Bolt on mods and the horsepower gained from each
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Bolt on mods and the horsepower gained from each
Since buying my 93 Vette a year ago I've cruised the internet looking for bolton mods hoping they'ed get me too where I wanted to be performance wise. The only real step by step dyno data I could find was at WS6.com and the data was limited to his mods and what he chose. My ultimate goal has always been mid to high 12's. Now after my 3rd trip to the dyno within a year I think I'm finally there. Here is what I've learned and the benefits in horsepower and torque found with each mod.
First the test bed,a completely stock.
1993 Corvette 49,000 miles Lt1, A4 3.07 posi and GSC Goodyear tires.
1. Stock with what I later found out included an airfoil, my numbers were 256hp at 5150rpms and 287 Tq 3300 rpms corrected.
2. Airfoil, opened air box with no filter and TB bypass. My numbers were 264hp at almost 5300rpms and 294tq, for a gain of 8hp and 7tq. Both of these pulls step 1 and 2 were same day within an hour of each other. Corrected
3. All of 2 and muffler deletes with cats gutted. My numbers were 270hp at almost 5400rpms and 298tq, for a gain of 6hp and 4tq. Corrected
4. All of 2 and 3 with 1.6 scorpion RR My numbers were 277hp at just over 5400rpms and 304tq. for a gain of 7hp and 6tq. Corrected
5. All of 2,3 and 4 with a new chip tuned by PCM4less. My numbers were 287hp at 5400rpms and 316tq. for a gain of 10hp and 12tq. Corrected. steps 4 and 5 were done on the same day.
Note: after this, I soon developed a bad pop at about 5500 rpms. I changed the original delco plugs, wires and installed a new MSD coil which corrected the popping/misfire.
6. All of 2,3,4 and 5 with new .505 lift and 220 dur cam swap, new beehive springs and new flash from PCM4less. My numbers today were 319hp at almost 5600rpms and 339tq for a gain of 32hp and 23tq.
7. All of 2,3,4,5 and a 50 and 100 Brand X adjustable wet nitrous kit(I pussed out on the 150 shot) 50 jets My numbers were 355hp and 404tq for a gain of 36hp and 65tq. The 100 jets netted me 422hp and 469tq. 102hp and 130tq. Numbers for 6 and 7 happened today corrected.
What the **** it all proves. Nothing I guess but these are the mods I've made and the gains from them. Total cost was about 1500 dollars for parts 400 bucks in dyno time and a **** load of blood, sweat and tears. I think I'm at my goal so I will post up after the dragstrip run. I'll post the dyno sheets as soon as can fiqure out how the damn scanner works with this new laptop. I do know I gained 500 or 600 more useable rpm's and 166hp and 182lbs of torque.
Probably **** the opti on the way to the dragstrip over the holidays.
First the test bed,a completely stock.
1993 Corvette 49,000 miles Lt1, A4 3.07 posi and GSC Goodyear tires.
1. Stock with what I later found out included an airfoil, my numbers were 256hp at 5150rpms and 287 Tq 3300 rpms corrected.
2. Airfoil, opened air box with no filter and TB bypass. My numbers were 264hp at almost 5300rpms and 294tq, for a gain of 8hp and 7tq. Both of these pulls step 1 and 2 were same day within an hour of each other. Corrected
3. All of 2 and muffler deletes with cats gutted. My numbers were 270hp at almost 5400rpms and 298tq, for a gain of 6hp and 4tq. Corrected
4. All of 2 and 3 with 1.6 scorpion RR My numbers were 277hp at just over 5400rpms and 304tq. for a gain of 7hp and 6tq. Corrected
5. All of 2,3 and 4 with a new chip tuned by PCM4less. My numbers were 287hp at 5400rpms and 316tq. for a gain of 10hp and 12tq. Corrected. steps 4 and 5 were done on the same day.
