LT1 383 Stroker build questions.
08-07-2012, 02:27 AM
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LT1 383 Stroker build questions. Well, I'd hate to say it but my LT1 is on it's last leg. I've always wanted to stroke it, and I'm really looking forward to this build and I want some insight from people who have been there and done that.
Budget: $2,500-$3,000
Labor: I will be doing all the assembly myself.
Mods already done:3.73 gears with a 12 bolt rear end, a 3200 stall, longtube headers, electric waterpump, just replaced the optispark 2,000 miles ago, 7.2" hardened pushrods and Crane Gold 1.6 full roller rockers. The top end to support a CC503, as well as a brand new CC503 with 1,500 miles on it.
Intentions: I really want to go with a fully forged set-up because I'd like to either boost it or feed her the bottle later down the road. She will be my daily driver, but given the occassional hard pull whenever I feel the need. I plan on getting LE3 heads later down the road. I believe it'd be easier to do a head swap after building the motor.
Any ideas on a good kit? What's the advantages on using 6" rods compared to 5.7" rods? Any insight is appreciated.
Thank you.
I've been reading up on a lot of forums and what it would take.
Budget: $2,500-$3,000
Labor: I will be doing all the assembly myself.
Mods already done:3.73 gears with a 12 bolt rear end, a 3200 stall, longtube headers, electric waterpump, just replaced the optispark 2,000 miles ago, 7.2" hardened pushrods and Crane Gold 1.6 full roller rockers. The top end to support a CC503, as well as a brand new CC503 with 1,500 miles on it.
Intentions: I really want to go with a fully forged set-up because I'd like to either boost it or feed her the bottle later down the road. She will be my daily driver, but given the occassional hard pull whenever I feel the need. I plan on getting LE3 heads later down the road. I believe it'd be easier to do a head swap after building the motor.
Any ideas on a good kit? What's the advantages on using 6" rods compared to 5.7" rods? Any insight is appreciated.
Thank you.
I've been reading up on a lot of forums and what it would take.
08-07-2012, 02:44 AM
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If your budget is $2500 to $3000, stop and save more. That is not enough to do the job properly unless you want to half-*** it and buy a cheap 383 stroker kit.
You have a good start with the built rear end, headers and EWP. The rockers might work, but are they SA or NSA?
As far as the cam, that does not matter here. The CC503 will run in it, but with stock heads you will be STARVING that motor. When you DO upgrade to the LE3's, you will want to get a better cam suited for that exact setup such as a custom grind from LE, AI Bullet, Comp.
What exactly do you mean by a top end to support a CC503? What kind of springs? What kind of Rocker Studs? Guideplates? Lifters? Throttle Body? Intake?
For the Block, Crank, Rods and Pistons you have a lot to consider. How much HP are you going to want to hit WITH BOOST OR SPRAY. Your crank needs to be rated for that HP. Callies has a GREAT product but some forged cranks only handle ~800 FWHP...others handle more. You need to get the right one and they get pricey FAST. ALSO remember that you need to clearance the block for the stroker crank, the block needs to be bored to fit the pistons, everything needs to be balanced and you will probably wan to replace the cam bearings while you are at it. You need to consider piston material as well. Another thing to consider is your mains...If you plan on boosting the motor or breaking 500 RWHP you need to have splayed 4-bolt mains. This gets expensive in a hurry! Research the price at your local machine shops.
For the rods, the 6" give you a longer dwell time at TDC which helps with torque. Do research on what exactly they do and what exactly you want before you make your decision. I went with 6" rods in mine.
If you plan on boosting you will also want to consider this...You need to set the motor up for boost NOW...this means low compression. Unil you DO boost it, the car will be a dog. If you do not want it to be a dog then you need to keep a higher compression ratio but when you DO decide to boost it, you will need to tear the motor down again to get the proper pistons, rings etc. This can get pricey fast.
Pick a build, save money and go with that. Do one thing at a time. If you want a 383 NOW and dont have money to get a turbo or SC now, then build it for N/A, and worry about boost next winter when you get tired of the N/A setup and have saved the money for the rebuild. If you want it boosted and want to save money in the long run, just build it for boost now and take your time.
Either way, that budget is too low to properly build a 383 Stroker that will be boost or spray ready. Period. Either do it right, or you will be wasting that money when you snap a crank or break a rod and have to start over.
You have a good start with the built rear end, headers and EWP. The rockers might work, but are they SA or NSA?
