355 or 383
355 or 383 I'm about to start the engine building process but i am stuck between a 355 or 383. I hardly ever take the car to the strip but like to air it out every once and a while on the highway. I'm planning to run a 100-150 shot with Le2 heads. Does anyone have a suggestion as to which way I should go? Thanks
The reality is it depends on how deep your wallet is. With a 383 you're talking all new internals. Preferably starting with a forged crank, pistons and billet splayed mains especially if you're running nitrous.
My rebuilt 350 short block cost me $1500.
My rebuilt 350 short block cost me $1500.
since you probably aren't going to want to rev it to space i would recommend 355 with forged pistons and/or rods and stock crank. you will probably hit 400whp with those LE2's depending on cam
The only difference between the two is the 383 requires a new crank and clearancing of the pan rails for the increased stroke. You're talking a ~$500-$700 difference between the two. But if you opt to use a non-stock crank in the 355 then the cost between the two is ONLY the cost of clearancing the pan rails. Dollar for dollar a 383 will make more HP/TQ (usually) than a comparable 355.
Short version - Do the 383. I had the same dilemma when I chose to do a build and I'm glad I went with the 383. You'll have second thoughts GUARANTEED when you have it all apart and that stock crank is getting dropped back in when a stroker crank could easily be in its place.
Also consider that a 383 requires a more aggressive heads/cam to utilize that added displacement.
Short version - Do the 383. I had the same dilemma when I chose to do a build and I'm glad I went with the 383. You'll have second thoughts GUARANTEED when you have it all apart and that stock crank is getting dropped back in when a stroker crank could easily be in its place.
Also consider that a 383 requires a more aggressive heads/cam to utilize that added displacement.
Hmm..i thought the stock cubes were best if you plan on revving the absolute crap out of the motor all the time since it was less stress than a stroker? Or if you are going to be boosting it. Well thats the reason i didn't want to stroke mine.
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There is nothing wrong with a 350"-360" non stroked small block, with the proper camshaft,head choice along with a bit more compression and the need for more RPM you will have a sweet set up.
If you want to spend a few more $$$$$$$$ as Joe stated you can build a 383-388 stroker, this set up will create a bit more HP and of course the TQ numbers will jump
Personally i am a fan of BIG TQ#s at lower RPM #s...... Either way you go it will put a smile on your face and a dent in your wallet....... Just remember if money is tight get your heads done first,just like in real life GOOD HEAD GOES A LONG WAY!
If you want to spend a few more $$$$$$$$ as Joe stated you can build a 383-388 stroker, this set up will create a bit more HP and of course the TQ numbers will jump
Personally i am a fan of BIG TQ#s at lower RPM #s...... Either way you go it will put a smile on your face and a dent in your wallet....... Just remember if money is tight get your heads done first,just like in real life GOOD HEAD GOES A LONG WAY! 
Go 383, if you were to use the same exact H/C/I the car would be a ton more streetable. More cubes equal better drivability. I wish I would have went back 383 when I didi the rebuild but I was on a tight budget at the time. The car was a beast then. It's still quick but with the 383 I was able to run a bigger cam which means more power. Do me a favor, if you decide to go 383 go forged, I broke a cast steel eagle crank at 450rwhp NA.
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Go 383, if you were to use the same exact H/C/I the car would be a ton more streetable. More cubes equal better drivability. I wish I would have went back 383 when I didi the rebuild but I was on a tight budget at the time. The car was a beast then. It's still quick but with the 383 I was able to run a bigger cam which means more power. Do me a favor, if you decide to go 383 go forged, I broke a cast steel eagle crank at 450rwhp NA.
The only difference between the two is the 383 requires a new crank and clearancing of the pan rails for the increased stroke. You're talking a ~$500-$700 difference between the two. But if you opt to use a non-stock crank in the 355 then the cost between the two is ONLY the cost of clearancing the pan rails. Dollar for dollar a 383 will make more HP/TQ (usually) than a comparable 355.
Short version - Do the 383. I had the same dilemma when I chose to do a build and I'm glad I went with the 383. You'll have second thoughts GUARANTEED when you have it all apart and that stock crank is getting dropped back in when a stroker crank could easily be in its place.
Also consider that a 383 requires a more aggressive heads/cam to utilize that added displacement.
Short version - Do the 383. I had the same dilemma when I chose to do a build and I'm glad I went with the 383. You'll have second thoughts GUARANTEED when you have it all apart and that stock crank is getting dropped back in when a stroker crank could easily be in its place.
Also consider that a 383 requires a more aggressive heads/cam to utilize that added displacement.
Go 383, if you were to use the same exact H/C/I the car would be a ton more streetable. More cubes equal better drivability. I wish I would have went back 383 when I didi the rebuild but I was on a tight budget at the time. The car was a beast then. It's still quick but with the 383 I was able to run a bigger cam which means more power. Do me a favor, if you decide to go 383 go forged, I broke a cast steel eagle crank at 450rwhp NA.
It absolutely is. That's why I said depending on the top end parts used. There have been those who've stroked an engine and used stock heads/intake and it ran like dog ****. Had great torque for a few thousand rpm, but fell off because the engine was being strangled. You have an engine with a longer stroke it is going to demand more air. If you have the top end parts to complement the longer stroke then good things will happen.