I've been a lurker on here for a long time, finally decided to post and let you guys critique my build. It's going in a '96 Z28 A4/t-top car with 56,000 miles. I picked it up as a roller and am building the drivetrain out of my '94 Z28 (Body was toast) to go in the CLEAN '96.

So here's my direction, so far. I'm doing this on a budget, both out of necessity and because it's fun. Anybody can build a fast car with deep pocket books. Mine won't be fast, but it should be a fun street car. That's the goal. I realize my combo isn't ideal for performance or longevity, but in my head it's a decent compromise. I'm sure you'll disagree, and I look forward to hearing your input.

Bottom End: Bone stock. 4.000 bore, all stock internals. For now.

Cylinder Heads: Also bone stock. My cam choice should match the stock heads nicely, and I don't want to spin my stock rotating assembly fast enough to take advantage of anything bigger. Stock valves, will have them cleaned and pressure checked. Mr. Gasket 5716G .026" thick head gaskets will be used.

Camshaft: LT4 Hotcam 218/228 dur. at .050", .525/.525 with 1.6rr's I got the cam/lifters with 1200 miles of craigslist for $150.

Pushrods: Alex's Parts/Elgin Hardened 0.080" thick 7.200" I realize I may need a different length. I fully intend on using a pushrod length checker and verifying after my longblock is assembled.
http://www.alexsparts.com/pushrods-7...-w-hyd-roller/

Guideplates: GMPP 14011051

Rocker Arms: Scored a set of Comp steel NSA 1.6rr's for $40 off craigslist.

Valve Springs: Alex's Parts, 130lbs+ @ 1.780" installed height, 330-345lbs at max lift for my set up. Nowhere near coil bind. I haven't found too much info on actual experiences with these springs, but everything I HAVE found has been positive. I realize springs aren't a good area to skimp, but I also realize that these springs likely came from the same factory as the big names. I'm willing to be the guinea pig.
http://www.alexsparts.com/lt1-valve-...rs-locks-cups/

External/Drivetrain:

Pacesetter Ceramic Lt's: $200 craigslist score
More than likely just x-pipe exhaust behind the trans and dump before the rear axle with two cheap welded mufflers. If I don't like it it's easy to change.
Ebay intake, stock throttlebody and manifold. No EGR or AIR
Stock opti until I have the $ for an LTCC and coils.
RevMax 3600 Stall Converter
Mild 4l60e trans.
Car came with 4.10's in the stock 10bolt. I will prob run that till it blows or I get around to building my other 10bolt with the strange 3.42's I have laying around.
Haven't worked out my tune yet, but I have access to tunercat so I'm not too concerned.

Any suggestions/comment/criticism is welcomed, but it will probably be ignored.

 

Everything sounds real good in the guidelines and spirit of a budget build. The LTCC is the only thing that sticks out like a sore thumb. Cost per advantage/effectiveness on a setup like yours is not worth it (IMO). Opti spark distributor is more than enough for yours and most other setups (much more radical). Good luck with the build and keep us updated

 

Why even make a thread then?..Anyways, I'd have to agree with 1badzee,everything sounds good but you'll be fine running an opti. And I wish the craigslist here in Indy was boomin' with parts like yours is haha.

 

Thanks for the input guys, the LTCC is along way down on the priority list. I'm working on a budget setup to run a 411 on an Lt1 too, but that's a long way off as well.

Formula- That was a joke...it just seems like the norm for guys to post a list of part numbers from the summit catalog then get upset when the response is less than positive.

 

The 4.11 seem a little deep for an a4...i personally love the 3.73's. I was also thinking of trying out the Rev Max converter, let us know how that works out for you. Thanks

 

Does anyone know if ARP rocker studs are necessary with the reasonable spring pressure and rocker arm ratio I'm running? They are the smaller 3/8" studs...

 

Looks like all your missing is a T56

 

I would clean up the heads a little bit right around the valve guide area. If you have access to the right air tools this would be an easy weekend project. People will always come in here and say "don't do that" but it's really not that hard to do. I've done it on some iron "fuelie" heads and it was a chore, lol, but aluminum heads are a piece of cake. Porting the heads is a whole different ball game, don't do that. The heads would pick up a little bit of flow. Get a good valve job while you have everything apart.

Go from this:




To this:



To this:




Just a little streamlining around the guide is all you want to do. Just be careful not to hit the valve seat.

 

Joelster- Thanks for the tip, I might do that. I ported heads in school (UNOH) and it was enough for me to know that I don't want to do it ever again. I got decent gains, but it's too much work and I struggle with maintaining consistency from port to port. I definately overlooked the valve job, good call.

 

The bowl area, short turn, and valve job is where the easy HP is at!

 

You could do the valve guide area in a few hours per head. When you ported heads at UNOH were they iron or aluminum?

 

I started on an iron sbc head but got pissed after a half hour and brought an aluminum 16 valve head in to work on. Aluminum is definitely easier to work with.

 

Looks good, let me know how the 4.10's drive. Ive been wanting to do gears and cant deceide on 3.73 or 4.10....3.73's would be more practical!

 

trilkb, I'll try to keep you updated. I have a feeling the 4.10's are going to make 1st gear useless on my cheap street tires, they're going to hurt my highway mpg really bad, so I don't foresee me keeping them for very long.

Joelster, I'm not really a numbers guy, but do you have any estimate on what cleaning up the guide areas is worth?

 

Sounds like a great budget build. Revmax 3400 here and zero complaints!

 

5cfm? Maybe a little more. It's just labor though, consider it a "free" mod.

The valve job can get you much more than that.

 

Reconsidering the 5716G's after reading this...https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...s-how-bad.html

 

Victor Reinz has a .026" thick gasket too (actually the same as the Mr. Gasket one) I think they package them better than Mr. G. Pricing is about the same either way.

 

VR 5898's it is, thanks for the heads up 1961!

 

Happy to help.