit nice and snug in the LT1 crank snout where the mysterious key slot awaits a nice fitting crank key to be installed.
Well, due to my stubborness.. I've grinded and filed that supplied crank key to high hell and it appears that what ever shape it needs to be to fit nicely is a bit hard to achieve with a hand file, grinder, and high grit sand paper.
So, I brainstormed for a moment and I came up with a potential solution to the problem at hand.. Is there any way I can get a hold of a pre-machined crank key that will slide down into that little slot on the LT1 crank snout?
I know quite a few people have ditched the opti and went with a dizi on the old LT1.. So what did they do when they run into this little problem?
Thanks a bunch, Josh.
#2
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i just hammerd mine on, then used the installer, then hammered, then installer,when it was on, i pulled it off, and re installed it. it wen on nice and smooth then, been running just fine for about 3 years,
but i would call proffesional products, or go see a machine shop to maybe find the right key.
but i would call proffesional products, or go see a machine shop to maybe find the right key.
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Before WalMart ran all of the local stores out of business, I had an "old fashioned" hardware store in my area that stocked ALL SORTS of neat stuff. In their nuts and bolts department, they had those pull out display shelves of nuts, bolts, screws, washers, and other assorted "things". One of those "other things" was a drawer with assorted sizes of keys. I bought several of them, and found the closest to the right size, then "filed to fit".....
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i just hammerd mine on, then used the installer, then hammered, then installer,when it was on, i pulled it off, and re installed it. it wen on nice and smooth then, been running just fine for about 3 years,
but i would call proffesional products, or go see a machine shop to maybe find the right key.
but i would call proffesional products, or go see a machine shop to maybe find the right key.
If it fits nice and snug and the balancer slides on over it without anything binding or being forced then all should be well. I mean all I'm trying to do is eliminate the twisting tendency of the balancer, so it shouldn't be this much of a biotch to do..
By the way, I've seen the video on youtube of your Nova a while back, and I must say, your car is beautifully done and actually inspired me a bit to convert mine over and work with the carbed setup.
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Before WalMart ran all of the local stores out of business, I had an "old fashioned" hardware store in my area that stocked ALL SORTS of neat stuff. In their nuts and bolts department, they had those pull out display shelves of nuts, bolts, screws, washers, and other assorted "things". One of those "other things" was a drawer with assorted sizes of keys. I bought several of them, and found the closest to the right size, then "filed to fit".....
Anyways, a friend of mine recommended I look through an assortment of woodruff keys, which I found a lot of at Lowes, but it looks like it needs some tweaking for it to fit.
Maybe I ought to do what you did and grab a whole hand full.
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It's the GMPP intake manifold. It's specially made to fit the LT1.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-24502592/
I originally wanted to to find a dirt cheap victor style intake and re-drill the flange to fit the LT1 but I didn't feel confident enough using a hand drill and honestly didn't want to go through the hassle..
The GMPP piece is pretty and convenient, but a little pricey, but literally bolts right on. It also has a hole in the back for a distributor, and if you don't want a dizi it comes with a nice little plug for the hole.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-24502592/
I originally wanted to to find a dirt cheap victor style intake and re-drill the flange to fit the LT1 but I didn't feel confident enough using a hand drill and honestly didn't want to go through the hassle..
The GMPP piece is pretty and convenient, but a little pricey, but literally bolts right on. It also has a hole in the back for a distributor, and if you don't want a dizi it comes with a nice little plug for the hole.
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This key is specifically for the LT1? If so you just helped me out tremendously and saved me the headache and worry of man-handling the situation..
I'll definitely check it out as soon as possible.
Thank you all for the feedback, it's gravely appreciated.
I'll definitely check it out as soon as possible.
Thank you all for the feedback, it's gravely appreciated.
#10
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Hmmm, I could definitely give that a try. I see no problem in forging your own key as long as everything goes together somewhat smoothly. If I'm not mistaken, it looks like the key is supposed to be in the shape of a half crescent, or kinda like the shape of most fishing boats. Most I've seen are just a crescent.
If it fits nice and snug and the balancer slides on over it without anything binding or being forced then all should be well. I mean all I'm trying to do is eliminate the twisting tendency of the balancer, so it shouldn't be this much of a biotch to do..
By the way, I've seen the video on youtube of your Nova a while back, and I must say, your car is beautifully done and actually inspired me a bit to convert mine over and work with the carbed setup.
If it fits nice and snug and the balancer slides on over it without anything binding or being forced then all should be well. I mean all I'm trying to do is eliminate the twisting tendency of the balancer, so it shouldn't be this much of a biotch to do..
By the way, I've seen the video on youtube of your Nova a while back, and I must say, your car is beautifully done and actually inspired me a bit to convert mine over and work with the carbed setup.
oh well thanks for the kudo's, maybe one day ill have a track vid, but as far as your hub and key go, you can MAKE it fit, or go buy a couple different keys, or call PP, i have a proffessional products balancer too. same issue.