10.8 volts at idle when warm.
11-26-2011, 10:49 PM
#1
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
Posts: 441
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
10.8 volts at idle when warm. Is this normal? 14.4 volts off idle but sitting in traffic after the car warms up it drops down to 10.8 volts.
11-26-2011, 11:26 PM
#3
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
Posts: 441
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thankyou sir. 700rpms in drive at normal operating temp of 195 degrees coolant temp. I noticed the blinkers were cycling very slowly the other morning at a corner in town. when I looking at the voltage gauge it was close to the red. when I got home I metered the alternator, it's output was 10.8. I was wornout so I didn't disconnect the battery at idle to see if would die.
Last edited by 93 LT1 Vette; 11-26-2011 at 11:36 PM.
11-27-2011, 01:36 AM
#5
Staging Lane
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Creighton saskatchewan Canada.
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do a charging system check after you check all the cables, make sure the battery isn't to old, see if it will hold a charge when sitting unhooked.
11-27-2011, 08:57 AM
#6
TECH Veteran
11-27-2011, 10:24 AM
#7
TECH Regular
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just had a somewhat similar alternator problem a few months back. My problem was sort of like yours, except my voltage would fluctuate every few minutes between 10ish and 14ish volts while idling.
My cables and connections were all clean and tight, but my problem was with my alternator. There's an electrical stud that sticks out of the back of it that had come loose. Even though the nut that was holding the big wire to the stud was tight, I still had a bad connection. Ended up having to remove the alternator, open it up, and tighten the stud back down from the inside.
Fairly quick and easy fix, except when I had to get the brushes and springs held down with a paperclip so that I could put the two halves of the alternator back together-- that was kind of tricky.
My cables and connections were all clean and tight, but my problem was with my alternator. There's an electrical stud that sticks out of the back of it that had come loose. Even though the nut that was holding the big wire to the stud was tight, I still had a bad connection. Ended up having to remove the alternator, open it up, and tighten the stud back down from the inside.
Fairly quick and easy fix, except when I had to get the brushes and springs held down with a paperclip so that I could put the two halves of the alternator back together-- that was kind of tricky.
Trending Topics
11-27-2011, 03:07 PM
#9
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
Posts: 441
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I took it down to Autozone to see if it was the alternator. It tested good along with the battery. Now I'm wondering if it could be an underdrive pulley. The car had an airfoil installed on it to my surprise. How can I identify an underdrive pulley by visually looking?
11-27-2011, 03:57 PM
#10
Staging Lane
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Creighton saskatchewan Canada.
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good one SS RRR, I would say if not cables/connections then underdrive pulley. How has it been before and underdrive pulley doesn't cause problem later, would have been that way as soon a pulley was put on. How old is the battery because an older battery won't except a charge as good as a new battery does, so the problem would have been fine before with pulley but not as time goes on.
11-27-2011, 05:01 PM
#11
Village Troll 
iTrader: (2)
I took it down to Autozone to see if it was the alternator. It tested good along with the battery. Now I'm wondering if it could be an underdrive pulley. The car had an airfoil installed on it to my surprise. How can I identify an underdrive pulley by visually looking?