Note: after this, I soon developed a bad pop at about 5500 rpms. I changed the original delco plugs, wires and installed a new MSD coil which corrected the popping/misfire.
6. All of 2,3,4 and 5 with new .505 lift and 220 dur cam swap, new beehive springs and new flash from PCM4less. My numbers today were 319hp at almost 5600rpms and 339tq for a gain of 32hp and 23tq.
7. All of 2,3,4,5 and a 50 and 100 Brand X adjustable wet nitrous kit(I pussed out on the 150 shot) 50 jets My numbers were 355hp and 404tq for a gain of 36hp and 65tq. The 100 jets netted me 422hp and 469tq. 102hp and 130tq. Numbers for 6 and 7 happened today corrected.
What the **** it all proves. Nothing I guess but these are the mods I've made and the gains from them. Total cost was about 1500 dollars for parts 400 bucks in dyno time and a **** load of blood, sweat and tears. I think I'm at my goal so I will post up after the dragstrip run. I'll post the dyno sheets as soon as can fiqure out how the damn scanner works with this new laptop. I do know I gained 500 or 600 more useable rpm's and 166hp and 182lbs of torque.
Probably **** the opti on the way to the dragstrip over the holidays.
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That looks nice, but don't expect to find out how fast your car really is with just one trip to the track. One thing that stuck with me is something capricemgr said, he's seen people make one run down the track and they were so dejected at how they did they just kept on driving right out the front gate.
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That looks nice, but don't expect to find out how fast your car really is with just one trip to the track. One thing that stuck with me is something capricemgr said, he's seen people make one run down the track and they were so dejected at how they did they just kept on driving right out the front gate.
What are some of the pre-race things you guys do to ready your cars once at the track. I would like to make my runs under real world conditions. Like the car at normal operating temp, not less than maybe 20psi in the rear tires. I will be not pushing the car through the staging lanes or icing the intake to keep it cool, nor will I be putting a propane torch to the nitrous bottle to heat the gas up. No racing fuel either. Just real world, how the car would be running at a stop light when someone pulls up after 30 minutes of cruising.
#7
nor will I be putting a propane torch to the nitrous bottle to heat the gas up.
Nice numbers, Ive heard one of the larger improvements for an A4 C4 vette is getting some good gears in the rear end. really wakes them up!
I think youll be happy with the track. I normally do a cool down for an hour or so when i get there. Ive seen alot of people head from gate, to tech, to track, never shutting down...and run a low 12. Thats always impressive to me.
Get a launch down and hopefully youll put down a decent time, Always remember, insanity is doing the same thing over and over, expecting different results each time. (so mix it up!)
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A very big difference!!!! besides the fact that maintaining correct pressure allows the system in inject the same amount of nitrous every time.
If the system has a too low of pressure the nitrous side won't inject the correct amount of fuel and will actually richen the A/F ratio beyond what is ideal.
If the system has a too low of pressure the nitrous side won't inject the correct amount of fuel and will actually richen the A/F ratio beyond what is ideal.
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Just make it a habbit to never do this (the propane torch!)....it will be better for you and your car. A bottle heater is a much safer way to maintain pressure.
Nice numbers, Ive heard one of the larger improvements for an A4 C4 vette is getting some good gears in the rear end. really wakes them up!
I think youll be happy with the track. I normally do a cool down for an hour or so when i get there. Ive seen alot of people head from gate, to tech, to track, never shutting down...and run a low 12. Thats always impressive to me.
Get a launch down and hopefully youll put down a decent time, Always remember, insanity is doing the same thing over and over, expecting different results each time. (so mix it up!)
Nice numbers, Ive heard one of the larger improvements for an A4 C4 vette is getting some good gears in the rear end. really wakes them up!
I think youll be happy with the track. I normally do a cool down for an hour or so when i get there. Ive seen alot of people head from gate, to tech, to track, never shutting down...and run a low 12. Thats always impressive to me.
