Royal Purple: Not impressed. Show me dyno results.
11-25-2011, 12:22 PM
#43
On The Tree
I've worked around oils for quite some time. I use synthetic because it needs no viscosity improvers. Take as an example 10W30. The Dino oil is actually a 10 weight oil with viscosity improvers to make it a 30 weight at operating temperature. The synthetic 10W30 is actually a 30 weight oil instead of a 10 weight because the viscosity is correct at operating temp.
The main difference is that the Dino oil will be real thick at startup on a cold day. It will be too thick to lubricate properly while the synthetic will be much better. Also, it's important to know that oil does not wear out. What is wearing out is the viscosity improvers in Dino oil. The synthetic does not have these and as such does not wear out. That's why many say that synthetic can last for extended miles. It can.
So remember that your 10W30 Dino oil is really a 10 weight and your 10W30 synthetic is actually a 30 weight. I started to learn about this several years ago. I have a little speedboat that typically sees extended runing at 5200 RPM. Maybe an hour or so.
I used to leave the boat club (when I ran regular old racing oil) and I'd have 60 PSI when the engine was cold. By the time I got to the local watering hole about 50 miles away the oil pressure was down to 38-40. I switched to synthetic and the oil pressure stayed close to 60 the whole trip. Granted that my oil temp was a bit atypical because it got up to 250 at times but from my observations synthetic is more stable at temperature extremes than dino oil. That's why I use it.
The main difference is that the Dino oil will be real thick at startup on a cold day. It will be too thick to lubricate properly while the synthetic will be much better. Also, it's important to know that oil does not wear out. What is wearing out is the viscosity improvers in Dino oil. The synthetic does not have these and as such does not wear out. That's why many say that synthetic can last for extended miles. It can.
So remember that your 10W30 Dino oil is really a 10 weight and your 10W30 synthetic is actually a 30 weight. I started to learn about this several years ago. I have a little speedboat that typically sees extended runing at 5200 RPM. Maybe an hour or so.
I used to leave the boat club (when I ran regular old racing oil) and I'd have 60 PSI when the engine was cold. By the time I got to the local watering hole about 50 miles away the oil pressure was down to 38-40. I switched to synthetic and the oil pressure stayed close to 60 the whole trip. Granted that my oil temp was a bit atypical because it got up to 250 at times but from my observations synthetic is more stable at temperature extremes than dino oil. That's why I use it.
11-25-2011, 01:25 PM
#44
Grossly oversimplified and some incorrect points.
Synthetic oils can and do wear out. Some still thin down and others like Amsoil thicken as they oxidize.
In an internal combustion engine contamination is a BIG deal and is the cause for oil changes more than oil wearing out.
Synthetic oils can and do wear out. Some still thin down and others like Amsoil thicken as they oxidize.
In an internal combustion engine contamination is a BIG deal and is the cause for oil changes more than oil wearing out.
11-25-2011, 05:01 PM
#46
1963, very well spoken, some basic facts about oils.
HOWEVER, 96caprice is correct about synthetic oils "wearing out" due to the crap accumulated from the combustion process.
Couple of smarties here, guys.
11-25-2011, 05:14 PM
#48
I'm not sure that I am on a RP band wagon, but I just use it because I always have in my vehicles..
140k miles with RP
100k miles with RP
75k miles with RP
160k miles with RP
I just use it because I haven't had any problems.....
I even have oil tests from 3 of the cars and they said "whatever you are doing, keep doing it, no problems."
140k miles with RP
100k miles with RP
75k miles with RP
160k miles with RP
I just use it because I haven't had any problems.....
I even have oil tests from 3 of the cars and they said "whatever you are doing, keep doing it, no problems."
11-25-2011, 06:10 PM
#51
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got a stock duramax torn down here with 250k miles on it. looks brand new inside other than the broken crankshaft. crosshatch is still mostly there and the piston skirt coating still looks new. rotating assembly has no staining or black color to it, and looks new. it used gm specified oil all its life changed roughly when required, and it kept the road hot @100,000 miles a year.
11-25-2011, 06:13 PM
#52
I used it for two oil changes, didn't like it. It thinned out to much around 2500 miles. Went back to Mobil 1 after that I switched to Pennzoil Platinum and tried Pennzoil Ultra. I use either Pennzoil now as the Ultra is the only oil recommended by Ferrari USA.
11-25-2011, 06:37 PM
#53
11-25-2011, 07:54 PM
#54
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I agree one of the main reasons i have for running synthetic(even the lucas additive which i got flamed for) is the fact that they just flat out take more heat, can anybody put that down? Like i said before to each his own. I would like to read these negative articles about lucas and RP, can anyone direct me to them? Thanks.
11-25-2011, 08:16 PM
#55
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my thing is this.... any given day you can walk into a parts store and listen to someone jabber about why they wont run valvoline or mobil and pennzoil is the best. how do they know??? have they run each oil on an identical engine 100k miles, done a teardown on each, and come to a conclusion? or are they just going by their own "hunch" and making crap up?
truth be known, all those common oils would most likely work just fine in that engine for 100k miles. it has always seemed a waste of time picking apart oils for a street car engine that couldnt care less what was in it. race engine with different tolerances/rpms/loads/heat/etc. i can see the need, but 90% of people should worry more about replacing their wiper blades, imo.
truth be known, all those common oils would most likely work just fine in that engine for 100k miles. it has always seemed a waste of time picking apart oils for a street car engine that couldnt care less what was in it. race engine with different tolerances/rpms/loads/heat/etc. i can see the need, but 90% of people should worry more about replacing their wiper blades, imo.
11-25-2011, 08:43 PM
#57
No flaming....just some gentle nudging...
There was a video of the Lucas additive in that clear box with gears and a hand crank. Putting in some Lucas Stabilizer made the oil foam to the top of the box. It was an eye opener for me as I used it in everything. I can no longer find this video anywhere...
Look at it this way: Lubricant engineers go to great lengths to get their package right. Putting in some off the shelf additive throws it all out the window.
I'll bet if you called RP, they'd say no additives should be put in their oils.
There was a video of the Lucas additive in that clear box with gears and a hand crank. Putting in some Lucas Stabilizer made the oil foam to the top of the box. It was an eye opener for me as I used it in everything. I can no longer find this video anywhere...
Look at it this way: Lubricant engineers go to great lengths to get their package right. Putting in some off the shelf additive throws it all out the window.
I'll bet if you called RP, they'd say no additives should be put in their oils.
11-25-2011, 08:45 PM
#58
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I always forget to change my wiper blades, and then bam!! it starts to rain. now driving with rain only half wiped off and dark at night.... I think this might be worse than running a crappy oil!! lol
11-25-2011, 08:57 PM
#59
I found a few things.
Good reading: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...1907365&page=1
And not videos but good pics and descriptions: http://web.archive.org/web/201009261...ucas/lucas.htm
Good reading: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...1907365&page=1
And not videos but good pics and descriptions: http://web.archive.org/web/201009261...ucas/lucas.htm
