Not my day, car wont start after disconnecting battery & TB bypass ?
#1
Not my day, car wont start after disconnecting battery & TB bypass ?
Yup WTF? anyone. I can post a video of it not starting if that helps. My day was doing the throttle body bypass, changing out the coolant sensor only to find the new one leaks so i cleaned up the old and threw that back in and now... the bitch doesn't start, keeps cranking but wont turn over. Charge is good, thought maybe i ran outa gas i know the gauge is off, 2 gallons later still nothing. I know i'm probably leaving something out. VATS light is ALWAYS on hasn't given me a problem in 3+ months. idk
Someone help, literally i can't even look at her at the moment.
Someone help, literally i can't even look at her at the moment.
#7
I had rags / paper towels under everything, little spilled as it was and doubt any of it passed the towels. I don't know what the issue is. That being said the first time i bleed the cooling system i didn't know i needed rags under those bleeder valves opti is still holding strong knock on wood
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#8
The vats codes are DTC 46 or P1626 depending on the year. You should go back and make sure everything is hooked up it might be something simple.
Last edited by riceburnerZ28; 06-26-2011 at 04:02 PM.
#9
Code throwing is P1371 Distributor Ignition (DI)
So that's either the opti or harness isn't? Please be the harness How do i tell and go about checking the opti and/or harness ??? I need a reference or something please.
Edit: Barely ANY coolant spilled, is it something i could have disconnected while messing with this stuff today?
So that's either the opti or harness isn't? Please be the harness How do i tell and go about checking the opti and/or harness ??? I need a reference or something please.
Edit: Barely ANY coolant spilled, is it something i could have disconnected while messing with this stuff today?
#10
You should be able to check that the harness is getting power to the opti. Your picture of the coil is correct. Make sure the copper ground strap is still attached to studs holding the coil to the cylinder head. Anyone know what all can cause the code he mentioned
#11
Very serious question about testing the harness with a probe tester, because i don't know electronics at all... with the harness unplugged and the key on the run position i should get feedback or not if the harness is bad correct? Probe works fine but when i did this nothing, so... ?
#12
Very serious question about testing the harness with a probe tester, because i don't know electronics at all... with the harness unplugged and the key on the run position i should get feedback or not if the harness is bad correct? Probe works fine but when i did this nothing, so... ?
#13
Post number 2, riceburner asked you if you have fuel and spark. You haven't answered.
Did you pull a plug wire and confirm spark while cranking?
If you have no spark, start working backwards. Is there spark coming out of the ignition coil? No? Move onto what feeds power to the ignition system.
How's your fuel pressure? When you key to on, does the pump prime? Do you smell fuel?
You gotta confirm all these steps FIRST, then move on.
Did you pull a plug wire and confirm spark while cranking?
If you have no spark, start working backwards. Is there spark coming out of the ignition coil? No? Move onto what feeds power to the ignition system.
How's your fuel pressure? When you key to on, does the pump prime? Do you smell fuel?
You gotta confirm all these steps FIRST, then move on.
#14
Post number 2, riceburner asked you if you have fuel and spark. You haven't answered.
Did you pull a plug wire and confirm spark while cranking?
If you have no spark, start working backwards. Is there spark coming out of the ignition coil? No? Move onto what feeds power to the ignition system.
How's your fuel pressure? When you key to on, does the pump prime? Do you smell fuel?
You gotta confirm all these steps FIRST, then move on.
Did you pull a plug wire and confirm spark while cranking?
If you have no spark, start working backwards. Is there spark coming out of the ignition coil? No? Move onto what feeds power to the ignition system.
How's your fuel pressure? When you key to on, does the pump prime? Do you smell fuel?
You gotta confirm all these steps FIRST, then move on.
#15
#16
I promise plug wire is what i meant, the plugs are a bitch i pay pep poys for that but thanks for the detail that did help.
#18
Update, had a good friend of mine come over who knows his ****, builds these cars & mainly 30's 40's and 50 year make models for fun. Laughs at me because i say my 97 is old. Anywayyyy, there is no spark i have fuel. We got the car in the air alittle, he took a look at some things and said with the code it's throwing and what he saw start with the crank sensor. Thoughts? Maybe my car with be running tomorrow?
#19
First, check the power source for the ignition (fuses). Then re-plug all the plugs for the ignition and optispark. Having failed with all that, swap in a new ignition control module.
Beyond that, maybe it's the VATS system.
http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html
Beyond that, maybe it's the VATS system.
http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html
#20
Fuses check out. I have my buddy coming back over today. Security light isn't on and wasn't throwing any codes related to the VATS. Those two things just ruled it out for me, but maybe i'm missing something? I guess next is the ignition control.
EDIT: i'm dumb, the light IS ON when it's running but it's been on for months. It isn't on when trying to start it or afterwords. Thought it would be light for 2 or 3 minutes afterwords if the vats was preventing it from starting?
EDIT: i'm dumb, the light IS ON when it's running but it's been on for months. It isn't on when trying to start it or afterwords. Thought it would be light for 2 or 3 minutes afterwords if the vats was preventing it from starting?