As far as the cam, that does not matter here. The CC503 will run in it, but with stock heads you will be STARVING that motor. When you DO upgrade to the LE3's, you will want to get a better cam suited for that exact setup such as a custom grind from LE, AI Bullet, Comp.
What exactly do you mean by a top end to support a CC503? What kind of springs? What kind of Rocker Studs? Guideplates? Lifters? Throttle Body? Intake?
For the Block, Crank, Rods and Pistons you have a lot to consider. How much HP are you going to want to hit WITH BOOST OR SPRAY. Your crank needs to be rated for that HP. Callies has a GREAT product but some forged cranks only handle ~800 FWHP...others handle more. You need to get the right one and they get pricey FAST. ALSO remember that you need to clearance the block for the stroker crank, the block needs to be bored to fit the pistons, everything needs to be balanced and you will probably wan to replace the cam bearings while you are at it. You need to consider piston material as well. Another thing to consider is your mains...If you plan on boosting the motor or breaking 500 RWHP you need to have splayed 4-bolt mains. This gets expensive in a hurry! Research the price at your local machine shops.
For the rods, the 6" give you a longer dwell time at TDC which helps with torque. Do research on what exactly they do and what exactly you want before you make your decision. I went with 6" rods in mine.
If you plan on boosting you will also want to consider this...You need to set the motor up for boost NOW...this means low compression. Unil you DO boost it, the car will be a dog. If you do not want it to be a dog then you need to keep a higher compression ratio but when you DO decide to boost it, you will need to tear the motor down again to get the proper pistons, rings etc. This can get pricey fast.
Pick a build, save money and go with that. Do one thing at a time. If you want a 383 NOW and dont have money to get a turbo or SC now, then build it for N/A, and worry about boost next winter when you get tired of the N/A setup and have saved the money for the rebuild. If you want it boosted and want to save money in the long run, just build it for boost now and take your time.
Either way, that budget is too low to properly build a 383 Stroker that will be boost or spray ready. Period. Either do it right, or you will be wasting that money when you snap a crank or break a rod and have to start over.
08-07-2012, 02:59 AM
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For the record, that CC503 is way too small for a properly built 383 Stroker. I had a cam close to that duration in my 411 RWHP 357c.i. build on LE2's but with more lift and it was considered a small cam for THAT setup...It was a 220/226, .570/.565 on a 110 LSA and 106 ICL. The CC503 is a 224/230, .536/.544 on a 112 LSA and a 108 ICL. The CC503 is slightly bigger but TINY for any 383 Stroker.
08-07-2012, 03:01 AM
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The rockers are Self-Aligning. Stock studs, cm612 springs, no guideplates, new LS7 lifters with 1500 miles on them, LE ported intake with a BBK twin 58mm throttle body.
And to be honest I would rather just build a N/A and have fun with it first, then build it for boost. So even $2,500 isn't enough to build a stroker properly? My local machine shop around here will clearance the block, bore, hot tank, deck, cam bearings and clean the oil galley passages for me for $535. I found a kit from Scat that I like... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-1-41831/ They will also balance for $150. If I go "slightly" over budget, that's fine lol. It usually tends to be that way it seems.
Would it work?
So, if the cam I currently have is considered tiny...which cam would be considered good? I've heard good about the CC306..
And to be honest I would rather just build a N/A and have fun with it first, then build it for boost. So even $2,500 isn't enough to build a stroker properly? My local machine shop around here will clearance the block, bore, hot tank, deck, cam bearings and clean the oil galley passages for me for $535. I found a kit from Scat that I like... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-1-41831/ They will also balance for $150. If I go "slightly" over budget, that's fine lol. It usually tends to be that way it seems.
Would it work?
So, if the cam I currently have is considered tiny...which cam would be considered good? I've heard good about the CC306..
Last edited by PaNaRaMuH; 08-07-2012 at 03:07 AM.
08-07-2012, 03:16 AM
#5
When I did my build I think I had 2500 into it for shot block from callies. It was je/srp forged pistons, howard billet rods 5.85, dragon slayer crank 3.75, and 4 bolt billet splayed main caps. The block machining was 200 and had it line bored for the crank, clearanced for the stroker, bored 0.030 over, decked, and grooved for firewire. And new cam bearings put in.
If your good with air tools, you can port match your heads and massage them a little bit. If you only want to do it once for a build and want to go boost I would just do it now for the short block. You will have enough power to hold you over for one summer. They are not that doggy, the stroker will help out.
