which plug wires are sugjested to use with headers?
#1
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which plug wires are sugjested to use with headers?
Pretty self explanatory. Mine are not bad.......but I'd rather not torch my wire's. So just some build my owns or what? Thanks.
#2
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I use msd over the valve cover wires. Everything else I tried eventually got burnt.
You can order the kit and assemble them yourselves, or find someone that charges a bit extra and get them put together.
You can order the kit and assemble them yourselves, or find someone that charges a bit extra and get them put together.
#3
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I use MSD Over the Valve Cover Wires as well...Made-4-U makes a great kit to do this easily, just look for the OTVC Kit, then find someone who sells the custom length SP Wires that work for an OTVC kit. I have had this for 3 years with no burned plug wires, and I think it looks great
#6
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Thanks. Being since I don't want to run into the issue of F'n my self and gettin stuck. Which bolts do you guess run for your headers? I'm having an issue finding them for our engines. Or is it the same for sbc's?
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#10
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I also got tired of using OTVC wires. There are more drawbacks than advantages, IMO.
Don't use a 3/4" bolt - use a 1" stainless 12-pt 5/16" head 3/8"x16 bolt. The longer the bolt the more thread engagement and the more resistance to backing out. Use a dab of anti-seize compound to help prevent the threads from galling.
Don't use a 3/4" bolt - use a 1" stainless 12-pt 5/16" head 3/8"x16 bolt. The longer the bolt the more thread engagement and the more resistance to backing out. Use a dab of anti-seize compound to help prevent the threads from galling.
#11
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I got my locking header bolts from a sponsor http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...inless-steel-/
No problems so far, 10k miles since header install. As for wires, I just use the MSD 8.5mm ones with zip ties.
No problems so far, 10k miles since header install. As for wires, I just use the MSD 8.5mm ones with zip ties.
#13
Had MSD wires on mine and they were arcing where the wire is crimped to the terminal that clips on the plug. Found it with an ignition scope. I removed all the boots and about half of them were crimped incorrectly. Bought a cheap set of Taylor wires and tied them out of the way. Over the top on 1 and 3 the rest under. No problems so far. Just make damned sure they can't get to the headers.
A 95 Z28 long tube Pacesetters, MSD 6AL, MSD coil.
A 95 Z28 long tube Pacesetters, MSD 6AL, MSD coil.
#14
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I swapped plug wires for #6 and #7 cylinders when going from manifolds to headers. With the angle plugs I needed to route the 90 deg plug boots for 6 and 5 aft away from the header tubes. Stock routing cyl 7 goes aft then fwd-don't need to route it that way with headers. I use Adel clamps bolted to the holes in the block for the stock plug wire raceway to keep the wires away from the headers. Stainless 1 inch long header bolts are nice since they won't rust. Picture is of the Adel clamp, you can get them at Aircraftspruce.com or something similar at your local hardware store.
#15
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Firecore, my MSD's were arcing pretty bad. And locking header bolts are a gimmick. If OEM's cam keep the bolts tight for the lift of the car there's no reason you can't. I've been running arp's for years and check them every year or so and not once has there been a loose bolt.
#17
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I ran ARP 400-1209 header bolts on some pacesetter longtubes. It is a 1 inch bolt with 5/16 head so you can use a small box wrench on them with no problem. I just put anti seize on them and check them after the first few heat cycles.
As for routing the wires I have fiberglass boots on everything and tried to run it close to the stock locations.
As for routing the wires I have fiberglass boots on everything and tried to run it close to the stock locations.
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What about manifold, head, main, etc? Are any of them just sbc? Just u went to price **** out and summit wasn't very specific. Plus some part store people amaze me. Figure this would be a good start.