EWP failure warning thru the tune...
EWP failure warning thru the tune... Anybody ever think of doing this?
I was forced to get an EWP and don't feel like installing a warning light.
Started thinking about warning myself through the tune.
So I came up with this:
When my coolant temp hits 220 my tune is set to:
Raise idle (in drive) 100rpm
When coolant temps hit 240 my tune is set to:
Pull 20' of timing across the board
Lower idle( in drive) to where I have to keep on the gas to keep from stalling.
I figure if that doesn't do it I deserve to overheat and blow the motor.
Any thoughts?
I was forced to get an EWP and don't feel like installing a warning light.
Started thinking about warning myself through the tune.
So I came up with this:
When my coolant temp hits 220 my tune is set to:
Raise idle (in drive) 100rpm
When coolant temps hit 240 my tune is set to:
Pull 20' of timing across the board
Lower idle( in drive) to where I have to keep on the gas to keep from stalling.
I figure if that doesn't do it I deserve to overheat and blow the motor.
Any thoughts?
sounds interesting as a controller but, what about it just killing it all together at 220?Y even let it go as far as 240? thats just to damn hott..if your anything like me i would see it getting abnormally hott way before that anyhow.. im not even running a t-stat right now here in florida and it really likes running at 160 all the time..
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,147
Likes: 62
From: Little Rock, AR
Doesn't sound like a good solution to me. Making your engine not run sounds unsafe if you need to get out of someone's way. High speed fans don't even come on until 236° stock, so hitting 240° would not be uncommon in some situations before air movement can start bringing the temp back down and is still safe for the engine. IMHO, you're overthinking.
Right now mine runs at 195' 220 can happen in traffic in AZ.
And as far as a total kill of the motor, that could potentially keep you in the middle of a freeway or a street or somewhere REALLY problematic. You could at least pull off the road with this set!
You can also just adapt it to your climate too.
And as far as a total kill of the motor, that could potentially keep you in the middle of a freeway or a street or somewhere REALLY problematic. You could at least pull off the road with this set!
You can also just adapt it to your climate too.
Why not look into wiring it off the AIR system and then if it pops a fuse or stops working it should kick the AIR code and you get an check engine light. I know it's not a dead give away but I check my gauges fairly often if I have a light on until I get home and figure out why it came on. Just an idea....
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How is THIS over thinking? Wiring up a light that only tells you when a fuse blows is over thinking IMO.
It took me all of 12 seconds to change my tune. And mine tells me when the actual problem becomes one in an obvious physical way.
And shoebox, I never said anything about immobilizing the car. And my car and cooling system and fan temp turnons aren't stock. I understand on a stock car this being a nuisance, but when mine never gets that hot it's a big red flag when it happens that I'm way over temp and need to pull over.
It took me all of 12 seconds to change my tune. And mine tells me when the actual problem becomes one in an obvious physical way.
And shoebox, I never said anything about immobilizing the car. And my car and cooling system and fan temp turnons aren't stock. I understand on a stock car this being a nuisance, but when mine never gets that hot it's a big red flag when it happens that I'm way over temp and need to pull over.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,147
Likes: 62
From: Little Rock, AR
You did say you would have to intervene to keep if from stalling, eh? Sorry, it's just an opinion. Of course, I am not a fan of EWPs on a street car, just for the fact that you need to be extra careful that you don't miss catching it when it fails and overheats. I know you are trying to come up with a solution, but I think there may still be some way better.
Wire up a Shift Light and a Buzzer to go off when it fails..so it scares the **** out of you..lol..
You can use one of the 5-pin Relays, hook it up on the circuit in a way to where if the Pump is working and pulls a load then the Relay energizes and sends the power through to the Pump. If it fails then it doesnt energize, and sends the power to the light and buzzer and makes you **** yourself.
It sounds complicated to type out, but if you know how them 5-pin Relays work you could wire it up..I could.
You can use one of the 5-pin Relays, hook it up on the circuit in a way to where if the Pump is working and pulls a load then the Relay energizes and sends the power through to the Pump. If it fails then it doesnt energize, and sends the power to the light and buzzer and makes you **** yourself.
It sounds complicated to type out, but if you know how them 5-pin Relays work you could wire it up..I could.
Well my new engine has a CSR EWP and I'm going to wire in a light and warning buzzer plus I'm just going to buy another one and keep it in the car in case the current one dies. I can do a roadside swap then send the bad one back to CSR for a rebuild and keep it in the car as a spare.
You did say you would have to intervene to keep if from stalling, eh? Sorry, it's just an opinion. Of course, I am not a fan of EWPs on a street car, just for the fact that you need to be extra careful that you don't miss catching it when it fails and overheats. I know you are trying to come up with a solution, but I think there may still be some way better.
I understand what you are going for, but it seems like having a light or buzzer go off is a much simpler way of getting the job done.
Hell, I bet someone could make money off packaging a simple circuit that runs off the CTS and triggers a red LED and piezo buzzer.
That solution would work for both EWP and mechanical WP owners.
Hell, I bet someone could make money off packaging a simple circuit that runs off the CTS and triggers a red LED and piezo buzzer.
That solution would work for both EWP and mechanical WP owners.
I understand what you are going for, but it seems like having a light or buzzer go off is a much simpler way of getting the job done.
Hell, I bet someone could make money off packaging a simple circuit that runs off the CTS and triggers a red LED and piezo buzzer.
That solution would work for both EWP and mechanical WP owners.
Hell, I bet someone could make money off packaging a simple circuit that runs off the CTS and triggers a red LED and piezo buzzer.
That solution would work for both EWP and mechanical WP owners.
Running the light and associated wiring and making the harness takes more than twelve seconds of adjusting a tune that I already needed to upload to the car.
The warning light only helps if the fuse blows. The timing pull happens when the car gets hotter than it should ever be.
When I disconnected the AIR pump on my 93 without doing anything else it set the light off. I used this to wire it. Now the theory behind it is if the fuse blows or the pump stops working it will set off the engine light. Now granted this is OBD I that has not had the AIR system deleted through the PCM/ECM.