Looking for some stall advice and brand reccomendation
#1
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From: Terre Haute, Indiana
Looking for some stall advice and brand reccomendation
first build and have a few small upgrades on my 93 formula. (black)
Mild cam
springs
headers
small ignition upgrades
performance chip
i have been told since i bought my cam that i should buy a stall. was looking for advice on range and brand power. also would be looking to buy a used one if anyone should just have it lying around. for the performance of my engine, I was told that a 3200 rpm stall would be a great idea. 4l60e 3 speed. 373 gears.
gimme an idea of good price ranges and what brands i should look for, and what kind of options help a newbie.
thanks for looking and the good advice
Mild cam
springs
headers
small ignition upgrades
performance chip
i have been told since i bought my cam that i should buy a stall. was looking for advice on range and brand power. also would be looking to buy a used one if anyone should just have it lying around. for the performance of my engine, I was told that a 3200 rpm stall would be a great idea. 4l60e 3 speed. 373 gears.
gimme an idea of good price ranges and what brands i should look for, and what kind of options help a newbie.
thanks for looking and the good advice
#2
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From: Carbondale, PA
Alot of people are running 3600 stalls on stock cars with no cam or gear changes. So for someone to randomly throw out 3200 as a stall speed is assanine. For people to give you stall speed suggestions you will be better off listing your cam specs so that they can be more accurate with their suggestions. Not being a dick in anyway just trying to help. Some good brand converters are precision industries, yank, or performabuilt. Usually a converter is a "you get what you pay for" performance part, although many have had luck with the cheaper tci, b and m, or Hughes converters. Oh and the 4l60e is a 4 speed transmission. You will also want to decide if you want a lock up or non lock up converter
#3
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what year is your car? reason i ask, if it has a 4l60e, it won't have a "chip" and if it has a "chip" it won't have a 4l60e. only 93's used a chip and they had a 4l60, not a 4l60e
i had a performabuilt 3200 stall when my car was still auto. i loved it, but after 2 trips to the track i was wishing i'd gone with at least a 3600. and that was with a stock cam. so for you, i'd say a yank ss3600 at the minimum
i had a performabuilt 3200 stall when my car was still auto. i loved it, but after 2 trips to the track i was wishing i'd gone with at least a 3600. and that was with a stock cam. so for you, i'd say a yank ss3600 at the minimum
#5
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first build and have a few small upgrades on my 93 formula. (black)
Mild cam
springs
headers
small ignition upgrades
performance chip
i have been told since i bought my cam that i should buy a stall. was looking for advice on range and brand power. also would be looking to buy a used one if anyone should just have it lying around. for the performance of my engine, I was told that a 3200 rpm stall would be a great idea. 4l60e 3 speed. 373 gears.
gimme an idea of good price ranges and what brands i should look for, and what kind of options help a newbie.
thanks for looking and the good advice
Mild cam
springs
headers
small ignition upgrades
performance chip
i have been told since i bought my cam that i should buy a stall. was looking for advice on range and brand power. also would be looking to buy a used one if anyone should just have it lying around. for the performance of my engine, I was told that a 3200 rpm stall would be a great idea. 4l60e 3 speed. 373 gears.
gimme an idea of good price ranges and what brands i should look for, and what kind of options help a newbie.
thanks for looking and the good advice
#6
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From: Terre Haute, Indiana
it is a 93 body, and i assumed it was an "e" like i said im not super aware of the small differences in naming. my cam however is a comp cam 07-304-8
which means int. 210 @.050 .3340 lobe lift
ex. 220@.050 .3420 lobe lift
and i understand this question may have been asked and answered before, ill take any advice and am glad for corrections so i can not sound like an idiot next time
which means int. 210 @.050 .3340 lobe lift
ex. 220@.050 .3420 lobe lift
and i understand this question may have been asked and answered before, ill take any advice and am glad for corrections so i can not sound like an idiot next time
#7
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'93 has a 700r4/4L60
VIGILANTE
YANK
MIDWEST
CIRCLE D
Are the converters I have experience with....Can't go wrong with either of these manufacturers. The minimum I would ever use is a 2800 stall, if the cam is in the 220-248 range a 3600-4500 may be needed for best results..
VIGILANTE
YANK
MIDWEST
CIRCLE D
Are the converters I have experience with....Can't go wrong with either of these manufacturers. The minimum I would ever use is a 2800 stall, if the cam is in the 220-248 range a 3600-4500 may be needed for best results..
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#8
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From: Terre Haute, Indiana
and for this build i will consider, and most likely have to used a pre-used stall. so if you have a hot tip on one or have one to sell yourself i will for sure look at it. was just looking on ebay and prices seemed to be a bit low as far as what i had heard they costed.