Then do your heads when you decide to go boosted. I'd shoot for a 9.5cr for boost. When I had mine to the dyno it broke up at 3600 due to the idot not putting fuel in the tank and not seeing the gauge. But it did 258 rwhp at 3600 and rwtq was close to it also so i figure it was 325-350 rwhp motor. So you are in the area of 425hp that you may see or little more depending on cam and cr. But I still havent seen the end of the rpm for the cam yet. I know it goes to 6500.
If your good with air tools, you can port match your heads and massage them a little bit. If you only want to do it once for a build and want to go boost I would just do it now for the short block. You will have enough power to hold you over for one summer. They are not that doggy, the stroker will help out.
Then do your heads when you decide to go boosted. I'd shoot for a 9.5cr for boost. When I had mine to the dyno it broke up at 3600 due to the idot not putting fuel in the tank and not seeing the gauge. But it did 258 rwhp at 3600 and rwtq was close to it also so i figure it was 325-350 rwhp motor. So you are in the area of 425hp that you may see or little more depending on cam and cr. But I still havent seen the end of the rpm for the cam yet. I know it goes to 6500.
08-07-2012, 03:33 AM
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So for $2,500, you got one bad *** setup it sounds like. I've read alot of forums and I keep reading about the dragon slayer crank from Callies...What's so special about it? How much did it cost for them to do the machining and installation of the new caps? Personally, I wouldn't want to touch my heads..it'd just be easier to send them in and be professionally done.
Overall, how much do you think you have in your setup, not including the SC?
Overall, how much do you think you have in your setup, not including the SC?
08-07-2012, 03:38 AM
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The Callies Dragonslayer can hold just about ANYTHING you throw at it....but it shows in the price tag. It is a $1000 crankshaft.
You will need upgraded Rocker Studs...stock studs have a tendency to flex and cause problems
I did a search for those springs...dont want to search forever HOWEVER I came a cross a thread in which Lloyd Elliott stated "I would strongly recommend different springs" and another thread stating that they tend to break a lot...not looking good and I would look into different springs for a 383. Do you know the max lift, spring rate and specs for those springs?
I recommend NSA Rockers...specifically the Comp Cams Ultra Pro Magnums. To run them you will need guideplates as well.
The LS7 Lifters are what I have and will work fine.
The BBK 58mm and the ported intake are ok.
As for the kit....I mentioned in my first post "unless you want to half-*** it and buy a cheap 383 stroker kit". The SCAT kit falls into that category. Again I do not have time to search all night on here but I could not find a horsepower rating for the SCAT 4340 Forged Cranks...anyone here know what it is? SCAT is a poor man's stroker kit and if you plan on EVER boosting this motor I HIGHLY recommend you steer away from SCAT and Eagle. How much boost or spray do you want? How much HP are you wanting in the long run? You can get a good crank and good rods now, and just have to change the pistons/compression ratio when it comes time to boost but if you put a cheap crank in there, then when you boost it you are playing with fire.
Depending on how much boost or power you want, I would recommend something like the Callies Dragonslayer...but the crank ALONE is around a grand.
I do not plan on breaking 500 RWHP so I went with the Callies Compstar Crankshaft, Callies Compstar Rods. The rotating assembly IS NOT the place to try and save money...
As for the camshaft...that needs to be spec'd to your heads. An off the shelf cam will work, and you might be happy with it, but a custom grind made for YOUR engine is the way to go. LE, AI, Bullet, Comp Cams can all do this for you and all of them can spec a great cam for you. Each one will have a different spec depending on who you talk to, but that is your best bet. My cam is on the smaller side of what people use for stroker cams...It is a 238/244, .592/.592 on a 111 LSA and a 107 ICL but it is a custom grind from Bullet. This cam would not be ideal for YOUR setup because it is designed specifically for MY engine.
If you get a good crank (~$1000), good rods (~$500) and then add in the cost of your machine shop (~$500) and descent pistons (~$500) you are already at the low end of your budget, $2500. Now this is a generalization....you can find different variations, combinations and prices if you look around and do research, but if you want to build a proper stroker, it takes time and money. If you want to slap something together then you will end up disappointed later on.
You will need upgraded Rocker Studs...stock studs have a tendency to flex and cause problems
I did a search for those springs...dont want to search forever HOWEVER I came a cross a thread in which Lloyd Elliott stated "I would strongly recommend different springs" and another thread stating that they tend to break a lot...not looking good and I would look into different springs for a 383. Do you know the max lift, spring rate and specs for those springs?
