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Removing Rear Wheel Studs?
Removing Rear Wheel Studs? What do I have to remove to be able to remove the rear wheel studs? They are all loose, but there is no way they are going out the back without something being removed.
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, NY
TECH Resident
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 866
Likes: 0
From: Cartersville, Georgia
That appears to be your TC (traction control) sprocket ... 3-channel (ABS only) is on the carrier with the sensor in the pumpkin and a 4-channel (ABS & TC) sprocket is on each axle end with a sensor in each backing plate. At least, that is how it is in the 98-02's. Since yours is a '93 (??), it may be set up different, but it still looks like a TC and/or ABS sprocket.
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TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, NY
Unbolt pumpkin cover.
Remove small bolt on the side of carrier.
Knock out huge pin thing.
Remove axle clips with magnetic tool.
Pull out axles.
Remove and reinstall studs like a baws.
Refill with 1 bottle of GM limited slip additive and 2ish quarts of 75W90 anything.
This thread has nothing to do with gear swaps, but I think this link will help you if you've never taken apart a 10-bolt diff.
http://www.keliente.com/gears.htm
Remove small bolt on the side of carrier.
Knock out huge pin thing.
Remove axle clips with magnetic tool.
Pull out axles.
Remove and reinstall studs like a baws.
Refill with 1 bottle of GM limited slip additive and 2ish quarts of 75W90 anything.
This thread has nothing to do with gear swaps, but I think this link will help you if you've never taken apart a 10-bolt diff.
http://www.keliente.com/gears.htm
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if there like my 97s then taking the axles out doesnt help, the ring will still be pressed on the axle, you still will need to knock the reluctor ring off the axle so you can get the studs in and out.
So basically I'll have to take the car to a machine shop to have the ring removed and pressed back on?
Here's a thread about removing wheel studs with 4 channel ABS.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...rear-lugs.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...rear-lugs.html
Unbolt pumpkin cover.
Remove small bolt on the side of carrier.
Knock out huge pin thing.
Remove axle clips with magnetic tool.
Pull out axles.
Remove and reinstall studs like a baws.
Refill with 1 bottle of GM limited slip additive and 2ish quarts of 75W90 anything.
This thread has nothing to do with gear swaps, but I think this link will help you if you've never taken apart a 10-bolt diff.
http://www.keliente.com/gears.htm
Remove small bolt on the side of carrier.
Knock out huge pin thing.
Remove axle clips with magnetic tool.
Pull out axles.
Remove and reinstall studs like a baws.
Refill with 1 bottle of GM limited slip additive and 2ish quarts of 75W90 anything.
This thread has nothing to do with gear swaps, but I think this link will help you if you've never taken apart a 10-bolt diff.
http://www.keliente.com/gears.htm
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 313
Likes: 5
From: Eastern PA
I believe its for the ABS, I could be wrong though.
Yes. 
Wheel speed sensors/reluctor rings are the source of the signals that feed both sets of calculations. Throttle position makes the difference... assuming you're not braking and accelerating at the same time. If you're running a line lock, obviously you'll be changing to a 3 channel ABS system and ditching traction control or both.
3 channel rear = ABS with pumpkin mounted sensor, no reluctor rings, no traction control. 4 channel rear = ABS & traction control by way of wheel speed sensors/reluctor rings.
Wheel speed sensors/reluctor rings are the source of the signals that feed both sets of calculations. Throttle position makes the difference... assuming you're not braking and accelerating at the same time. If you're running a line lock, obviously you'll be changing to a 3 channel ABS system and ditching traction control or both.
3 channel rear = ABS with pumpkin mounted sensor, no reluctor rings, no traction control. 4 channel rear = ABS & traction control by way of wheel speed sensors/reluctor rings.
Last edited by Gojira94; May 16, 2011 at 07:18 PM. Reason: typo
Yes.
Wheel speed sensors/reluctor rings are the source of the signals that feed both sets of calculations. Throttle position makes the difference... assuming you're not braking and accelerating at the same time. If you're running a line lock, obviously you'll be changing to a 3 channel ABS system and ditching traction control or both.
3 channel rear = ABS with pumpkin mounted sensor, no reluctor rings, no traction control. 4 channel rear = ABS & traction control by way of wheel speed sensors/reluctor rings.
Wheel speed sensors/reluctor rings are the source of the signals that feed both sets of calculations. Throttle position makes the difference... assuming you're not braking and accelerating at the same time. If you're running a line lock, obviously you'll be changing to a 3 channel ABS system and ditching traction control or both.
3 channel rear = ABS with pumpkin mounted sensor, no reluctor rings, no traction control. 4 channel rear = ABS & traction control by way of wheel speed sensors/reluctor rings.
TECH Resident
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 866
Likes: 0
From: Cartersville, Georgia
To be completely clear, a 3 channel rear control does utilize a reluctor ring. It is bolted between the carrier and the ring gear. A 3 channel does not have the reluctor rings pressed onto each axle end.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,146
Likes: 62
From: Little Rock, AR
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,146
Likes: 62
From: Little Rock, AR
You may have ABS compatibility issues using the 4 channel rear. It is also going to have separate brake lines to each rear caliper instead of a common tee arrangement like you now have.
TECH Resident
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 866
Likes: 0
From: Cartersville, Georgia
... to be crystal clear, the reluctor ring is placed on one side of the carrier flange, the ring gear on the other side of the carrier flange and 10 bolts pass through the reluctor ring, the carrier flange and thread into the ring gear ...