Road Racing/Autox Cam Selection
05-26-2012, 07:56 AM
#61
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First: forget the motor. You need more hp like you need a hole in the head right now. Suspension, you have done. Add some DOT legal race tires and some good brake pads and go have some fun.
Than go out and get LOTS of seat time. You got to fix the nut behind the wheel first.
I totally support the suspension work and you need something that can stop and can stick, but the last thing you need is more hp until you learn to control what you have.
Than go out and get LOTS of seat time. You got to fix the nut behind the wheel first.
I totally support the suspension work and you need something that can stop and can stick, but the last thing you need is more hp until you learn to control what you have.
05-26-2012, 09:29 AM
#62
You must be familiar with my car since I didn't post any numbers here 
- but I got 370rwhp with AI's cam, some extra compression (mill and gaskets), a little cleanup around the valve bowls (NO porting), pacesetter headers, 3" true duals, EWP, and an LS1 lid conversion. Thas' it n thas all. 350 rwtq across the board.
- but I got 370rwhp with AI's cam, some extra compression (mill and gaskets), a little cleanup around the valve bowls (NO porting), pacesetter headers, 3" true duals, EWP, and an LS1 lid conversion. Thas' it n thas all. 350 rwtq across the board.. 
05-26-2012, 10:53 AM
#64
I've been running my electric water pump for 3-4 years now. Its never run hot for me while autocrossing or on the road course (continuous on/off full throttle in 3rd). The last time i was on a road course was probably an 80 degree day and i was overheating my powersteering constantly but the coolant temps stayed right where they were supposed to
05-26-2012, 11:55 AM
#65
I've been running my electric water pump for 3-4 years now. Its never run hot for me while autocrossing or on the road course (continuous on/off full throttle in 3rd). The last time i was on a road course was probably an 80 degree day and i was overheating my powersteering constantly but the coolant temps stayed right where they were supposed to
05-26-2012, 01:56 PM
#68
You most certainly can. This is my dad's car and this is through a stock ls1 intake manifold and stock catback. Off the shelf 212/218 115lsa comp cam that sounds and behaves exactly like the stock cam did. LS1's will make just as much low end torque. The only difference is they actually gain torque throughout the run instead of not gaining anything. 
05-26-2012, 02:38 PM
#70
I run a 305@114lsa on my 355ci. Great so far for AutoX, but I can imagine it running out of breath past 5500 on a long straight on a road course like Road America.
Great on the street for just cruising and playing around a bit as well. This will be the last summer I use it though. I going with the AI head and 226/234 cam combo most likely.
Great on the street for just cruising and playing around a bit as well. This will be the last summer I use it though. I going with the AI head and 226/234 cam combo most likely.
05-26-2012, 03:22 PM
#71
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I will try once more than I will leave you to your fate.
Forget the motor. Spend your money on brake rotors, brake pads, race tires, cooling ducts to the brakes, a cooler for the PS pump, a deep idler pulley to avoid throwing your belt, high temp brake fluid, a really good torque arm (more to avoid tramp on braking than acceleration), rod ended lcas, rod ended panhard rod, a splitter (can be simply an extension of the air dam closer to the ground), a roll bar and door bar it not the full halo, a lighter race seat with cutouts for a harness, a harness, and a good fire extinguisher, an adjustable lexan rear wing can't hurt and get rid of the passenger seat and the back seat seatback.
If you have any money left get a Hans device. No reason to separate your head from your shoulders unless you don't value it.
Now that I have spent all your money you won't have to talk about cams any more. <g>
You will hurt the motor soon enough and that is the time for the rebuild
BTW, to anyone that has spent much time on a track this whole thread is absolutely ridiculous but sadly is predictable.
A much better question to ask is not "what cam do I need?" but "What do I need?". And ask it on FRRAX not LS1tech.com.
