first look at initial mock up http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/12797555294/

 

first disk is being designed, we will get a prototype built and start extensive controlled testing, hopefully within the next 4 weeks. we will be using my truck as the test bed, as such testing will be light play (I will have to get the wife to do the light testing LOL) to heavy towing; with the new sensor and compaire to same perameters on the current configuration

 

Blast it anyway, the sensor I purchased has a max temp of 185f. THAT aint gonna work!!!! so back to the resarch. Not to worry, ------ um ------ maybe??? I have found a possablility though, stay tuned. Ol Murphy just had to show up LOL

 

hi everybody, this is a long way from being over. lol I just have to run scenerios in my pea brain, pick my advisors brains, in order to weed out MOST of the bad ideas, and hopefully find the good ones. As i have stated before I am a board level trained electronics tech, as such I have a theory about the 411, but I need a schematic of the circuite board inside of it. or I will just have to open one up and see if I can decipher it the hard way. if I am corect, this is a done deal. but my track record is some what lacking on this project. but heck, If it were easy efi would have done it this way. EFI I do have the utmost respect for your work in the pionering of the 411, just looking for a cheaper way to do this part.

 

alrighty then; i picked up a 411 today opened it up and as I suspected. I can mod it to take 5vdc on the cam sensor input, so the 5vdc sensor that I found will work. we are still in the race on this stay tuned. I will put this mod out for everyone to do themselves. If I do it, the cost of the complete mod would get close to the other guys cost and defeet my idea lol

P.S. I am picking the 411 up for $42.xx here locally

 

I appreciate the efforts good work guys. Don't want to step on anybodys toes here, I just want to share. I have a running 24x Lt1, and I said screw the cam signal completely. I made my own crank reluctor and went to town. If you're ok with batch fire injection and a not-hardly-noticeable longer cranking time, it will be just fine and you'll avoid alot of headaches, especially if you're doing it on your own and not going the EFIX route.

Just food for thought...

 

you are correct. but you do need to keep in mind that most of the people do not have the resources to do what you or I am doing. I built my truck because I was told it would never work. and it did work almost too well. so for now I need a new MIssion Impossable, LOL One of the main reasons to go 411 is to have sequential injection, and all of the benifits of the modern ECU's. If I were going batch fire I'd stay with OBD1 Just my opinion

 

Actually, unless im completely not understanding what you did, youre not running 24x, youre running 4x. But still impressive that youre up and running with a 411. Would love to see pics and maybe a build?

 

No, I'm running a true 24x, with CNP, and no cam signal. Without the cam signal, the PCM has to guess at what stroke cyl 1 is actually on when it's at TDC. It's got a 50/50 shot. And once it figures it out, it delivers spark as usual. I was told that the injectors continue to fire in "batch mode" instead of sequentially, but I'm not sure I take that as gospel, since if the PCM knows TDC and stroke, and can deliver spark on the correct stroke, then it should be be able to deliver fuel accurately as well.

I made my own crank reluctor from an L21 wheel. Just had crank snout adapter machined for the smaller diameter SBC/LT1 snout, relocated the keyway to the correct position, and welded the adapter to the wheel. Then I had my balancer turned down the exact thickness of the adapter to realign my belts.



With the LT1 96/97 timing cover, I had major clearance issues with my wheel, and had to grind the center seal boss down quite a bit. So i had a ring machined and welded to the outside of the cover to "build up" the material that the crank seal presses into. I'm also running an electric water pump, so I welded up the opti and pump drive holes, and called it good.



I guess if you don't have a tig welder/machining tools at your disposal, it would be difficult to do. But I think EFI connections is getting better at selling atleast their crank reluctors individually or as a kit with their timing covers, so that would be a decent route to go if you're trying to do this on a tight dime and don't have machine shop access.

 

Cool deal! Hows it run?

 

First start up was successful, we ran it enough to move the car around the shop a little bit and verify that I had the keyway in the right spot. Then the drivetrain came out, got completely torn down, rebuild with all forged components, and put it in my 56000 mile 96 z28. Gonna have a Vortech T-trim hanging off the side of it.

We heard the new combo run for the first time this weekend, with no issues after I got some wiring problems straightened out. A couple part throttle revs sounded promising, very quick throttle response, and it's a stock 02 fbody tune with 60lb injector data thrown in it

 

in for results

 

Wow do I have a headake, spent the last 4 hours sorting out electronics. I have to check with the brainiacks but I think that the ECU is set up for various voltages, as in it can adjust itself to what ever is thrown at it. within raeson of course. but only on 4 input lines, I have to confirm which as of yet. I'll keep you all posted.

sorry if I seem to jump around a lot, just so you know there are several scenarious running around in my pea brain. when I get new information, I apply it to the lot, and start spitting out plausable solutions. If you are having trouble following you ought to be on the inside of all of this confusion LOL

bede bede bede thats all folks lol

 

found out why I couldn't get the electronics to make sence, the plugs and pinouts are backwards from each other. sheesh, what should be an output going to an input buffer, and what should have been an input going to a driver LOL

 

new thought

I really am stupid. close off 4 of the 6 low resolution windows, use 2 of them 180 degrees out from each other and use a $2 J/K FlipFlop to switch between hi / low, output to a $10 SCR, frickin simple "several explicit words basicly calling myself a great big moron"" again!!!!




but what if it got lost ??? hum???

ok use 360 windows to give the 2X count, then close off all but 1 window on the low res to reset the counter at crank "0", to high or low state which ever is needed for 1st crank rotation.

any input??

I think I may still go forward with the other system for now, as I think that most want to get away from the OPTI part ???? it is the weak link in the system. an if needed I can use the SCR to step the 5vdc up to 12vdc, which may be the best plan yet, an quit jackin with the 411. sorry "thinking out loud again"

 

the current hold up is the designer, wating on prints and stuff to send to the machine shop. this is not dead yet, stay tuned

 

I always enjoy reading more on this project!

 

We are still here just wating If It can be done we will find it ---- maybe LOL

 

Ya know that there more applications for this project than just opti delete. A boosted LT could have a decent advantage with the 411 even without removing the opti.

 

i don't think that the 411 will run on an opti??? I may be wrong? but it is my understanding that it cannot be done???