Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Got back into it today, tied up the wiring in the engine bay and made some
measurements for the air intake. I need to zip tie some wiring here and there but it's in
place. Now I'm trying to figure out how to mount the radiator but it's turning out to be a
PITA. I also finally installed the MWC HVAC plate and it fit great

I'm going to get some aluminum and try to design something to mount the rad, maybe like
TubarUnit did on his car, but I'm just not sure what just yet lol.

So simple plan this week is to pull the wheels and clean them up, work on the rad mount,
wire the EWP through the AIR pump relay, and pull the passenger side header and
"massage" the tube a touch more.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Today I ordered the rest of the hardware for the CAI. It's going to place the filter in the
driver side wheel well like most of the aftermarket ones do, but with a bigger filter and it will
be all aluminum so it should be nice and light. I'm also going to plumb the driver side fog
light opening into the wheel well to try to get more "fresh" air in there. I'm going to do a
couple of logs and see if it makes a difference in IAT temp.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Wheels are now dipped, should be something a little different, but hopefully it works.

This week I'm going to try to get the front end put back together so I can start fitting the hood next weekend. I have a couple more wires to pull out of the interior then that can start going back together.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

CAI is built, I need to trim a little excess off the silicone hoses, mount the aluminum plate, and tidy up the wiring for the MAF. Turned out pretty good IMO and fits the simplistic theme I think I have going. I also hooked up the pressure side on the power steering pump and have an idea what I have to do for the return side. I need to get the radiator mounted then I will start fitting the hood. Tomorrow night I want to get the shift light installed in the cluster.

Stay tuned for more pics

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Tonight the water pump comes off and I'm going to tap where the nipples come out and plug them up If that goes well I will try my hand at tapping the power steering reservoir and finish up the return line for that.

I would like to get the hood installed or at least started this weekend, then I need to get the interior back in

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

LAst night I removed the water pump and started removing the hose nipples.............WHAT A PITA!!! I fought with the first one for 2.5 hours before it finally gave in. The next 2 I'm going to try to drill out rather than beating them down and out. Now I have to wait for the drill bits I ordered

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Shift light is installed and I think it looks like it should have come from the factory like this



I also messed with the water pump some more and got the other 2 hose barbs out of it. The drill bits should be here early next week, then I can tap and plug the unused holes and put the pump back on.

TSAEB

iTrader: (5)

nice setup.. thinking it would of been a pita to change shift points?

why not the sealed ram air instead of the cai.. people have showed some minor gains from sealed ramair setup.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Thanks, the LEDs have been cut off of the "dip switch" and I soldered 4 feet of shielded wire in between the LEDs & dip switch. Now the switch will be in the glove box for easy adjustments. I'm also going to put the MSD 6al-2 in the glove box, so changing 2 step settings or rev limiter settings will be super simple. Just open the glove box and turn a dial

I had plans for a sealed setup, but standing the rad up hurt that idea. I saved the LS1 lid and base and I have plans to hack it up and try and make that work down the road, but for now the setup I built should work perfectly and it's really simple and should get plenty of "cold" air. I may try to duct air in from the driver side fog light hole into where the filter is, but I don't want to add any more weight than I have to.

Eventually I might build an aluminum box that the LS1 lid will clamp onto and run hoses to the sides of the airdam to make a ram air setup, but now I'm just thinking out loud.

1961ba427

iTrader: (26)

I really like your shift light and how you set it up. Can you give more details, part #, etc. ??