Perry
Forget the motor. Spend your money on brake rotors, brake pads, race tires, cooling ducts to the brakes, a cooler for the PS pump, a deep idler pulley to avoid throwing your belt, high temp brake fluid, a really good torque arm (more to avoid tramp on braking than acceleration), rod ended lcas, rod ended panhard rod, a splitter (can be simply an extension of the air dam closer to the ground), a roll bar and door bar it not the full halo, a lighter race seat with cutouts for a harness, a harness, and a good fire extinguisher, an adjustable lexan rear wing can't hurt and get rid of the passenger seat and the back seat seatback.
If you have any money left get a Hans device. No reason to separate your head from your shoulders unless you don't value it.
Now that I have spent all your money you won't have to talk about cams any more. <g>
You will hurt the motor soon enough and that is the time for the rebuild
BTW, to anyone that has spent much time on a track this whole thread is absolutely ridiculous but sadly is predictable.
A much better question to ask is not "what cam do I need?" but "What do I need?". And ask it on FRRAX not LS1tech.com.
Perry
Last edited by pkincy; 05-26-2012 at 03:34 PM.
05-26-2012, 06:04 PM
#72
I appreciate your concerns and advice
and for that I thank you
I am in the middle of an entire car rebuild. Its not going to see the ground for at least another year. I'm currently finishing up the underside of the car, this next year will be motor and interior stuff along with new paint. I would like to pick up a HANS Device and a few other saftey items before this thing hits the track.
Current Mods list includes:
Strano Hollow Front Sway Bar
Strano Adjustable Hollow Rear Sway Bar
Strano Lowering Springs
Koni 4/3 Adjustable Sport Shocks
Energy Suspensions "Jeep" bumpstops
Custom Built t56 Crossmember w/torque arm relocation
UMI Adjustable Full Length Torque Arm
UMI Roto/Roto Double Adjustable LCA's
UMI Roto/Roto Double Adjustable PHB
Baer "claw" Track brake kit w/13" rotors
Baer Eradispeed Rear Rotors
Hawk HPS pads all around
Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines All Around
SJM ABS Delete Kit (Wilwood proportioning valve) with Line Lock (just for fun)
Power Steering Cooler
Fan Switch
160* Thermostat
Throttle Body Bypass
Factory Ram-Air Box
A.I.R. and EGR Delete
OBX Stainless 1 3/4" to 1 7/8" Stepped Long Tube Headers
Stainless ARP Header Bolts
CSR EWP (may not install tho)
MOMO Steering wheel
Poly Motor Mounts
Rag Joint Eliminator
Magnaflow Catback
Madz28.com tune
MSD wires
MSD coil
Driveshaft saftey loop
Granatelli Subframe Connectors
Founders STB (still might design my own)
Need to buy:
4-315/35/17 tires
4 17x11 ZR1 DD wheels from Oewheelsllc.com
wheel Spacers if needed
ARP Wheel Studs All Around
Hi Temp Brake and Power Steering Fluid
MOMO steering wheel adapter
Roll Bar
Cipher Viper Racing Seats
Harnesses
Engine Rebuild (with parts talked about in this thread)
Throttle Body and Injectors if necessary
Clutch and Flywheel
New Engine Coolant
Tuning Software w/chip burning equipment
Gauges including wideband
Splitter
I do like the idea of adding a fire extinguisher
Racetronix Fuel Pump kit with harness
Heated Oxygen Sensor conversion
Possibly a Pulley Kit, but havent researched it much yet
possibly tow hooks but im undecided.
Battery Relocation
weight reduction where ever possible
Im sure my list will change as I go, always does LOL
The motor has roughly 150-160k and was pushing out a little blue smoke when I stopped driveing it a few years ago. Along with that, after a day or two of driveing around town, the entire back of the car would have a thin layer of oily film covering it. The motor NEEDS a rebuild. 
