Is it hard to install some LT headers, what do u need, is there any write ups on this. J.w ? Or If you have take it to get done how much does it cost usually from a shop what should u be looking at spending

 

Use the search option on here and you find 100's of threads with this same topic and will most likey find what you are looking for. It is not that hard at all, I did mine by myself in about 5 hrs tops. Just have to have the right tools.

 

Just to give you an idea a buddy of mine at his shop quoted me 700 for a FULL exhaust setup. Headers y and cat back. Pretty good to me. I wouldn't pay more
Than a few hundred I've heard of shops wanting a grand lol

 

If you know how to turn a wrench and are willing to get a little dirty its not worth it to pay someone else to do it.

 

yea thats true, Ill prob end up doing it, it is that i live like 5min from speed inc and was wondering on how much ppl mite have paid to get there headers installed.

Also Am I just able to buy like an universal x pipe from jegs like a 3in one and put it in as well, or will there have to be modifications or what? X pipes are supposed to be better than why do alot of ppl here seem to have y pipes?

 

Because some people got off the nut-swinging mode of thinking if it ain't true duals then it don't work. What are your goals. Where do you see this car going? Do you have or just want to spend extra money with diminishing returns? Sit down and make a reasonable goal for this car I.e. motor, hp, ride height, purpose for the car(drag, cruiser, auto-x etc) figure out these things first and hit me up and if you will listen you will have a car that will make you very happy(exhaust wise).

 

I want it to be a drag/ cruiser for now while being D*D for the spring and summer time ... Would like to put down at least 350ish hp asap while I try and figure out if I want to do a 383 or an ls1 swap. I heard the true duals sound much better and it is better for the car so that is why I am wondering. Goal one be able to beat c5's evos and cobalt ss I hate the evo and cobalt but I need to beat friends c5, he is to cocky just because he drive a c5 with a borla catback omg , that his parents bought him. I would like to make 370 though if possible and I am about to be able to work with around 1200$ pretty soon , and current mods in sig . Headers I know will open this engine alot was thinkin pacesetter lt and a tq converter from another member here possibly plus lca , but let me know what u think

 

Good thing is the power level you are after is super easy to obtain. I saw a set of those ebay headers and matching y-pipe go for 265$ shipped. That will be your best bang for the buck first. Then unless you already have a good cai the lid conversion and a cowl hood will add power and looks. Any mod that you can buy cheap, don't buy out of a big lump of money. Save the ~$50 up for each one and use your big lumps of money for big mods.

 

I want a SS hood , I like how it looks, what else is good? If do I pacesetters they were about 265$ for race version. What numbers am I looking about after I get them I would like it to the 360rwhp, so with a 1200 budge and I may end up doing most of work myself and with a friend

 

I'm willing to bet you won't be putting down anything close to 360 with just those mods. It would be around 300 most likely. I put down 291/323 after headers on a bone stock car.

Have you dyno'd your car yet? Normal gains from headers and full exhaust usually range from 10-20 or so HP. I got exactly 10 hp and TQ from my car.

 

Jet Hot LTs install guide:

http://www.theheadfl.com/jethotlt.htm

Tips: Don't be afraid to unbolt the motor mounts and jack up the motor. I actually had to unbolt the K-member on one side and pry down to give myself another inch of clearance.

Also, watch out for things touching or rubbing. Things will melt. I recommend coated headers (Jet Hot, etc.) or your melting problems will be worse.

 

I may not be much help as I installed my headers while installing the motor so had better clearance but I did just remove them last night without unbolting the motor. The LPPs i have both sides came out the bottom just had to remove the plugs/wires on both sides and unbolt the steering shaft and with the nose sky high they slid out from underneath with ease.

 

what about if i used header wrap for heat, and I was stating my goal to make 350- 370rwhp with a 1200$ budget to see what to do and what I should get. I was wondering if posi's are worth getting

 

Basically I have just my own topic

SO Here it is now I guess BUILD my Car wth 1200$ and goal to make 350-370rwhp and Need to beat a C5 or I would like to run a 13 or slightly better if possible , no n20 I already see ppl jjust gettin ready to put that in, I want constint power

 

Don't use header wrap. It will retain moisture and rust your headers.

My headers were Jet Hot coated and they've been installed since 2003. They still look as new as the day I bought them. I haven't had any problem with melting things... It is worth it, in my opinion.

 

$1200 will not net you 360a rwhp unless you convince people to just give you parts or you are really good with a welder. Good at welding? Custom rear mount is the choice for you! Not good? You'll see ~310 rwhp with full bolt ons through the auto. But don't focus on rwhp numbers, they mean nothing! Is the c5 a manual or auto? Go with the ss ebay headers, you get a free y-pipe(saves money). SS hood looks good, but functions for ****!

 

it is auto and it is 2000 with just borla cat and some sticky tires, What about stall ( one here for sale about 400) from another member and are the ebays coated ?b.c it seems that this guy is swearing by them , so that is at 650 -700 shipped lets say then there 500 left and then would i be able to do RR or something else like lower control arms and tq arm or what ? Is gettin to 13 flat or 13.1 possible on this 1300 budget, NOTE there is a cam in the car but it is unknown I think it is a top end cam cuz it pulls hard over 80 , the car got to 150 quick

 

I beat this vette with the srt, it is just this kid is so cocky and spoiled and talks so much ****, he is a co worker, and is like ohh you have a car with more than 100k its prob slow and it isnt reliable its gonna blow up, im like you dont even know **** about cars and your spoiled , I have to beat this kid, and slaughters mustangs, and beat evos b.c near me there quite a bit of stangs and evo's. THx

 

Hard to believe someone put a cam in there and put back the stock exhaust manifolds. But we've all done dumb **** like that before, so I guess it's possible. Most members will tell you to stay away from cheap stalls. The only brands recommended around here are Yank, Vig, Circle D, and Edge. Edge is a little lower budget. And as far as stall speed, no less than 3600 is recommended.

$1,200 really won't get you far, but it seems you are on the right track. Headers is #1. The ebay headers are stainless, so I don't know why they would need to be coated, just keep you're plug wires away from them. I would take a set of ebay SS headers over anything else available under $700. As mentioned they come with y pipe too.

Next would be tires and suspension, but this is assuming you are track racing and not roll racing on the street.

I would suggest taking the car to the track as it is now and see what she will run, then you can set some goals and see what gains you get out of what mods.

You will also need a tune and i would suggest datalogging software too.

 

Truth is, those with deeper pockets are going to have faster cars. Money = Horsepower. Those of us on a budget will take a long time getting our car the way we want it.