Bent 2 Rods in my LT1 Stroker.. WHY
#101
LT1 and LT4 are the same. You can swap retainers between them with the LT4 being a little lighter. Both are 10 degrees.
Last edited by joelster; 03-15-2011 at 06:15 PM.
#102
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WOW That's amazing. I always thought 10* locks were only aftermarket stuff for huge spring pressures. I use them on my bbc with it's #947's. I'm very impressed by this news. Sorry about the
#103
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OK! hold on dude... Give me the actual part numbers of the parts you're running. seats, retainers, locks etc. You can get the beehives with a 7ş or 10ş retainer. You NEED to check installed height, you'll come up with about ~1.74 if you use a +.050" lock. So if you're not running a +.050 lock you'll end up down at 1.69-1.70" which would probably make those 918s coil bind.
#108
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Me too, but I haven't been around LT1's that much. I agree that I'd rather have a machined 7* than a stamped 10* any day. But I'd rather have a 10* than a 7* if all things were equal. I'm not talking about with beehives. Just with normal type springs.
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His spark plug wire is going to melt off before that happens. From the looks of the picture he posted the engine has not run that long and once it does his unprotected wires are going to start giving him problems like mine did a long time ago with long tubes. The locks and retainers will follow shortly after with a new build. You caint just hope someone knows what there doing and afterwards hope it last long. Hope this is not a joke and he checks everything the correct way.
#111
I'm trying to help the guy but when he posted this picture something didn't look right....
Even though the picture is not clear at all, if you look at the top of the retainer on the spring in cylinder #8 you can clearly see the split in the lock. They should be further down into the retainer than that. Maybe I haven't seen one in a while, but they usually settle almost flush, just a little above.
Even though the picture is not clear at all, if you look at the top of the retainer on the spring in cylinder #8 you can clearly see the split in the lock. They should be further down into the retainer than that. Maybe I haven't seen one in a while, but they usually settle almost flush, just a little above.
#112
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that could be a reflection or something it very hard to see, the front of the head part of the pic has streaks in it.
#4 intake lock looks to have a good size gap in it. now that i looked closer to number 8 it does look way to high.
#4 intake lock looks to have a good size gap in it. now that i looked closer to number 8 it does look way to high.
#113
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thats just a reflection.. got my valves adjusted and got everthing put back togather and let it run for about 30min.. only took it up to around 3 grand once or twice and just like a 1k rpm idle.. seems to be running good, every now and again it will crack through the exhast but im guessing thats because it needds tuned.. threw 19lb ford injectors in it so i diddent **** the rings up and have them never seal(36's dumping tons of gas in cylinders) might take it on a light drive to the gas stationi down the road when it stops raining to break it in some and check for leaks.. all those ppl that help'd i apreciat it and to all the other ppl being dicks they can eat ****! LoL thanks guys..
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o yea forgot to mention.. had height checked with stock locks was around 1.73.. and i have a post with my pistons the mahle thread so i dont think my valves will hit them and springs arn't binding so I should be good!
#115
Ummm……dude those are smaller than stock injectors, your definatly going to be running way too lean.
#116
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^^^^ thats what i was thinking, 24 is stock and you already have some kinda tune for those then you switch it from 36 to 19.... How do you know how much fuel is being dumped in? did you data log it? And how did you check the hieght with the stock locks? i thought the bee hives you had required 7 deg locks and the stocks are 10...???