I have this exact thread started over on FRRAX and have recieved very little responses. I have spent many hours researching what I should get as far as mods for this setup. I have tried upgrading everything thus far. As I have stated before, I am making a few comprimises due to my desires with the car, such as keeping both seats, the radio, and a few other street/vanity oriented items. This is mainly because this car will see some miles on the street, just not many. If I get hooked to the track, I will try to be more competitve in a better car. This is just a car I want to build for fun, that has most of the autox/road racing equipment.
and for that I thank youForget the motor. Spend your money on brake rotors, brake pads, race tires, cooling ducts to the brakes, a cooler for the PS pump, a deep idler pulley to avoid throwing your belt, high temp brake fluid, a really good torque arm (more to avoid tramp on braking than acceleration), rod ended lcas, rod ended panhard rod, a splitter (can be simply an extension of the air dam closer to the ground), a roll bar and door bar it not the full halo, a lighter race seat with cutouts for a harness, a harness, and a good fire extinguisher, an adjustable lexan rear wing can't hurt and get rid of the passenger seat and the back seat seatback.
If you have any money left get a Hans device. No reason to separate your head from your shoulders unless you don't value it.
If you have any money left get a Hans device. No reason to separate your head from your shoulders unless you don't value it.
Current Mods list includes:
Strano Hollow Front Sway Bar
Strano Adjustable Hollow Rear Sway Bar
Strano Lowering Springs
Koni 4/3 Adjustable Sport Shocks
Energy Suspensions "Jeep" bumpstops
Custom Built t56 Crossmember w/torque arm relocation
UMI Adjustable Full Length Torque Arm
UMI Roto/Roto Double Adjustable LCA's
UMI Roto/Roto Double Adjustable PHB
Baer "claw" Track brake kit w/13" rotors
Baer Eradispeed Rear Rotors
Hawk HPS pads all around
Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines All Around
SJM ABS Delete Kit (Wilwood proportioning valve) with Line Lock (just for fun)
Power Steering Cooler
Fan Switch
160* Thermostat
Throttle Body Bypass
Factory Ram-Air Box
A.I.R. and EGR Delete
OBX Stainless 1 3/4" to 1 7/8" Stepped Long Tube Headers
Stainless ARP Header Bolts
CSR EWP (may not install tho)
MOMO Steering wheel
Poly Motor Mounts
Rag Joint Eliminator
Magnaflow Catback
Madz28.com tune
MSD wires
MSD coil
Driveshaft saftey loop
Granatelli Subframe Connectors
Founders STB (still might design my own)
Need to buy:
4-315/35/17 tires
4 17x11 ZR1 DD wheels from Oewheelsllc.com
wheel Spacers if needed
ARP Wheel Studs All Around
Hi Temp Brake and Power Steering Fluid
MOMO steering wheel adapter
Roll Bar
Cipher Viper Racing Seats
Harnesses
Engine Rebuild (with parts talked about in this thread)
Throttle Body and Injectors if necessary
Clutch and Flywheel
New Engine Coolant
Tuning Software w/chip burning equipment
Gauges including wideband
Splitter
I do like the idea of adding a fire extinguisher
Racetronix Fuel Pump kit with harness
Heated Oxygen Sensor conversion
Possibly a Pulley Kit, but havent researched it much yet
possibly tow hooks but im undecided.
Battery Relocation
weight reduction where ever possible
Im sure my list will change as I go, always does LOL
05-26-2012, 09:40 PM
#73
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Unfortunately FRRAX is not at all active any longer. I guess the popularity of the 3rd and 4th gen as track/road racing/Ax machines is not as great as it once was.
Sounds like you are going to have a great car and a fun project and are also doing most of the things that really need doing as well as building the motor.
Given what you are going to have in your car when you are finished picking up a beater for a season to actually run at the track may be worth it.
A friend and I bought an ex SCCA SSGT 4th gen Camaro for $6000 one season. We took turns running it in CMC for most of the year and than sold it towards the end of the season for $6500 after redoing the brakes a bit for the extra $500.
Once I decided I wanted to really run CMC than I spent the money to build my car up. The 93 that is now sold and is still running CMC in Texas somewhere, I hear.
Of course that was because I wanted to make sure I wanted to actually get a competition license and spend the $10-12 grand a year it takes to run 10 actual races. So far you haven't caught that bug.
Watch out this track stuff is addicting.