I recommend NSA Rockers...specifically the Comp Cams Ultra Pro Magnums. To run them you will need guideplates as well.
The LS7 Lifters are what I have and will work fine.
The BBK 58mm and the ported intake are ok.
As for the kit....I mentioned in my first post "unless you want to half-*** it and buy a cheap 383 stroker kit". The SCAT kit falls into that category. Again I do not have time to search all night on here but I could not find a horsepower rating for the SCAT 4340 Forged Cranks...anyone here know what it is? SCAT is a poor man's stroker kit and if you plan on EVER boosting this motor I HIGHLY recommend you steer away from SCAT and Eagle. How much boost or spray do you want? How much HP are you wanting in the long run? You can get a good crank and good rods now, and just have to change the pistons/compression ratio when it comes time to boost but if you put a cheap crank in there, then when you boost it you are playing with fire.
Depending on how much boost or power you want, I would recommend something like the Callies Dragonslayer...but the crank ALONE is around a grand.
I do not plan on breaking 500 RWHP so I went with the Callies Compstar Crankshaft, Callies Compstar Rods. The rotating assembly IS NOT the place to try and save money...
As for the camshaft...that needs to be spec'd to your heads. An off the shelf cam will work, and you might be happy with it, but a custom grind made for YOUR engine is the way to go. LE, AI, Bullet, Comp Cams can all do this for you and all of them can spec a great cam for you. Each one will have a different spec depending on who you talk to, but that is your best bet. My cam is on the smaller side of what people use for stroker cams...It is a 238/244, .592/.592 on a 111 LSA and a 107 ICL but it is a custom grind from Bullet. This cam would not be ideal for YOUR setup because it is designed specifically for MY engine.
If you get a good crank (~$1000), good rods (~$500) and then add in the cost of your machine shop (~$500) and descent pistons (~$500) you are already at the low end of your budget, $2500. Now this is a generalization....you can find different variations, combinations and prices if you look around and do research, but if you want to build a proper stroker, it takes time and money. If you want to slap something together then you will end up disappointed later on.
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08-07-2012, 03:42 AM
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Also remember that you will need the essentials to do a build and it adds up REALLY fast...Oil, Coolant, Trans Fluid, Silicone, Red and Blue Loctite, Power Steering Fluid, Brake Fluid....This **** adds up in a hurry and adds to that budget but most people forget about it until the end.
08-07-2012, 03:53 AM
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As far as I know after doing massive searching on them(They were on the car when I got them) they come from a company called something motorsports. I don't believe they're in business anymore, or they renamed themselves. But after doing some snooping I figured they were good for .600 lift, don't know much about anything else.
I would be perfectly content with spending a grand on a crankshaft alone if it meant I had reallyyy expensive insurance it wouldn't give under boost. I don't need much, my goals are to just have something I can drive around in and make the fiance hold on when I open her up.
Somewhere along the lines of 600hp would be great, but this is a littleeee down the road.
I would be perfectly content with spending a grand on a crankshaft alone if it meant I had reallyyy expensive insurance it wouldn't give under boost. I don't need much, my goals are to just have something I can drive around in and make the fiance hold on when I open her up.
Somewhere along the lines of 600hp would be great, but this is a littleeee down the road.
08-07-2012, 03:54 AM
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Also remember that you will need the essentials to do a build and it adds up REALLY fast...Oil, Coolant, Trans Fluid, Silicone, Red and Blue Loctite, Power Steering Fluid, Brake Fluid....This **** adds up in a hurry and adds to that budget but most people forget about it until the end.
08-07-2012, 11:08 PM
#11
2500 is a start LoL My 396 LTx build = Callies Dragonslayer crank , Howards billet 5.85 rods & king bearings cost me 2065 shipped!!! Figure 1000 for machine work!!! JE custom pistons are 1000 Diamond customs are 954 LoL so a grand for pistons Then heads I got a deal on 200cc Dart Pro 1s 1030 shipped to my door Need to port em & the intake Close to another 1000, Not including injectors , gaskets THEN theres supporting mods like the suspension, 4L80E, driveshaft & S60 to hold the new found power 
Oh the LT4 shortblock was 400 YOU can go cheaper with Scat forged stuff & save Dont do cast crap or youll be doin it OVER Keep savin
Oh the LT4 shortblock was 400 YOU can go cheaper with Scat forged stuff & save Dont do cast crap or youll be doin it OVER Keep savin
08-08-2012, 02:27 AM
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2500 is a start LoL My 396 LTx build = Callies Dragonslayer crank , Howards billet 5.85 rods & king bearings cost me 2065 shipped!!! Figure 1000 for machine work!!! JE custom pistons are 1000 Diamond customs are 954 LoL so a grand for pistons Then heads I got a deal on 200cc Dart Pro 1s 1030 shipped to my door Need to port em & the intake Close to another 1000, Not including injectors , gaskets THEN theres supporting mods like the suspension, 4L80E, driveshaft & S60 to hold the new found power Oh the LT4 shortblock was 400 YOU can go cheaper with Scat forged stuff & save Dont do cast crap or youll be doin it OVER Keep savin
Oh the LT4 shortblock was 400 YOU can go cheaper with Scat forged stuff & save Dont do cast crap or youll be doin it OVER Keep savin I'm assuming S60 is a Dana Super 60 rear end? I have a built 12-bolt now so I don't think I need to upgrade that any soon?
