LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Springs and Lifters for SR

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Old 02-17-2013, 11:07 AM
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Default Springs and Lifters for SR

I am curious as to what springs and lifters guys are running for a SR setup?

I know a lot of guys talk about running shaft mounted rockers for a SR.
Obviously a chromoly .080 wall push rod is a must.

Just wondering what lifters and springs.
Old 02-17-2013, 11:10 AM
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What does the cam card recommend for springs? Use that as your guide.

My builder recommended the Crower HIPPO lifters when I talked with him about going SR.
Old 02-17-2013, 11:30 AM
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I'm just tossing around the idea of running a SR.
My car is a street/strip car. No DD.
Just trips to the track and cruising on the weekend.
Adjusting the rockers doesn't bug me, do the oil change adjust the rockers.

I did just read an article about a 440 where they ran equivalent cams, SR and HR. It only made 8hp difference.
But one posted here in a 347 LS1 said they made 28rwhp more.

I'm also assuming you can just run SBC lifters in our engines?
This is what I am really questioning. I know you can run LS lifters in our engines,
but can you run SBC?

I just looked at Crower for the HIPPO lifters.

EDIT:

1000 bucks for lifters?

Morel Solid Link-Bar Roller Lifter Set, GM LS1, LS6, LS2, LS3, and LS7 Applications
$495.95

Last edited by F0x Slaughter; 02-17-2013 at 11:38 AM.
Old 02-17-2013, 12:16 PM
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You can't decide what springs to use until you've picked out a cam. Depends on what you're looking for, if you want to stay within the PCM limits or not. As far as power compared between HR and SR it would be nice to compare the entire setup and complete area under the curve for both of what you're referencing.

Here's a thread about lifters:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...d-rollers.html
Old 02-17-2013, 12:57 PM
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Well this won't be until I build the block I have laying in the garage.
The plan is to go carb and distributor on it.
So the PCM will be staying to control fans, speedo and stuff like that.
Fuel and Spark will be taken away from it.

Here is the article I was reading.

http://www.stangtv.com/tech-stories/...raulic-roller/
Old 02-17-2013, 01:28 PM
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Thats what I was wondering. I thought the point of a SR was to run the high rpms.
Old 02-17-2013, 01:34 PM
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That article is crap. It reads like whoever wrote it was told the reference material third hand. Ran the SR cam on the same heads? Using such a mild solid roller cam defeats the purpose of what a solid roller cam is good for- making power at high rpm.

EDIT

Sorry about the ninja edit. They basically ran a SR that was very compatible profile to the HR. It's crap and proves nothing.
Old 02-17-2013, 04:24 PM
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A solid roller behaves like an HR with less duration, allowing you to make more power and spin more rpms.

Push rods and springs need to be chosen after the cam. I have custom .135 chromoly Trends pushrods, 1.7 DRE shaftmounts, and BBC Comp springs. My cam is quite a bit more aggressive then what you'd run in a DD though, so that valve train would be way overkill for most.
Old 02-17-2013, 05:24 PM
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From my understanding a hydraulic roller will never see its advertised lift because the lifter absorbs some of the lift which is why they don't need to be adjusted.
Old 02-17-2013, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by F0x Slaughter
From my understanding a hydraulic roller will never see its advertised lift because the lifter absorbs some of the lift which is why they don't need to be adjusted.
They don't move much. Some lifters have very little plunger travel, and some guys shim them or modify them so they are practically solids.

A solid roller cam will never actually deliver the exact cams specs from the card because you adjust them with a set lash (gap). The first few degrees of camshaft lobe lift are used to simply take up the lash in the valvetrain. The cam lobe rises, but the valve doesn't move. A soild cam with say 250 degrees of duration behaves like a hydraulic with 246 or so( depending on how you have your lash set). The big difference is that you can go very aggressive with the rate of lift with a solid cam. That difference has closed up though. There are some pretty aggressive hydraulic setups out there today.
Old 02-17-2013, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by F0x Slaughter
From my understanding a hydraulic roller will never see its advertised lift because the lifter absorbs some of the lift which is why they don't need to be adjusted.
Actual lift at the valve on an HR is rarely ever rocker ratio x lobe lift due to lash/preload, lifter travel, and pushrod deflection.
Old 02-17-2013, 06:38 PM
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So obviously the faster the ramp rate the faster the valve opens to its max lift and allows as much air as it can in.
Old 02-19-2013, 07:46 AM
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how are we supose to suggest a spring package knowing nothing about the cam you want to run? also for example a 242/242 .600 HR vs a 242/242 .600 SR will more than likely be ground on a different lobe family even though the numbers are the same....so the cams are NOT the same, just to clear that up...........as for parts a good lifter is a must, and a HIPPO lifter is a must for street driving....morel makes a great one, again you get what you pay for ..........as for springs, run as little pressure as you can to do what you need, again a good spring is worth its weight in gold.......a shaft rocker setup will stop you from adjusting lifters constantly i run a jesel on mine and they never move out of adjustment.......again you get what you pay for
Old 02-19-2013, 09:47 AM
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Here is a radical idea: Order the cam KIT, which will have all the correct pieces with it?



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