Good luck on the build. That work alone is immensely satisfying.
Perry
Sounds like you are going to have a great car and a fun project and are also doing most of the things that really need doing as well as building the motor.
Given what you are going to have in your car when you are finished picking up a beater for a season to actually run at the track may be worth it.
A friend and I bought an ex SCCA SSGT 4th gen Camaro for $6000 one season. We took turns running it in CMC for most of the year and than sold it towards the end of the season for $6500 after redoing the brakes a bit for the extra $500.
Once I decided I wanted to really run CMC than I spent the money to build my car up. The 93 that is now sold and is still running CMC in Texas somewhere, I hear.
Of course that was because I wanted to make sure I wanted to actually get a competition license and spend the $10-12 grand a year it takes to run 10 actual races. So far you haven't caught that bug.
Watch out this track stuff is addicting.
Good luck on the build. That work alone is immensely satisfying.
Perry
05-27-2012, 01:01 AM
#74
Unfortunately FRRAX is not at all active any longer. I guess the popularity of the 3rd and 4th gen as track/road racing/Ax machines is not as great as it once was.
Sounds like you are going to have a great car and a fun project and are also doing most of the things that really need doing as well as building the motor.
Given what you are going to have in your car when you are finished picking up a beater for a season to actually run at the track may be worth it.
A friend and I bought an ex SCCA SSGT 4th gen Camaro for $6000 one season. We took turns running it in CMC for most of the year and than sold it towards the end of the season for $6500 after redoing the brakes a bit for the extra $500.
Once I decided I wanted to really run CMC than I spent the money to build my car up. The 93 that is now sold and is still running CMC in Texas somewhere, I hear.
Of course that was because I wanted to make sure I wanted to actually get a competition license and spend the $10-12 grand a year it takes to run 10 actual races. So far you haven't caught that bug.
Watch out this track stuff is addicting.
Good luck on the build. That work alone is immensely satisfying.
Perry
Sounds like you are going to have a great car and a fun project and are also doing most of the things that really need doing as well as building the motor.
Given what you are going to have in your car when you are finished picking up a beater for a season to actually run at the track may be worth it.
A friend and I bought an ex SCCA SSGT 4th gen Camaro for $6000 one season. We took turns running it in CMC for most of the year and than sold it towards the end of the season for $6500 after redoing the brakes a bit for the extra $500.
Once I decided I wanted to really run CMC than I spent the money to build my car up. The 93 that is now sold and is still running CMC in Texas somewhere, I hear.
Of course that was because I wanted to make sure I wanted to actually get a competition license and spend the $10-12 grand a year it takes to run 10 actual races. So far you haven't caught that bug.
Watch out this track stuff is addicting.
Good luck on the build. That work alone is immensely satisfying.
Perry
I would like to get a nice 2 seater some day to really have fun with.
05-27-2012, 05:09 PM
#75
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You definitely should talk with Alan Blaine at Blaine Fabrication in Santa Cruz.
He sees most of the 3rd and 4th gen track cars through his shop one way or another.
He can be on the lookout for what you want.
In fact he is giving away his 96 Camaro as a roller. Besides winning the 160 mph class in all 4 of the open road races it won the N Cal SCCA IT championship a few years ago.
It was one of his first cage builds and all he asks is that the new owner let him rebuild the cage for it as compensation for the roller. He also can locate a motor for you if need be.
He probably is the best in the business at helping you put something together that is track capable without wasting money.
If anyone is still posting on FRRAX he will be there.
Perry
He sees most of the 3rd and 4th gen track cars through his shop one way or another.
He can be on the lookout for what you want.
In fact he is giving away his 96 Camaro as a roller. Besides winning the 160 mph class in all 4 of the open road races it won the N Cal SCCA IT championship a few years ago.
It was one of his first cage builds and all he asks is that the new owner let him rebuild the cage for it as compensation for the roller. He also can locate a motor for you if need be.
He probably is the best in the business at helping you put something together that is track capable without wasting money.
If anyone is still posting on FRRAX he will be there.
Perry