#11
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Welcome to the forum, Terren.
I spent 4 yrs in Terre Haute a long time ago - over at RHIT. The Racing Club had a gutted Turbo Buick that we ran at the Action Track.
All sound advice you've gotten in this thread so far.
A few more reputable brands are: Coan, Edge, and PTC (the Alabama one).
How much priority do you place on turning a good ET at the track? That, and your willingness to do the suspension and tires to hook it up, will determine how aggressive to go on stall.
I ran a Yank SS3600 in my 4000 lb ImpalaSS with just the stock cam, and it pulled off outstanding ET/mph and drove great. But, as was said above, not all 3600's will behave the same. That SS series happens to be a very efficient "tight coupled" converter even at low rpm/ low torque input.
Even so, if I weren't interested in ET's, I'd pick lower.
For your cam, I'd be looking at 3000-3200 if you think you'll never see the strip with sticky tires, 4000 if ET is your priority, and anywhere in between those extremes depending on brand of converter and your objectives.
I spent 4 yrs in Terre Haute a long time ago - over at RHIT. The Racing Club had a gutted Turbo Buick that we ran at the Action Track.
All sound advice you've gotten in this thread so far.
A few more reputable brands are: Coan, Edge, and PTC (the Alabama one).
How much priority do you place on turning a good ET at the track? That, and your willingness to do the suspension and tires to hook it up, will determine how aggressive to go on stall.
I ran a Yank SS3600 in my 4000 lb ImpalaSS with just the stock cam, and it pulled off outstanding ET/mph and drove great. But, as was said above, not all 3600's will behave the same. That SS series happens to be a very efficient "tight coupled" converter even at low rpm/ low torque input.
Even so, if I weren't interested in ET's, I'd pick lower.
For your cam, I'd be looking at 3000-3200 if you think you'll never see the strip with sticky tires, 4000 if ET is your priority, and anywhere in between those extremes depending on brand of converter and your objectives.
#12
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From: Terre Haute, Indiana
Welcome to the forum, Terren.
I spent 4 yrs in Terre Haute a long time ago - over at RHIT. The Racing Club had a gutted Turbo Buick that we ran at the Action Track.
All sound advice you've gotten in this thread so far.
A few more reputable brands are: Coan, Edge, and PTC (the Alabama one).
How much priority do you place on turning a good ET at the track? That, and your willingness to do the suspension and tires to hook it up, will determine how aggressive to go on stall.
I ran a Yank SS3600 in my 4000 lb ImpalaSS with just the stock cam, and it pulled off outstanding ET/mph and drove great. But, as was said above, not all 3600's will behave the same. That SS series happens to be a very efficient "tight coupled" converter even at low rpm/ low torque input.
Even so, if I weren't interested in ET's, I'd pick lower.
For your cam, I'd be looking at 3000-3200 if you think you'll never see the strip with sticky tires, 4000 if ET is your priority, and anywhere in between those extremes depending on brand of converter and your objectives.
I spent 4 yrs in Terre Haute a long time ago - over at RHIT. The Racing Club had a gutted Turbo Buick that we ran at the Action Track.
All sound advice you've gotten in this thread so far.
A few more reputable brands are: Coan, Edge, and PTC (the Alabama one).
How much priority do you place on turning a good ET at the track? That, and your willingness to do the suspension and tires to hook it up, will determine how aggressive to go on stall.
I ran a Yank SS3600 in my 4000 lb ImpalaSS with just the stock cam, and it pulled off outstanding ET/mph and drove great. But, as was said above, not all 3600's will behave the same. That SS series happens to be a very efficient "tight coupled" converter even at low rpm/ low torque input.
Even so, if I weren't interested in ET's, I'd pick lower.
For your cam, I'd be looking at 3000-3200 if you think you'll never see the strip with sticky tires, 4000 if ET is your priority, and anywhere in between those extremes depending on brand of converter and your objectives.
#13
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One thing I always forget, since I run a B-body with ample factory cooling, is an upgrade to your stock tranny cooling when increasing the stall.
Depending on brand and stall speed you may or may not need to consider that.
I'll leave those recommendations for you to the F-body guys on here.
Depending on brand and stall speed you may or may not need to consider that.
I'll leave those recommendations for you to the F-body guys on here.
#16
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From: Terre Haute, Indiana
i got to looking at edge ones, i found the recommended one for my car, and they custom build it after a heap of questions. price was ~ 545 with a two year warranty. thats about mid range on price just wanted to see what the general opinion was for those converters.