08-08-2012, 02:51 AM
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The 12-Bolt will be fine.
The dragonslayer is a good crank and will be good for whatever you need.
If you are going to boost it, SPLAY IT. The LAST thing you want is to spend $900 on a dragonslayer only to spin a bearing and thrash it. Don't take any chances if you plan on boost because it will be MUCH easier to have it splayed NOW than to do it when you decide to put down more power and have to pull the motor all over again.
Before you pick your pistons, you need to research and pick the compression ratio YOU want. People here will say "shoot for 9.5:1" or whatever the case is...don't just take their word for it, ask them WHY. Different CR's will have different effects on a motor. How much boost do you plan on running now? How much do you plan on running in the future? Do you plan on spraying? How much torque and HP do yo uwant? All of this is a factor indeciding where you want the CR to fall. Do your research and pick a CR that YOU want...once you have that you need to figure out what combination of parts will get you to that number...What is your piston bore, what is your piston volume, what is your head gasket thickness, what cc are the chambers on your heads...The thicker the head gasket, the less compression you will have. The bigger the chambers are on the heads, the lower your compression will be. The type of piston you use will be a HUGE factor in CR...dished, domes, flat with valve reliefs. You need to find the right combination and do the math to figure out your compression ratio and make sure you buy the parts that correspond to those numbers. Once you know what type of parts you need, THEN you can look at brands and see which one you want to use. Then you can pick your chamber size, then your head gasket thickness. Remember, if your block is STD bore right now, you will probably be going .030 when you do the build. If it is already .030, you will be .040. I chose not to build a stroker with a .060 overbore because they tend to run slightly hot and I didnt want that. It would have been fine, but I chose to get an unmolested LT1 block and have it bored .030. My choice, but you do what you want to do. You also need to consider whether the block has been decked or not, and if not you may choose to have it decked or leave it be...again, up to you. I had mine decked but make sure your math is right if you do this because if it is decked too much you need to worry about piston to valve clearance or pistons hitting heads. Bad juju. There is a lot more that goes into building a stroker than just buying a kit and slapping it in man. It takes tons of research and asking questions and calling around. Did I mention you need to RESEARCH?! lol Just making sure...haha
The dragonslayer is a good crank and will be good for whatever you need.
If you are going to boost it, SPLAY IT. The LAST thing you want is to spend $900 on a dragonslayer only to spin a bearing and thrash it. Don't take any chances if you plan on boost because it will be MUCH easier to have it splayed NOW than to do it when you decide to put down more power and have to pull the motor all over again.
Before you pick your pistons, you need to research and pick the compression ratio YOU want. People here will say "shoot for 9.5:1" or whatever the case is...don't just take their word for it, ask them WHY. Different CR's will have different effects on a motor. How much boost do you plan on running now? How much do you plan on running in the future? Do you plan on spraying? How much torque and HP do yo uwant? All of this is a factor indeciding where you want the CR to fall. Do your research and pick a CR that YOU want...once you have that you need to figure out what combination of parts will get you to that number...What is your piston bore, what is your piston volume, what is your head gasket thickness, what cc are the chambers on your heads...The thicker the head gasket, the less compression you will have. The bigger the chambers are on the heads, the lower your compression will be. The type of piston you use will be a HUGE factor in CR...dished, domes, flat with valve reliefs. You need to find the right combination and do the math to figure out your compression ratio and make sure you buy the parts that correspond to those numbers. Once you know what type of parts you need, THEN you can look at brands and see which one you want to use. Then you can pick your chamber size, then your head gasket thickness. Remember, if your block is STD bore right now, you will probably be going .030 when you do the build. If it is already .030, you will be .040. I chose not to build a stroker with a .060 overbore because they tend to run slightly hot and I didnt want that. It would have been fine, but I chose to get an unmolested LT1 block and have it bored .030. My choice, but you do what you want to do. You also need to consider whether the block has been decked or not, and if not you may choose to have it decked or leave it be...again, up to you. I had mine decked but make sure your math is right if you do this because if it is decked too much you need to worry about piston to valve clearance or pistons hitting heads. Bad juju. There is a lot more that goes into building a stroker than just buying a kit and slapping it in man. It takes tons of research and asking questions and calling around. Did I mention you need to RESEARCH?! lol Just making sure...haha
08-09-2012, 01:36 AM
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Total change of plans guys. I've always wanted to be apart of the LSx platform, and now I have the opportunity. A friend of mine picked up a Ls1 to rebuild while he still had his in the car. Well, to make a long story short...I'm buying his entire engine, wire harness and PCM for $800.
