1961ba427

iTrader: (26)

The alternator is running off the underdrive pulley and the power steering is running off the original balancer/pulley up front. I want to make a driver's side low mount alternator bracket and put it down there off the front pulley like that and run the PS/AC off the underdrive pulley in their stock locations. I'd cut the top part of the bracket and use an idler pulley up there so up top it would look just like the set-ups where people lose AC and move the alt to that position.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

All that work and you guy ask about the PS/ALT setup lol

I am using a BBK under drive pulley to turn the alternator that is mounted on a Mad Man
bracket. The PS pump is an aluminum Summit GM type II pump mounted on a
discontinued Speedway Motors bracket intended for a Gen 1 SBC. I ground off part of
the PS bracket to clear the water pump and spaced it out away from the block about
1/4" to line up with the stock crank pulley.

I'm going to get a plastic reservoir that mounts to the PS pump to clean it up and save a
little more weight. And the shitty braided lines leak everywhere and my car is coated in
PS fluid on the driver side

I think I'm going to order a radiator and stand it up rather than make my stock rad work.
The stock one is starting to seep and the fins are all bent up and I'm sure it's getting
plugged up since my car runs about 175* with a 160* stat and EWP

TSAEB

iTrader: (5)

if you got a chance you think you can get some closer more detail pics?? Im actually in the process right now to figure out how i want my front accesories and allready deleted the a/c.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Yeah I can do that. The pics keep getting blown way up for some reason then
they get really fuzzy. I'll take some pics tomorrow and when I make the switch
to a reservoir mounted on the pump itself.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Tonight I finished epoxying the ABS plastic pieces in, drilled the holes for the shift light in
the bezel for my gauges, and wrapped the headlight switch with carbon fiber vinyl. I did
this to "delete" the fog light switch. I plan on epoxying the opening where the switch
was later on.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

I ordered a power steering pump setup for a 2.2l S10. I was just going to get a reservoir
but those are ~$30 and I got a complete pump, pulley, and reservoir for $40 shipped. I'm
going to tap the reservoir for a -6 AN return line. That will really clean up my engine bay
and save a couple more pounds getting rid of a couple -10 fittings and line and
shortening up the -6 return line by about 1 foot. I should have done this the first time
around, but we will see how it works next weekend.

This week my goal is to pull the front half of the exhaust and trans. Pull the headers off
and massage the driver side tube by the steering shaft and the passenger side tube by
the frame rail. I also ordered some header bolts with a 5/16" head, had them before but
couldn't reuse them with the new headers because the flange is 2x as thick and I didn't
want to wait for new header bolts to get it running.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

New to me power steering setup showed up today. I'm hoping that I can install the reservoir on my current aluminum pump. With the steel pump and steel pulley the S10 pump has some weight to it. I'm also going to cut off the return barb on the reservoir and drill and tap a hole for a -6 AN fitting. Hopefully this setup will fix the leaks I had last year and save a few pounds in the process. And it will keep everything in a small package mounted on the motor so no more lines going everywhere.

I plan to install the pump setup this weekend unless I get a bit of motivation and do it during the week.





So my current list is...
Pull trans & ship to TDP
Buy a Trilite release bearing
Buy a MSD 6AL-2
Buy a radiator to stand up
Buy a Lightweight Battery
Redo the air intake
Pull the rear bumper & install the MWC support
Install the hood & fasteners
Redo my seat brackets & cut some holes in the brackets
Reinstall my lightened wiring harnesses
Put the interior back together

Damn, so much to do and so little time to finish it up I would like to have the car ready to go by the end of April.

TSAEB

iTrader: (5)

Maybe to late now but when I gutted my harness I had it hucked up to every stock location which made it easier to see what wires I did not need. There post on here explaining in detail what wires can go and need to stay .. U be amazed how much a trash bag full of wires u can take off . Lol .


