reluctor fabrication
I've been working on designing my own reluctors myself, there is a lot of work involved to make the correct signal and have it balanced for vibrational noise. This R&D is what makes the EFI Connection the price is it. You are paying for the design, not a chunk of metal.
I'm interested to see how your version works.
I'm interested to see how your version works.
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I've been working on designing my own reluctors myself, there is a lot of work involved to make the correct signal and have it balanced for vibrational noise. This R&D is what makes the EFI Connection the price is it. You are paying for the design, not a chunk of metal.
I'm interested to see how your version works.
I'm interested to see how your version works.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
I am pumped today!!! I had to hand mill the Opti housing, but it is assembled, need to do a little final tuning, but mechanicly it works!!! spins free with good clearence, waiting on the electronics components so that I can let the smoke out of them (burn them up) lol. once the electronics are ~working~ ? I will get it on the truck for testing. I am going to be going back to the dyno for a retune, so I will wait until this is on the truck and proven to run, then test it on the dyno as well. Isn't it cool how God works things out??
how does Magna-TronX sound???
heads up guys n gals, when I get this going and proven, I am going to build 20 units initially and would like firm orders with a small deposit, i am planning to make this a package deal on the first 20, after that I'm not sure on the availability of the 411's. the package deal should be A 411 if needed ( reduced cost if you have one already or I cant source them), my Magna-Tronix distributor with a modded pigtail - (plug right into your existing opti wiring harnes), repining spread sheet for the 411, a sealed amplifier to mount on the fender or?? close to the ECU with wiring instructions. the 411 will not have a tune for your setup. I am hopping that the high voltage section will be viable item so that you don't have to go to CNP unless you wish.
how does Magna-TronX sound???
heads up guys n gals, when I get this going and proven, I am going to build 20 units initially and would like firm orders with a small deposit, i am planning to make this a package deal on the first 20, after that I'm not sure on the availability of the 411's. the package deal should be A 411 if needed ( reduced cost if you have one already or I cant source them), my Magna-Tronix distributor with a modded pigtail - (plug right into your existing opti wiring harnes), repining spread sheet for the 411, a sealed amplifier to mount on the fender or?? close to the ECU with wiring instructions. the 411 will not have a tune for your setup. I am hopping that the high voltage section will be viable item so that you don't have to go to CNP unless you wish.
Last edited by Tinbender59; Apr 3, 2014 at 04:42 PM.
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Hay guys I've been doing some forward thinking. to come up with a fair price, I need input on something. Do I include a cap and rotor?? If I do, I have a personel conviction; If I wont use, it I wont sell it. in otherwords I will only include top quality parts, and they are not cheap $$$. Delphi, AC Delco, Bosh, .... when I get to the point that I have a large numbers of orders I should be able to lean on the supplier for better prices?? INPUT PLEASE!!!
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DONE!!!! also a quick note, I found my test lab from Tech school, and It still works, has 5 / 12 vdc outputs, a signal generator, and LED's for indicators!! I'll be able to simulate a running motor to test the amplifier, and test the New sensor in my MagnaTronX distributor, before It goes in the truck. Which will be nice to know that It does work on the benchso tha I have a known good setup, and if there are problems, the modded system is ruled out
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today I fired up the test lab, and .... the amplifier works like a champ, but the sensor in the distributor is not working, may be me???? maybe that the test lab puts out only 500mili amps of power??? or I havent figured out how to connect it up yet?? but at least I can test it befor It is in the hole!!! to find this out now. stay tuned, I have not said "die" yet!!!!
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From: burbs of chi-town
Still can't wait! I just tore into the spare shortblock to start the 383 build. Hopefully I can get the engine together quick enough to try this. It could prove to be very fun! Keep up the hard work!
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Today, trying to make progress, so I was looking up the wires that I needed to "interrupt" to switch between the two distributors; Vortec / MagnaTronX. Could not find the supply voltage coming out of the ECU; (blind) or Divine intervention? Anyway ended up looking at the 2002 van schematics, and to my surprise, it had the internal drawing of the cam sensor with values on the resistors??? That is crazy!!! I’ll do the math, and verify it on the 411 inputs on my truck –but I think that the cam signal “IS” a 5vdc input. If you remember my replacement sensor is 5vdc as well?? . my mind is always churning out theories, Ideas, and data that I have to investigate, when I’m on a project. The LT install took 3 motors and a year total to get worked out to where it is now. I’m kind of **** about getting it right and don’t like to say quit!!
Last edited by Tinbender59; May 8, 2014 at 08:18 PM.
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hay all, today I ordered my EFI Live, and WB O2 sensor, will order valve springs soon, then should be able to rip the motor down, and set it up for testing. hopefully?? in 2 weeks. my next weekend off!! I am looking forward to proving my theories. or my insanity lol
How so? You need to make a reluctor that fits on the LT1 hub, has the correct offset to the crank sensor, and also the correct diameter to get the proper sensor to reluctor clearance, which you would then have to change the width of the teeth. If its the same diameter and as easy as copying the tooth pattern and offsetting it to the LT1 crank sensor location, then that's awesome. I don't think that's the case.
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How so? You need to make a reluctor that fits on the LT1 hub, has the correct offset to the crank sensor, and also the correct diameter to get the proper sensor to reluctor clearance, which you would then have to change the width of the teeth. If its the same diameter and as easy as copying the tooth pattern and offsetting it to the LT1 crank sensor location, then that's awesome. I don't think that's the case.
After all my searching I ended up finding out this was EFIs original idea with the shaft for BBC reluctor.
I also found a guy that did this to but he had to cut and weld add spacer to the factory lt1 timing cover.
If your like me you have limited supplies and mostly hand and air tools but no way to weld aluminum or machine anything.
If you do find something that works for you please share. These ideas are interesting.