Stock motor but full suspension?
#1
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From: LONG BEACH 2 THA INLAND EMPIRE
Stock motor but full suspension?
Just curious.. I want to go ahead and head an cam my LT but I think I want to start with full suspension.. Are there any stock motor but full suspension LT1s put there beating LS1s?
#5
I think you might be thinking about it wrong.
A full suspension car isnt cheap, id say your looking at close to 3000-5000$ or more. But it depends how radical you want to go. If you want traction for the street drivin car, you should look into shocks and springs first, Adj pan hard and Adj tq arm. If you want to get serious then you drop close 1000 on a Tubular k member and tubular a arms. then theres brakes and steering rack. To me there is a level, that 11 sec bolt on only car is built for the strip, i would have to guess thats its life. If im wrong and it doubles as a street car then thats very impressive. Im not sure the restrictions for bolt on only, i know you can touch the rear end, and probably the trans. That car is probably running a gear between 4.56 and like 5.30 or whatever they even make that high. Then im sure theres various peices of the car cut off, fuel tank switched to a fuel cell. He might be under 11.49 but i cant remember, meaning theres more weight of a roll cage, i wanna say the record is 11.48?
If you want a car that you can drive, your better off looking into springs and shocks, adj pan hard and adj torque arm and a rear end that can take a launch and some tires that can give it the launch. Maybe a tubular k member and a arms after that if you still feel like spending money on suspension related parts. IF it were me, and it will be me soon, Id get shocks and springs first plus of course some decent tires, weight transfer is the first thing you NEED.
I guess what im trying to say is that a FULL suspension car is only that way because theyve done all they want to do to the engine, and they need to shave weight and time in other areas. For the average weekend drag racer, you dont need that.
A full suspension car isnt cheap, id say your looking at close to 3000-5000$ or more. But it depends how radical you want to go. If you want traction for the street drivin car, you should look into shocks and springs first, Adj pan hard and Adj tq arm. If you want to get serious then you drop close 1000 on a Tubular k member and tubular a arms. then theres brakes and steering rack. To me there is a level, that 11 sec bolt on only car is built for the strip, i would have to guess thats its life. If im wrong and it doubles as a street car then thats very impressive. Im not sure the restrictions for bolt on only, i know you can touch the rear end, and probably the trans. That car is probably running a gear between 4.56 and like 5.30 or whatever they even make that high. Then im sure theres various peices of the car cut off, fuel tank switched to a fuel cell. He might be under 11.49 but i cant remember, meaning theres more weight of a roll cage, i wanna say the record is 11.48?
If you want a car that you can drive, your better off looking into springs and shocks, adj pan hard and adj torque arm and a rear end that can take a launch and some tires that can give it the launch. Maybe a tubular k member and a arms after that if you still feel like spending money on suspension related parts. IF it were me, and it will be me soon, Id get shocks and springs first plus of course some decent tires, weight transfer is the first thing you NEED.
I guess what im trying to say is that a FULL suspension car is only that way because theyve done all they want to do to the engine, and they need to shave weight and time in other areas. For the average weekend drag racer, you dont need that.
Last edited by trilkb; 05-16-2011 at 06:28 PM.
#6
I say do susp 1st. Whats the point of having 400 wheel if u cant hook it. I went 12.3 with boltons and goos susp. Ive out run bunch of ppl cause there blowing tires off while im dead hookin. Go ahead and spray to lol
#7
No one gives a ****, troll. You suck so much ls1 **** I still can't understand why you haven't bought one already and left us alone.
The man asked a valid question that had NOTHING to do with an ls1. Learn how to keep it on topic or STFU
The man asked a valid question that had NOTHING to do with an ls1. Learn how to keep it on topic or STFU
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#8
He's just mad cause the bolt on car is faster than his.
#9
I don't think you'll need what is considered by many to be "full suspension" to hook up well once you cam it. I'd probably go with a few well placed suspension pieces and tires, with the proper gearing, and you should be able to come out of the hole hard.
#10
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#15
what are your ultimate plans for the car if not forced induction I would start with cam,gear and tires.
#16
building a car is like building a house. You need a good foundation, steady walls and a good roof. I consider the foundation the chassis and suspension, the walls are the brakes and the roof the driveline. But that's just the way I see it. If you want to do suspension first that's a good start. All you will do is make the car more predictable and shed some weight. As for brakes, if you're not trying to hit single digits, you'll be fine with the stockers. Then go for the driveline and do whatever you please. Follow the recipe and you will have your cake and eat it too. G/L
#17
I am pure stock motor with part suspension, part drivetrain upgrades. Now in the process of a bolt-on power upgrades. My car got 26mpg on the way to the track the day of my sig pic. Then drove back home 1 3/4 hrs away.
#18
Yup, I had a customer with a Bone Stock LT, did all suspension mods, the only motor mod was a street tune, Nothing else done to the motor. His first time at the track ran a 13.00 Flat..He did have a small stall..
#19
unless you're making big power theres no neeed for adjustable everything on the car........with a car like your's run the lower control arm relocation brackets........if the car is lowered run an adjustable panhard rod.......put on the transmission crossmember with the torq arm relocation mount on it and then you have adjustability of you're torq arm......you dont need to be wasting big $$ on adjustable torq arms......you will be able to adjust your instant center right throught the torq arm mount as well as the LCA relocation brackets.......id pick up a set of tubular LCA's and also a set of drag bags........that will keep youre $$ down low and your performance yeild high.....
and if you want to spend the money a set of adjustable shocks all the way around on the car is a great thing to have so you can dial the car in bound/rebound wise.....
and if you want to spend the money a set of adjustable shocks all the way around on the car is a great thing to have so you can dial the car in bound/rebound wise.....
#20