Balancer Hub Removal Help Needed
#1
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Balancer Hub Removal Help Needed
Hey guys I am having the hardest time removing my harmonic balancer hub. I have removed them before and never had this much trouble. I have even bent some grade 8 bolts under the pressure. I have torn the crank threads up past the point of I dont care. I have a spare I can use or I could always hunt for a used one. The engine is getting tore down for a rebuild. Anyways I have used a jaw puller, harmonic balancer removal tool.
So I was wondering if I could heat it up. I need to get it off to get my timing set,cam,timing cover for the other motor.
Any ideas to get this out?
So I was wondering if I could heat it up. I need to get it off to get my timing set,cam,timing cover for the other motor.
Any ideas to get this out?
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My setup is like this except with a pry bar to hold the motor.
http://www.lt1engine.com/tech/remove...lt1-crank-hub/
I have removed theses plenty of times before. I am wondering if the balancer I used is causing the problem. This is a 94 block with a 96 balancer/timing cover etc. These have always come off in about 20 seconds after setup. I have been stuck now for 6 hours on it. I will be hunting for a new crank/hub assembly. I just want my hotcam/timing cover/timing chain off of this motor.
Still having trouble since the smaller bolt bends and its a grade 8 bolt. A same size bolt drills into the crank. Thinking of getting a much bigger heat and trying it again.
Any other ideas.
http://www.lt1engine.com/tech/remove...lt1-crank-hub/
I have removed theses plenty of times before. I am wondering if the balancer I used is causing the problem. This is a 94 block with a 96 balancer/timing cover etc. These have always come off in about 20 seconds after setup. I have been stuck now for 6 hours on it. I will be hunting for a new crank/hub assembly. I just want my hotcam/timing cover/timing chain off of this motor.
Still having trouble since the smaller bolt bends and its a grade 8 bolt. A same size bolt drills into the crank. Thinking of getting a much bigger heat and trying it again.
Any other ideas.
#6
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just looked at that animation and i am suprised it had ever worked for you without destroying the crank threads or bottoming out. use an old pushrod instead of a bolt. doesnt have to be a hardened one as i used it to remove some that were rusted on in a junkyard without bending them up. also advance auto can loan you this same tool with the 2 different length pushrods.
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#9
If you take a good look the three threaded holes in the crank hub are not symmetrical. It's hard to get the center of the puller lined up with the center of the hub with the above puller. I used a Snap On three armed puller with the arms removed and bolts through the puller's hub to the crank hub. Came right off.
Al 95 Z28
Al 95 Z28
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The removal tool has enough play to make it line up. So does the jaw puller. We have the bolt dead on its place and it still wont budge. I have a buddy bringing some real heat tomorrow. Hopefully it will come off. If not its getting cut off.
Also like I have stated before its not my first time removing this piece. I usually have it setup and off in 5 mins of less.
Also like I have stated before its not my first time removing this piece. I usually have it setup and off in 5 mins of less.
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There is not a key in the key way (there is a key way just no key). There is only a key in the timing gear and reluctor ring if it has a crank position sensor. I made a special tool that NEVER fails me. It's a half inch piece of steel plate that is cut into a circle with three holes for the hubs outside bolts and then one hole in the middle with a nut welded onto that hole and a piece of all thread ran through it.
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Well got it off. Borrowed a Map gas torch on it. After some time and some force it broke free. It looked like it had spun on the crank and cut a grove in the crank. Its off and getting replaced.