An Coolant Crossover Conversion
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An Coolant Crossover Conversion Here's an example of what I did:
I'm posting this because the other thread detailing it is locked and I feel others may find this info useful.
Here is the parts list:
(2) 1/4 NPT x -6 MALE Straight
(2) -6 Female 90* Elbow x Pushlok Hose Barb
(3) -6 Female straight x Pushlok Hose Barb
(1) -6 3 way Male Tee
(1) 5ft section of Pushlok Aeroquip Hose
Alternatively you can substitute where it says hose barb, for braided line fittings or whatever you decide to use. The pushlok line is much cheaper but is still good hose and will work well in this application.
If you go the Pushlok route, either buy or rent a Pushlok installation tool OR soak the hose in HOT water for 2-3 minutes before installing onto the fittings. You should still be prepared to muscle it on there. It helps to put the fitting against a solid surface / wall and lean your body weight into it to help push it on there.
Also, if you go the pushlok route, the hose should simply clamp onto the Radiator.
If you go the Steel Braided route, you will need an adapter to take it from the steel braided line, to hose barb and simply add a small piece of 3/8 rubber hose on the end, and clamp that to the radiator.
Installing the fittings into the heads requires NO tapping. I used tef paste and screwed them in, and tightened them very snug with a wrench.
It's said that the actual thread is 1/4 NPSF which is a fine thread STRAIGHT pipe thread, which is unique because typically pipe threads are tapered. HOWEVER, mine installed with ZERO issues and no need to tap them, etc.
Cheers
I'm posting this because the other thread detailing it is locked and I feel others may find this info useful.
Here is the parts list:
(2) 1/4 NPT x -6 MALE Straight
(2) -6 Female 90* Elbow x Pushlok Hose Barb
(3) -6 Female straight x Pushlok Hose Barb
(1) -6 3 way Male Tee
(1) 5ft section of Pushlok Aeroquip Hose
Alternatively you can substitute where it says hose barb, for braided line fittings or whatever you decide to use. The pushlok line is much cheaper but is still good hose and will work well in this application.
If you go the Pushlok route, either buy or rent a Pushlok installation tool OR soak the hose in HOT water for 2-3 minutes before installing onto the fittings. You should still be prepared to muscle it on there. It helps to put the fitting against a solid surface / wall and lean your body weight into it to help push it on there.
Also, if you go the pushlok route, the hose should simply clamp onto the Radiator.
If you go the Steel Braided route, you will need an adapter to take it from the steel braided line, to hose barb and simply add a small piece of 3/8 rubber hose on the end, and clamp that to the radiator.
Installing the fittings into the heads requires NO tapping. I used tef paste and screwed them in, and tightened them very snug with a wrench.
It's said that the actual thread is 1/4 NPSF which is a fine thread STRAIGHT pipe thread, which is unique because typically pipe threads are tapered. HOWEVER, mine installed with ZERO issues and no need to tap them, etc.
Cheers
Tip for pushlock stuff:
-Freeze the fittings for like 20minutes
-Buy the aeroquip AN vice insert tool
-Get a heat gun and heat the hose end so its hot to the touch
-Put the cold fitting in the vice, slide the hose over
Its really, really easy and takes little to no effort.
And
Careful cranking that NPT fitting in, the first few threads WILL gall up, you want to run the taping tool first.
Gregrob,
You should take those hose ends off from the head to tee and redo them, you want the hose seated on the fitting seat, even though there isnt much pressure it could still separate.
-Freeze the fittings for like 20minutes
-Buy the aeroquip AN vice insert tool
-Get a heat gun and heat the hose end so its hot to the touch
-Put the cold fitting in the vice, slide the hose over
Its really, really easy and takes little to no effort.
And
Careful cranking that NPT fitting in, the first few threads WILL gall up, you want to run the taping tool first.
Gregrob,
You should take those hose ends off from the head to tee and redo them, you want the hose seated on the fitting seat, even though there isnt much pressure it could still separate.
Since it's the cooling system you can dip the hose in dish detergent and push it on.
Al 95 Z28. >GM AC seals work on the steam pipe banjo bolt. Use water valve grease to keep the bolt from tearing up the rubber.
Al 95 Z28. >GM AC seals work on the steam pipe banjo bolt. Use water valve grease to keep the bolt from tearing up the rubber.
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Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 5,130
Likes: 4
From: 6,000+ feet
I've dealt with push lok a lot just didn't have my tool handy. They're not coming apart, its way past both barbs. I would liked to have gotten them seated better tho.
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Of course there will be no resistance. Tapered NPT threads seal by pressure - increasing resistance. When you encounter resistance with straight thread hole and an NPT fitting it's only the last few threads that are doing the sealing and galling in the process. Anyone who has ever threaded pipe together knows this.
You can probably get away with it because the cooling system is at such a low pressure that it won't matter, but for the extra 5 minutes it takes to tap the threads why not do it the right way?
You can probably get away with it because the cooling system is at such a low pressure that it won't matter, but for the extra 5 minutes it takes to tap the threads why not do it the right way?