Get a launch down and hopefully youll put down a decent time, Always remember, insanity is doing the same thing over and over, expecting different results each time. (so mix it up!)
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A very big difference!!!! besides the fact that maintaining correct pressure allows the system in inject the same amount of nitrous every time.
If the system has a too low of pressure the nitrous side won't inject the correct amount of fuel and will actually richen the A/F ratio beyond what is ideal.
If the system has a too low of pressure the nitrous side won't inject the correct amount of fuel and will actually richen the A/F ratio beyond what is ideal.
#13
some people run 200 shots multiple times....some people run a 150 once and blow it up.
some people run a 100 and something goes wrong and they blow.
Tune, parts, reliable parts, nitrous "aids" all can help make nitrous safer. A progressive controller can be very helpful. Im not a nitrous pro, but the safer you make anything to use, the better off you are with it.
I wouldnt go over a 125 shot personally, but theres no gaurentee's.
some people run a 100 and something goes wrong and they blow.
Tune, parts, reliable parts, nitrous "aids" all can help make nitrous safer. A progressive controller can be very helpful. Im not a nitrous pro, but the safer you make anything to use, the better off you are with it.
I wouldnt go over a 125 shot personally, but theres no gaurentee's.
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After the cam and nitrous install, I dropped one heat range on the plugs and had the sister chip re-burnt for a hundred shot and cam combined I guess. The car idles fine at about 750rpms, off the bottle the dyno guy said it was a little fat but he had no software to change the files. I'm think about the LT1 tunercat package. Datalogging and trying changes myself on squeeze and off. Right now it seems to be running good, my main worry is popping the motor in a lean condition.
Last edited by 93 LT1 Vette; 11-21-2011 at 07:23 PM.
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Thanks, I bought it off an old lady who only drove it to church and the dragstrip on sundays. LOL Hell it has the original tires still on the factory sawblades. Of course I get a lot of **** from the Vette community because it is loud as hell, not stock and I punched holes in it for the bottle and feed line.
Gears are forth coming after Christmas and Santa is done *** raping me.
thanks again
Gears are forth coming after Christmas and Santa is done *** raping me.
thanks again
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A purge Kit is a definite must have when a long main line is used.
The reason for the kit is to get the liquid nitrous to the solenoid. Nitrous when in any kind of a expansion turns into a vapor. Nitrous that sits and heats up in the main line will eventually turn into vapor. When it does this the nitrous loses a lot of the cooling effects from the state change. Also because of the vapor the volume has changed and it no longer is injecting the same amount of nitrous.
If you want to discuss the whole nitrous "Phenomenon", or just a have question, send me a PM.
The reason for the kit is to get the liquid nitrous to the solenoid. Nitrous when in any kind of a expansion turns into a vapor. Nitrous that sits and heats up in the main line will eventually turn into vapor. When it does this the nitrous loses a lot of the cooling effects from the state change. Also because of the vapor the volume has changed and it no longer is injecting the same amount of nitrous.
If you want to discuss the whole nitrous "Phenomenon", or just a have question, send me a PM.
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A purge Kit is a definite must have when a long main line is used.
The reason for the kit is to get the liquid nitrous to the solenoid. Nitrous when in any kind of a expansion turns into a vapor. Nitrous that sits and heats up in the main line will eventually turn into vapor. When it does this the nitrous loses a lot of the cooling effects from the state change. Also because of the vapor the volume has changed and it no longer is injecting the same amount of nitrous.
If you want to discuss the whole nitrous "Phenomenon", or just a have question, send me a PM.
The reason for the kit is to get the liquid nitrous to the solenoid. Nitrous when in any kind of a expansion turns into a vapor. Nitrous that sits and heats up in the main line will eventually turn into vapor. When it does this the nitrous loses a lot of the cooling effects from the state change. Also because of the vapor the volume has changed and it no longer is injecting the same amount of nitrous.
If you want to discuss the whole nitrous "Phenomenon", or just a have question, send me a PM.