has anyone had any issues with putting the oil sensor on the canton 7qt oil pan? My hooker headers seem to be in the way

 

If you are referring to the 242t pan it is a six quart pan and yes, you will not be able to use your oil level sensor with most long tube headers. You'll have to deal with it the old fashion way and check your oil regularly.
Even then, that particular pan puts the oil level lower therefore your dipstick will not read accurately. I know mine's full when the level is right around the "A" in add on the dipstick.

 

mine fit with pacesetter and now edelbrock LTs. I haven't had it plugged in for awhile, sensors go bad whereas looking at fluid on a dipstick is foolproof. I believe canon makes a plug for it.

SS RRR- if its only a 6qt pan, why does the oil level read low with 6 qts? wouldnt this suggest it is a 7 qt pan as advertised? just curious, i only run 5 qts total in mine.

 

You mean 6 quart as advertised right?
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...on&key=15-242T

 

I mistakenly thought it was a 7qt pan, filled it as such and had horrible windage issues. Even after running 6qts I still had windage problems and now run 5.5 quarts in mine via the advice of Javier. My best guess regarding oil level is because of the wide sump design.

 

 

Glad I stumbled in on this thread. My buddy is having oil level issues/concerns with his Canton pan.

 

Thanks guys....I normally check the old the old fashion way, just want the oil light to turn off

 

yea i had the windage issues with 6qts before, just shows how terrible the oil control is in this pan with the oil level 1" below stock. I went to a milodon windage tray and junked the canton screen. Had no issues after that with 6 qts but not having any issues with 5 either.

 

If you want the light to turn off complete the loop with a section or wire or cut off the plug and spice them together as it is a simple loop to the light on the dash - that is all. Best bet is to always check your dipstick anyway.

 

I have a Canton 242t for sale if anyone wants it. I cut the crank scraper to clear the splayed mains but other than that its brand new. $250 shipped.
Im using a Milodon 30909 now to fit my oil pump. The Milodon doesnt have a sensor bung so Im glad its just splicing and connecting the wires! Good info there!

 

Per your statement above, how can you tell that you are having windage problems? I just installed the same pan on my car. During this application the stock dipstick was chewed off and had been broken on the tip. After removing the pan to retrieve the pieces, I have reinstalled the pan with no dipstick.

Should I also be running 5.5 quarts as well with this pan? Also what is the best thing to do about a dipstick now? Thanks in advance for the help.

 

I run a universal 1/4"npt braided dipstick with a bushing and stuck it in the oil temp bung on the passenger side kickout. You need a Nippon style starter to do this I imagine. Then fill it with 6 qts, and cut down the dipstick until it reads full. The dipstick before trimming will stick way down in the pan, don't trim the tube, trim the stick. My windage tray was not trimmed properly for the dipstick in the traditional location. A header bolt with lots of silicone seals the hole in the block just fine.

 

Thanks for the help... May be a dumb question but what are you referring to as the oil temp bung that you used? I'm not familiar with what your talking about.

 

1/2"npt bung on the top of the passenger side kickout. Maybe they don't have it on their newer pans?

 

If you lose pressure dramatically at WOT then your pump is cavitating. Problem is some of the stock oil sending units are slow to read this. Mine would over around 40psi. I used a mechanical gauge and could then see it slam to 20psi at WOT. Put in six quarts and do a few WOT runs to see what your stock gauge does.