He also has a LS1 donor car that he is willing to sell me the k-member for $200, and everything needed to do the transplant for cheap.
Well, now I just need to know what all is needed to do the transplant. The car that is getting the motor is a 1995 Camaro z28 with an A4. What should I do to the block now while it's out to make power of stock? I've always been use to LT1s, but LS1s are new to me.
Any insight is greatly appreciated! Thank you.
He also has a LS1 donor car that he is willing to sell me the k-member for $200, and everything needed to do the transplant for cheap.
Well, now I just need to know what all is needed to do the transplant. The car that is getting the motor is a 1995 Camaro z28 with an A4. What should I do to the block now while it's out to make power of stock? I've always been use to LT1s, but LS1s are new to me.
Any insight is greatly appreciated! Thank you.
08-09-2012, 01:51 AM
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I am a true LT1 enthusiast and to be perfectly honest, I say if you want an LSx car, buy an LSx car. Keep the LT car an LT car. That is my personal opinion...a lot of people here will disagree, and I am not saying don't buy the motor. I just think the LSx motor belongs in the LS cars. LT's are already starting to become harder and harder to find. Just my .02
08-09-2012, 02:09 AM
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I can see where you're coming from. But, I've got history with the car. I don't have the time nor space to have another car, neither. I honestly want something different, and I've heard alot of good from the LSx platform.
08-09-2012, 02:29 AM
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Don't get me wrong, the LSx platform is outstanding...but I prefer to see it in an LS car. I would rather have 2 cars and have to figure out where to keep them, than do a swap...plus, if you keep the LT car going and use the money to build up an LS car, you will have more time to do it right because you still have something to play in while you are doing the build...it will help keep the demons at bay. BUT, don't let me deter you from doing what YOU want to do. I am merely providing my opinion on the matter. If this is what YOU want, then go for it and I wish you the best of luck!
08-09-2012, 06:52 AM
#19
So you have these wildly unrealistic plans about building a stroker for what amounts to a heads/cam budget. You don't have the understanding, budget or knowledge to pull this off and you are going to VASTLY complicate things.
With your current plan IMO you run substantial risk of getting in over your head and having the car sit LONG term in pieces or being a complete basket case once it is complete.
Settle down, keep playing with boltons. If you really want to consider the LS buy it and put it in the shed for a year or two while your skills/budget/understanding catch up with your wishes.
With your current plan IMO you run substantial risk of getting in over your head and having the car sit LONG term in pieces or being a complete basket case once it is complete.
Settle down, keep playing with boltons. If you really want to consider the LS buy it and put it in the shed for a year or two while your skills/budget/understanding catch up with your wishes.
08-09-2012, 07:07 AM
#20
I'm at the tail end of my 383 build right now. I get great prices on machine shop work, get many parts at cost and 20% discount from the parts stores.
I'm already close to $3k into it.
Lunati crank, Scat rods, SRP pistons, custom cam, head work, etc.
I'm still short the rockers, pushrods, lifters and a tune. So figure in another grand there.
I have a sig on a few of my Bike forums:
You want cheap & fast, it won't be good.
Want cheap & good, it won't be fast.
Want good & fast, it won't be CHEAP
I'm already close to $3k into it.
Lunati crank, Scat rods, SRP pistons, custom cam, head work, etc.
I'm still short the rockers, pushrods, lifters and a tune. So figure in another grand there.
I have a sig on a few of my Bike forums:
You want cheap & fast, it won't be good.
Want cheap & good, it won't be fast.
Want good & fast, it won't be CHEAP
