Thermal Barrier Intake Gaskets
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and what color can I paint it besides WHITE to help with heat soak?
I read an article a long time ago where they painted a 5 liter intake inside and out and saw measurable gains on the dyno.
I want to do something like that, I'm thinking about some kind of high temp powder coating, or maybe ceramic coating. Maybe silver.
So many people paint them black, which is the worst color that could be on there.
I read an article a long time ago where they painted a 5 liter intake inside and out and saw measurable gains on the dyno.
I want to do something like that, I'm thinking about some kind of high temp powder coating, or maybe ceramic coating. Maybe silver.
So many people paint them black, which is the worst color that could be on there.
LT1 intake has no coolant running through it and doesn't get nearly as hot as an SBC or 5.0 setup. Add to that the fact that our heads run cooler too and I doubt you would see any measurable gains at all from thermal intake gaskets or painting it.
I would just polish it and ice it before each run
.
I would just polish it and ice it before each run
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Ive been thinking about polishing it... and I have iced it before lol.
I do recall someone do some testing and saying the dyno runs were dropping off due to heat soak in the intake. Of course that is an issue most engines will have to deal with.
Not saying this stuff is a "win or lose" mod just thought if someone had any input on the subject I could try it while the engine is apart.
I do recall someone do some testing and saying the dyno runs were dropping off due to heat soak in the intake. Of course that is an issue most engines will have to deal with.
Not saying this stuff is a "win or lose" mod just thought if someone had any input on the subject I could try it while the engine is apart.
Ive been thinking about polishing it... and I have iced it before lol.
I do recall someone do some testing and saying the dyno runs were dropping off due to heat soak in the intake. Of course that is an issue most engines will have to deal with.
Not saying this stuff is a "win or lose" mod just thought if someone had any input on the subject I could try it while the engine is apart.
I do recall someone do some testing and saying the dyno runs were dropping off due to heat soak in the intake. Of course that is an issue most engines will have to deal with.
Not saying this stuff is a "win or lose" mod just thought if someone had any input on the subject I could try it while the engine is apart.
. Not something you can really easily test to say if it helped though, because to do a true test you would have to dyno it 2 or 3 times and get the average, change the gasket, then run it back up to the same exact temp for each run another 3 times. Just the margin of error could skew results either way even if you never move the car from the rollers.
I could maybe see it helping on a dyno queen after multiple dyno runs when the car is not getting the airflow it would while moving.
More importantly though, it wont hurt anything, so why not?
I say polish the intake and coat some cheap stock intake gaskets with some thermal barrier coating instead of wasting money on specific gaskets just for a little experiment. Hell, I might do it on my build now that you bring it up just for ***** and giggles. It's already polished, full airgap, and with CF base so coating the gaskets may help it stay cooler for longer after icing. Thread Starter
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More importantly though, it wont hurt anything, so why not?
I say polish the intake and coat some cheap stock intake gaskets with some thermal barrier coating instead of wasting money on specific gaskets just for a little experiment. Hell, I might do it on my build now that you bring it up just for ***** and giggles. It's already polished, full airgap, and with CF base so coating the gaskets may help it stay cooler for longer after icing.I think we're on to something here. What would be a good thermal barrier coating. I'm no physicist. Would copper silicone do anything? Hylomar?
Only hard numbers I have read are 30*f cooler intake while cruising and 50*f cooler while idle. Whether or not that transfers to actual power is debatable, but it does show that the intake will stay cooler for longer after icing and may be worth a tenth or so at the track.
Of course they have them pre made for all sorts of ricers, but for an LT1 you would probably have to make them yourself like this guy did to his lil go-ka...I mean Honda
.http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-f...ld-gasket.html
Preliminary google search found this supplier for Phenolic sheets that would probably work. Pretty cheap too if there is no order limit like some bulk sites have. This is the one website that stood out to me.
http://www.rplastics.com/cesheet.html
The .060 sheet is just about the same thickness as a stock replacement Felpro intake gasket
Looks like a fun simple mod to tackle on a rainy day. I would probably hit the intake with an IR thermometer before and after to test the temp difference...if there is a noticeable difference in temp, it looks like you could cook up a CAD drawing and they will cut them for you
.If there is any interest I can make a prototype set and try it out on my stock shortblock build that is still using a stock LT1 intake.
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I'll test it first to see if its worth even bothering with.
Gonna trace my old FelPro onto one of the sheets and dremel it out, and use an IR thermometer to check the temp of the top and the runners first with FelPros and second with the Phenolic sheet. Out of curiousity I will also ice the intake and then see how long it takes to warm back up.
If the thermometer shows any possible benefit then I'll decide whether or not its worth it as a mod, or is just something for ricers to add to their sig lines right under air foils and tornados.
Just ordered a sheet of the .060 thickness, which should be enough for at least 2 good sets of gaskets even if I **** up a pair. If I find that its worth anything after testing, I'll give you one of the sets since you came up with the idea - just spot the shipping for a flat rate box.
I'll keep you posted by PM...just keep in mind that I work crazy hours, Daytona Bike Week is coming up soon, and its not going to be my number #1 priority so it won't be happening over night :p.
Gonna trace my old FelPro onto one of the sheets and dremel it out, and use an IR thermometer to check the temp of the top and the runners first with FelPros and second with the Phenolic sheet. Out of curiousity I will also ice the intake and then see how long it takes to warm back up.
If the thermometer shows any possible benefit then I'll decide whether or not its worth it as a mod, or is just something for ricers to add to their sig lines right under air foils and tornados
.Just ordered a sheet of the .060 thickness, which should be enough for at least 2 good sets of gaskets even if I **** up a pair. If I find that its worth anything after testing, I'll give you one of the sets since you came up with the idea - just spot the shipping for a flat rate box.
I'll keep you posted by PM...just keep in mind that I work crazy hours, Daytona Bike Week is coming up soon, and its not going to be my number #1 priority so it won't be happening over night :p.
I only mentioned polished since it will be better for icing then a coated one, but didnt get into anything more then that.
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I've always painted the bottom of my manifolds white, it's one of those old school things that's said to help. It wont hep with splash oil however, that's what that little metal shield on the bottom of the stock manifold is supposed to help with, the paint is strictly for the heat and reflecting it back away from your intake. Also, if you're going to space out your intake, watch the gap at the front and back between the intake and lifter valley. You could end up raising the intake up too much to seal with RTV.
In theory, if you polish the bottom of your intake manifold, or you smooth it out, and paint it, the oil will be less likely to hang on the bottom. same thing goes with the shield on the bottom on the intake.
Like already mentioned, in a real world situation, it will probably not be remotely noticeable, but it can't hurt.
Also, 93Z2871805, painting the bottom of the intake white will have no effect on radiant heat. Color versus temperature only works in relation to visible light. White reflects all frequencies of color in the visible light spectrum, where as black absorbs all of the light in the light spectrum. The biggest effect would be the type of coating you use rather than the color of the coating you use.
Like already mentioned, in a real world situation, it will probably not be remotely noticeable, but it can't hurt.
Also, 93Z2871805, painting the bottom of the intake white will have no effect on radiant heat. Color versus temperature only works in relation to visible light. White reflects all frequencies of color in the visible light spectrum, where as black absorbs all of the light in the light spectrum. The biggest effect would be the type of coating you use rather than the color of the coating you use.