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

It's a modified Raptor green LED shift light. I got a damn good deal on it otherwise I wouldn't have bought the green light, I would have gotten red. Anyway I pulled the guts out of the tube and cut the LEDs from the "dip switch" then added 4 feet of shielded cable between the switch and the LEDs so I could place the dip switch in the glove box and the LEDs in the cluster. I pulled the cluster apart and found the best spot, used the LEDs with a little grease on them to mark the cluster bezel and drilled some holes. I kept the holes small enough so that I could press the LEDs in and they would be really snug. Then I popped the LEDs out and marked the actual cluster where the LEDs were then took a 1 1/8" hole saw to it so the wires could come through, made sure everything would fit, smeared some black RTV on the back side of the LEDS to block light from the actual cluster at night and also to secure the LEDs so they wouldn't vibrate from their new home and I will say it was an easy project that took me months to do lol. I had the whole dash out of my car so the cluster was just laying there and I can't leave anything alone

If you need any more info or any special pics I can snap some since the dash is still out, but it should be going back together soon

BTW thanks, I really like how it turned out. It is actually one of my favorite mods I have done in awhile, mostly because I will see it every time I'm behind the wheel

1961ba427

iTrader: (26)

I think you just did a great job of describing it all for me, but since you've still got it out I bet there are plenty of people who will read this one day and would appreciate any pics you upload.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

LOL thanks

I went out this afternoon and took some pics, but its really hard to see anything. I just drilled through the gauge face layer, if you drill through the whole cluster I think the cluster would be ruined.

I ordered some new LEDs for the gauges, I got some 90* 4 LED bulbs this time around instead of the single LEDs I have currently. Seeing the gauges at night was a bit hard with the white overlays and I'm hoping these will light it up better without creating hot spots.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Got a quite a bit of work done last night. The dash is almost ready to go back in, I just need to tie up some wiring and then the dash shell can go back in. I need to get a new brake master cylinder since the front side line is stripped out But then I can run my brake lines and check one more thing off of my list.

The drill bits should be here today so I can finish plugging up my water pump and I can reinstall that.

I'll try to get some pics tonight

1961ba427

iTrader: (26)

Not to add another thing to your list, but I heard of a mod I really like and plan on doing later. If your master cylinder is already out you may consider doing it now:

All brake lines relocated along the firewall so that you can drop the k-member without having to disconnect them. I didn't get to see any pics, but it sounds like it would be nice to do while things are out.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

I was going to do that when the motor was out last year, but the headers are so tight on the passenger side it is almost impossible to do and keep the lines hidden.

Right now they come down and back then run along the shock tower to the proportioning valve which is mounted on the "frame" rail. The prop valve is right next to the power steering pump so adjustments are really easy to do.

Thanks for the idea I may do that when I put the L33 motor in it

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Well tonight was a success, the dash is in I didn't finish 100% because the LEDs for the dash aren't in yet and I want to clean it really well before it's all back together. While putting some of the bottom screws in I was looking around under there and can't believe how much room is under there now. That and no insulation at all anymore I hope it's not TOO loud

I also tapped the water pump for the pipe threads so I need to clean that up really good and then it can go back on. It came out really good IMO and really cleans it up and now I don't have to worry about any rubber caps popping off. I put a barb fitting in the return from the heater core and now the steam port on the heads will route there instead of the radiator, hopefully it works.

This weekend I'm going to clean up the carpet really well and dye it black (it's tan right now). And then try to get the radiator mounted and try to figure out some hoses for it.

Baby steps....

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

I like how the wheels turned out, what did you use on them?

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Thanks, I used a plasti dip kit from dipyourcar dot com. I figured it's a LOT cheaper than powdercoating, and if I don't like it I can always peel it off and do something different. If this doesn't look good I'm going to spray a couple more coats of black and do a dark silver color on them and see how that looks.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Today I ordered the Racecraft dzus rails for the front of the hood and the cooling fan. For the fan I just got a 16" S blade fan that pulls 2300 cfm, I hope it's enough to cool my motor, but if it isn't I will make some changes. I never had any cooling issues before and one of my fans never worked. This is a simple option rather than hacking up the stock fans and shroud and it should be a lot lighter than the factory fans.

Tonight after work I plan on getting the dash 100% back together. Tomorrow I'm going to try to recruit my brother to help me dye the carpet and get the radiator mounted.