Oil pump drive mods...
#1
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From: Spokane, Wa
Oil pump drive mods...
Who was selling those steel reinforcement plates for the top of the oil pump drive? I was thinking of getting a mallory dummy distributor drive, but I'd have to put an everwear gear on it anyways, so it'd be almost 150 bucks. Lunati sells a .427 everwear gear so now I'm thinking of just modding the factory piece. Who's BTDT? I don't feel like forking out the dough for herron's billet replacement...
#3
More Performance was the shop that sold them, but they went out of business.
FFB had one for sale that I PMed him about, since I am looking for one too, but he did not respond.
I don't feel like spending all that for the herron piece either, so may just make up something to put over the top tab and get a slightly taller bolt.
FFB had one for sale that I PMed him about, since I am looking for one too, but he did not respond.
I don't feel like spending all that for the herron piece either, so may just make up something to put over the top tab and get a slightly taller bolt.
#4
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From: Spokane, Wa
it would be easy to make.... how thick you think would be adequate, like 12ga? I have my cam sensor stuff at the waterjet place right now, if someone could give me some basic dimensions or engineering drawing of the drive I'll make a cad file for getting it cut.
#5
I looked for one of the old More Performance caps but couldn't find one so I bought the Herron billet oilpump drive housing and it was about $150 then I spent another $100 for the Comp Cams composite gear. To me it was cheap insurance for the money I spent building my new all forged bottom end, I would just be devastated if the stupid factory one broke and destroyed my new engine!
Hey didn't I see in another post where you're changing your intake, if so just get a Mallory, MSD etc oilpump drive plug and a composite drive gear and be done with it, I've never seen an old school sbc break a distributor.
Hey didn't I see in another post where you're changing your intake, if so just get a Mallory, MSD etc oilpump drive plug and a composite drive gear and be done with it, I've never seen an old school sbc break a distributor.
#6
Man you've sure changed your tune since yesterday. You were talking about a $2500 budget for a rearend to be a "kids" budget, and now you don't want to fork over a measly $150 for a nice billet part that drives the life-blood of your (no-doubt) high dollar engine???
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#8
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From: Spokane, Wa
The factory piece works fine for free. I don't feel like spending 150+ dollars on pretty billet aluminum to replace something that's already adequate. I guess it was that budget busting 9" that I built, used up all my expendable funds. Some things are worth spending money on, some aren't. Clearly we can all agree on that...
#11
The factory piece works fine for free. I don't feel like spending 150+ dollars on pretty billet aluminum to replace something that's already adequate. I guess it was that budget busting 9" that I built, used up all my expendable funds. Some things are worth spending money on, some aren't. Clearly we can all agree on that...
However, I gotta ask: If the factory drive is so adequate, why are you looking to improve it? If the answer is piece of mind, $150 is still a small price to pay considering how much is already invested in a motor such as yours.
FWIW, I'm not just trying to push you towards buying the Herron part. I still use the factory drive myself. Never had and issue with it.
#12
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From: Spokane, Wa
yea we're just having a little fun the factory design is adequate, I just don't want to lose my admittedly expensive motor over a 1/4" of crack prone composite. I dug up a spare oil pump drive so I'll be finalizing a cad drawing today of a More Performance replacement.
On a side note, hey mike is that the lunati everwear gear? Don't know why more people don't throw those on there, they're like 43 bucks.
On a side note, hey mike is that the lunati everwear gear? Don't know why more people don't throw those on there, they're like 43 bucks.
#13
yea we're just having a little fun the factory design is adequate, I just don't want to lose my admittedly expensive motor over a 1/4" of crack prone composite. I dug up a spare oil pump drive so I'll be finalizing a cad drawing today of a More Performance replacement.
On a side note, hey mike is that the lunati everwear gear? Don't know why more people don't throw those on there, they're like 43 bucks.
On a side note, hey mike is that the lunati everwear gear? Don't know why more people don't throw those on there, they're like 43 bucks.
#14
#16
I red locktite the bolt in, torque it to 13' and call it a day.
If I ever have to access the drive again, I might fab something up to help reinforce it because it already has a minor crack. Should no be to hard to do with some thin scrap metal and a welder.
I have even considered drilling the bolt hole out and sleeving it with a metal sleeve. The sleeve can take the brunt of the torque from the bolt and not the composite plastic.
The damn thing should have had a shouldered bolt from GM from the jump as to minimize the pressure applied to the composite plastic.
#19