Advice
Advice u guys were pretty helpful while I was doing my cam swap well here is what happin I got it all back together an drove it for about 50 miles and what do u know spun two mains well my block is getting fixed and being bored just going to do a 355 rebuild well I wasent really feeling the baby cam so I sold it and thinking maybe going with the gm847 and get the 1.5 rr so the lift wouldn't be so high and turn around 6300 rpm or cc503 cam and get the 1.6rr I want a mean sounding cam pretty much what I'm getting at an I want it to run with my buddys stock ls1 I am doing long tube headers and forge pistons with my slightly potted heads what do u think would be best for good power and a mean sounding cam and also if u have any idea on what cam other that the cc503 or gm847
X2 you dont have to have big duration to make a cam sound choppy as hell and rev high which normally goes with that. You can have LE or AI grind you the same 224/230 duration as the cc503 but have it made on a 109/110 lsa. It will chop hard and not have to 6500+. There are many guys on this site like you want a choppy idle but not sacrifice low end. This is also good for guys still running stock shortblocks not over revving them to the point of gamble.
Check out of Youtube a username called StealthFormula. He loved the cc503 but wanted some more power and chop without having to give up the lowend. Runs 11.5 1/4 with a set of LE2s and a built auto.
Check out of Youtube a username called StealthFormula. He loved the cc503 but wanted some more power and chop without having to give up the lowend. Runs 11.5 1/4 with a set of LE2s and a built auto.
It blew a head gasket and got kinda hot so maybe heat I couldn't tell u after blown the head gasket I got my heads re done and did a cam swap then drove about 50 miles and had serious oil pressure problems
All of these threads Im seeing about spun rod/main bearings after cam swaps are making me nervous. Im gonna be pissed if I go through the trouble of changing cams and it blows up.
How many miles were on it when you swapped cams? What did the cam bearings look like and what kind of oil pressure were you running?
How many miles were on it when you swapped cams? What did the cam bearings look like and what kind of oil pressure were you running?
All of these threads Im seeing about spun rod/main bearings after cam swaps are making me nervous. Im gonna be pissed if I go through the trouble of changing cams and it blows up.
How many miles were on it when you swapped cams? What did the cam bearings look like and what kind of oil pressure were you running?
How many miles were on it when you swapped cams? What did the cam bearings look like and what kind of oil pressure were you running?
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All of these threads Im seeing about spun rod/main bearings after cam swaps are making me nervous. Im gonna be pissed if I go through the trouble of changing cams and it blows up.
How many miles were on it when you swapped cams? What did the cam bearings look like and what kind of oil pressure were you running?
How many miles were on it when you swapped cams? What did the cam bearings look like and what kind of oil pressure were you running?
to the Op, If i were you I would be doing a forged 355 bottom end. Then id get a nitrous cam and run a 150shot at the track. Thats just me tho.
My oil pressure does the lovely fbody things, when she starts, and shes on throttle its good oil pressure. Idling when shes warm is when the gauge drops, alot of people say its just the gauge though. What is it....10 psi for every 1000 rpm?
Last edited by trilkb; Nov 16, 2011 at 07:10 PM.
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75% of the problems associated with spinning bearings after cam installs stem from unclean working conditions or lack of caution during assembly. Not sure if this is the case here, but just wanted to point that out.
The other 25% seems to be the increased RPMs taking their toll.
The other 25% seems to be the increased RPMs taking their toll.
im voting on debris from install......
dont let those threads sway you......if bearings are spun after a cam install its because of poor assembly/dirty conditions upon assembly.......done correctly there is nothing wrong with it......ive done tons of them on LT's and LS's and never once have had an issue.........
^yup exactly..........debris will kill........also if he had a leaking headgasket it prob pulled water in the pump and ran it through the mains and that was that.......
All of these threads Im seeing about spun rod/main bearings after cam swaps are making me nervous. Im gonna be pissed if I go through the trouble of changing cams and it blows up.
How many miles were on it when you swapped cams? What did the cam bearings look like and what kind of oil pressure were you running?
How many miles were on it when you swapped cams? What did the cam bearings look like and what kind of oil pressure were you running?
75% of the problems associated with spinning bearings after cam installs stem from unclean working conditions or lack of caution during assembly. Not sure if this is the case here, but just wanted to point that out.
The other 25% seems to be the increased RPMs taking their toll.
The other 25% seems to be the increased RPMs taking their toll.
^yup exactly..........debris will kill........also if he had a leaking headgasket it prob pulled water in the pump and ran it through the mains and that was that.......
I did my best at keeping everything clean so I don't think that wad the issue I did bump up my rev limiter tho so that could be a cause heat could of caused it who knows The mains on the crank clean up with 20 an the rods were 10 so it's all fixed and ready to go
