Bent 2 Rods in my LT1 Stroker.. WHY
03-13-2011, 05:01 PM
#81
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I am about 50% done with the new motor set-up and installation and 50% on the turbo set-up as well. i just need a few things to be 100% and more free time to finish her up. I just got the new motor up and running a few day ago. I live in pinellas.
03-14-2011, 12:42 PM
#82
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Going to start putting the springs on today.. i bought a tool that alows you to swap springs with heads still on the motor.. does anyone know if i need locks or not?
03-14-2011, 01:53 PM
#84
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If you have the cylinder at TDC the valve wont fall anywhere at all, you can do each cylinder at a time and complete it 100% before moving on. If you have the air hose method your talking about and the air hse gets knocked off witch is very easy while working, then the valve WILL fall into the cylinder. with the cylinder a TDC the valve only drops down a very little bit.
03-14-2011, 03:18 PM
#86
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Not every one has an air compressor or a compressoin tester. I was just tryig to say that it alot better to bring the cylinder to TDC while swaping the springs on car, and you can set up the proper height without air connected. And i to think the OP is over his head.
03-14-2011, 07:59 PM
#88
But they should ... I didn't realize what I was missing until I installed mine.
Since then, I've plumbed the whole garage with 1/2" and 3/8" ports and filled half my box with air tools.
Things that used to take half a day now take less than an hour.
Since then, I've plumbed the whole garage with 1/2" and 3/8" ports and filled half my box with air tools.
Things that used to take half a day now take less than an hour.
03-14-2011, 08:40 PM
#89
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Got them all in.. with single cylinder at tdc valves couldent fall.. gap measured and ready to go.. going to adjust the valves tomorrow..
hopefully the pic shows up lol
hopefully the pic shows up lol
03-15-2011, 06:52 AM
#92
The way to properly check them is to make a solid lifter and run the cam through a cycle. You stick a feeler gauge between the coils at maximum lift. You can't do this with the hydraulic lifters in there because the plunger will slightly compress causing the readings to be false. FWIW when I put beehives on my current heads with the XFI cam I had to install special locks that raised the retainer up .050" to get the clearance I needed. But I am running aftermarket heads, not stock heads.
03-15-2011, 07:39 AM
#93
The way to properly check them is to make a solid lifter and run the cam through a cycle. You stick a feeler gauge between the coils at maximum lift. You can't do this with the hydraulic lifters in there because the plunger will slightly compress causing the readings to be false. FWIW when I put beehives on my current heads with the XFI cam I had to install special locks that raised the retainer up .050" to get the clearance I needed. But I am running aftermarket heads, not stock heads.
03-15-2011, 09:23 AM
#94
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You know what your right there isn't. After sitting and looking at the gen one heads and gen 2 heads last night I was misinformed. I pay someone who is supposed to know what they hell they are doing but time and time again I end up with problems. I don't understand why I have to keep learning everything there is to know about the different systems when I pay someone with good track record to know it for me. That is why I pay them right? So my apologies for being miss informative. Not being sarcastic.
03-15-2011, 01:42 PM
#96
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Yea diddent need any shims and used the stock locks, i bought the locks u guys recomended but I diddent need them...Im just gonna throw them in a drawer till I save up some money for some afr 220's.. anyone have or know anyone with a used set for sale?
03-15-2011, 01:45 PM
#97
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The 220s would be too large for a street 383, Shoot more for the 210s if youre intent on the AFRs, but the 195 comps ar extremely nice and would feed that 383 easily up to 6500 rpm.
03-15-2011, 03:39 PM
#98
Please do me a favor right now before you button everything up. Take off one of the springs that you have held down with the stock 10 degree lock. Then re-install the retainer with the correct 7 degree lock that is in the drawer. Notice how much higher up the retainer sits with the 7 degree lock? If you look at the retainer for the beehives you will see that it clearly states it needs a 7 degree lock. Just trying to save you some trouble down the road when you break a lock or 3 and send shrapnel through the motor.
03-15-2011, 04:16 PM
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Please do me a favor right now before you button everything up. Take off one of the springs that you have held down with the stock 10 degree lock. Then re-install the retainer with the correct 7 degree lock that is in the drawer. Notice how much higher up the retainer sits with the 7 degree lock? If you look at the retainer for the beehives you will see that it clearly states it needs a 7 degree lock. Just trying to save you some trouble down the road when you break a lock or 3 and send shrapnel through the motor.