Other guys who only leave the minim just run brand new wife to the items they have. Claim it's easier then gutting your stocker. I still had a few things like lights and such so I just gutted my stocker.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

I cut up my stocker, look back a page or two. I got about 15# of wiring out of
interior harness and the headlight harness. I could get more out of the engine
harness since there is a bunch of extra wiring from the auto trans, but that can
come out at a later date.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Cut some holes and routed the fuse block harness into the fender and also started pulling
the trans last night. The braided loom I bought won't work, the factory plastic
connectors are too big for the loom to slide over. So I guess its back to the plastic loom,
but most of it won't be seen anymore so it doesn't really bother me too much. I need to
get a couple more jack stands and finish removing the trans then I will begin to put the
interior back together while I'm waiting for the tranny to come back.

I also need to figure out a new air intake since I will be standing the radiator up and sell
both the intake setups I have now. I may also be able to save a couple pounds if I can
find someone locally that will weld aluminum.

I'll get some pics tonight or tomorrow. I have been busy cleaning up my Jeep for its new
owner today, so not much progress on the Camaro

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Not too much to update, my garage got flooded with the snow melting and all the rain that we got. I ended up with about 3-4" of water where the rear tires sit. The trans is still half out and I need to order a release bearing. I decided not to have the trans rebuilt this year and am just going to setup the Ace clutch and see how I like everything before I get too carried away.

I also bought my wife an 06 Beetle TDI for her birthday and it needs some TLC so I have been spending some money on that and it still needs the timing belt changed, a master window switch, passenger window seal, transmission service, and I'm sure a couple other things. I want to get that done first since it is our DD, getting 45 mpg is pretty nice, I can't wait to run some non-winterized fuel through it and hopefully get up into the 50+mpg range

I also got the LEDs separated from the dip switch of the raptor shift light and I plan on installing everything this week. I'll post some pics of that and I'm going to order some new LEDs for the gauges to hopefully make them a little brighter.

adamantium

iTrader: (3)

Subscribed. I PM'd you some ?'s about the clutch was also curious about how much the front MWC support weighs


Edit: Also if your interested ive spoken to someone who's used this 4lb lithium battery with success on his daily/weekend warrior.

https://www.twocycleguys.com/showPro...oductID=174395

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

The MWC supports are less than 5# each. I broke my good scale before I could get the correct weights. The front is 4.7# IIRC and the rear is just under 4#

I'm going to get an $80 14# dry cell battery from Oreillys and see how that works before I spend $250+ on a battery that may not spin over my 12:1 compression motor

adamantium

iTrader: (3)

Really considering the from MWC support for my car, how much was shipping and how long did you wait to get it? I have a tubular k-member from them.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

I think I paid $325 for both front and rear shipped, they have the price on their website. And I got the supports in a couple weeks, the HVAC plate on the other hand I waited quite some time for.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Griffin radiator is ordered and I ordered a plasti dip kit to spray my wheels since I HATE the black wheels. Going with something a little different so I'll post pics when I'm done dipping them.

Next week I want to get the rad in and the new power steering setup finished up. Then I can put the front fenders back on and fit the hood. Hopefully I can have everything done by May, maybe the roads will be clean by then

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Griffin rad showed up, this thing seems small. Guess time will tell if it will cool my motor.
I'm going to try to get the stock fans to work on it, but I might just get some lighter
aftermarket ones just to be done with it.

Jason94z

iTrader: (3)

I'm taking out an MSD 6al if you want it I'm going LTCC let me know

TSAEB

iTrader: (5)

you could also try single large fan?

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Thanks but I'm going to get the 6AL-2 so I don't have to mess with pills and have a built-in 2 step


I thought about that too, but I do drive through towns and a single 16" might be
a little too big to fit the rad, but I could run dual 12" but those are kind of small
IMO. I have read before that someone did some testing and and found that the
stock fans pull 8000cfm or something crazy like that and the aftermarket ones
only pull 1200-1600cfm. I don't know if I want to give up the stock fans if they
actually pull that much air.