Quick questions about rockers, lifters, and pushrods
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So I'm in the process of replacing my lifters. First of all, the replacement lifters I got look like this:
![](https://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab121/WIspartan1026/1996%20Camaro%20Z28/IMG_20120728_181639.jpg)
The ones I took out didn't have the oil feeder hole. So does it matter which way I put these replacements in? Does the hole have to face any certain direction?
Also, I unfortunately looked at my Haynes manual after I took everything out and put it back in, and I saw that it said a couple of times to be sure to put each pushrod and lifter in the same place it was before. yeah...didn't do that. How much does it matter which pushrod and which rocker goes where? And if I need to move them around, how do I know which one goes where?
![](https://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab121/WIspartan1026/1996%20Camaro%20Z28/IMG_20120728_181639.jpg)
The ones I took out didn't have the oil feeder hole. So does it matter which way I put these replacements in? Does the hole have to face any certain direction?
Also, I unfortunately looked at my Haynes manual after I took everything out and put it back in, and I saw that it said a couple of times to be sure to put each pushrod and lifter in the same place it was before. yeah...didn't do that. How much does it matter which pushrod and which rocker goes where? And if I need to move them around, how do I know which one goes where?
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I always put them in facing the exhaust side...The hydraulic or Solid lifter cams the lifters should be installed on the same cam lobes if reusing the same cam and lifters. If not use new lifters, the Hydraulic cam and Soild lifter cam's actually spin as the cam rotates,the cam is designed to with a ramp to make the lifter spin.So it doesn't wear in one spot and wear out.
that being said, sympathetic wear on the cam and lifters work hand in hand, if you can replace them altogether, cheap insurance for a potentially bigger problem later.
You should always put break in lube on the base of the lifter and the cam during assembly, then prelube the engine. adjust the valves with the intake manifold off. check the position of the wrench then, tighten another 1/2 to 1 turn depending on manufacturers specs.
Follow the cam manufacturers recommendations to the letter.
that being said, sympathetic wear on the cam and lifters work hand in hand, if you can replace them altogether, cheap insurance for a potentially bigger problem later.
You should always put break in lube on the base of the lifter and the cam during assembly, then prelube the engine. adjust the valves with the intake manifold off. check the position of the wrench then, tighten another 1/2 to 1 turn depending on manufacturers specs.
Follow the cam manufacturers recommendations to the letter.
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Perhaps I should've been more clear...I'm not doing a cam install. Just changing the lifters. Also, these lifters have rollers, which isn't clear in the picture. And they cannot spin.
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I always put them in facing the exhaust side...The hydraulic or Solid lifter cams the lifters should be installed on the same cam lobes if reusing the same cam and lifters. If not use new lifters, the Hydraulic cam and Soild lifter cam's actually spin as the cam rotates,the cam is designed to with a ramp to make the lifter spin.So it doesn't wear in one spot and wear out.
that being said, sympathetic wear on the cam and lifters work hand in hand, if you can replace them altogether, cheap insurance for a potentially bigger problem later.
You should always put break in lube on the base of the lifter and the cam during assembly, then prelube the engine. adjust the valves with the intake manifold off. check the position of the wrench then, tighten another 1/2 to 1 turn depending on manufacturers specs.
Follow the cam manufacturers recommendations to the letter.
that being said, sympathetic wear on the cam and lifters work hand in hand, if you can replace them altogether, cheap insurance for a potentially bigger problem later.
You should always put break in lube on the base of the lifter and the cam during assembly, then prelube the engine. adjust the valves with the intake manifold off. check the position of the wrench then, tighten another 1/2 to 1 turn depending on manufacturers specs.
Follow the cam manufacturers recommendations to the letter.
I would disregard that entire post.
FLAT TAPPETs rotate and need to mate to a given lobe and be kept there be they hydraulic or solid.
Not an issue atall with roller tappets. FLAT TAPPETS also need breakin lube where ROLLER lifter do NOT and DO NOT require breakin.
Few of us use any more than half a turn preload, there are arguments for minimal and maximum but staying lower is more forgiving. Use a lot of preload and it is easier to float the valves.
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put them in, as long as they are NEW all of them facing the same direction and you will be fine, the manuals I have seen don't state either way. if it was a problem they would specifically state to orient them in one way or another.
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I would disregard that entire post.
FLAT TAPPETs rotate and need to mate to a given lobe and be kept there be they hydraulic or solid.
Not an issue atall with roller tappets. FLAT TAPPETS also need breakin lube where ROLLER lifter do NOT and DO NOT require breakin.
Few of us use any more than half a turn preload, there are arguments for minimal and maximum but staying lower is more forgiving. Use a lot of preload and it is easier to float the valves.
FLAT TAPPETs rotate and need to mate to a given lobe and be kept there be they hydraulic or solid.
Not an issue atall with roller tappets. FLAT TAPPETS also need breakin lube where ROLLER lifter do NOT and DO NOT require breakin.
Few of us use any more than half a turn preload, there are arguments for minimal and maximum but staying lower is more forgiving. Use a lot of preload and it is easier to float the valves.
and sorry didn't see the lifter wasn't a flat... blah.
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Thanks. Now for the pushrods and rockers questions. Does it matter where any of the rockers or pushrods go? I wasn't careful to put them in exactly the same spots as where I removed them. And in my Haynes manual it talks about doing a valve adjustment (number one piston to TDC, etc.) as part of the rocker installation. Is this necessary? Or can I just tighten them until all play is removed?
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You install the rods and rockers loosely then set it all in order... dont just crank them all down tight... you're likely to break something that way.
Swing over to shbox.com and read up.
Swing over to shbox.com and read up.
Last edited by lt1slowz28; 07-29-2012 at 03:29 PM.
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Thanks. Now for the pushrods and rockers questions. Does it matter where any of the rockers or pushrods go? I wasn't careful to put them in exactly the same spots as where I removed them. And in my Haynes manual it talks about doing a valve adjustment (number one piston to TDC, etc.) as part of the rocker installation. Is this necessary? Or can I just tighten them until all play is removed?
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The Haynes manual also states something about making sure there is sealant around the coolant passages of the intake, which as we all know, LT1 intakes have no coolant passages. The Haynes manual as adapted a few things between the LT1 and traditional SBC. No worries as to which rocker or pushrod go in where.
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Thanks. Now for the pushrods and rockers questions. Does it matter where any of the rockers or pushrods go? I wasn't careful to put them in exactly the same spots as where I removed them. And in my Haynes manual it talks about doing a valve adjustment (number one piston to TDC, etc.) as part of the rocker installation. Is this necessary? Or can I just tighten them until all play is removed?