New suspension upgrades
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Canada
New suspension upgrades I have a 97 Z28 vert completely stock suspension wise. I plan on doing major engine upgrades in the future(383 stroker) but wont happen for another year. What suspension upgrades would be the best just for a sunday driver? Im already going with BMR 1" lowering spring and Koni DA sport shocks. I seen UMI's 3 point SFC..would that be a better then the 2 point they offer just for a daily driver? Also if I drop it 1" is it still worth getting the RCA relocating bracets? would it be worth getting the adjustable control upper and lower control arms and panhard bar? Any help would be awesome!!
It depends... I have a 97 Z28 vert completely stock suspension wise. What suspension upgrades would be the best just for a Sunday driver? I'm already going with BMR 1" lowering spring and Koni DA sport shocks. I've seen UMI's 3 point SFC's - would that be a better then the 2 point connectors they offer just for a daily driver? Also if I drop it 1" is it still worth getting the RCA relocating bracets? Would it be worth getting the adjustable control upper and lower control arms and panhard bar? Any help would be awesome!
So, think in terms of Cost to Benefit(s); do you want a responsive ride? If yes, the lowest cost (but the most work) is to replace all the rubber bushings with Energy Suspension Poly units and also replace the rag joint.
The LCA relocation brackets are good in reducing wheel hop - airbags (in the rear coil springs) help a lot too!
So, what are your overall goals?
A lot depends on what you want to do with the car- do you want it set up more for drag racing or handling? An adjustable torque arm will allow you to change your pinion angle. Adjustable panhard will let you center the rear end after lowering. Adjustable LCA's let you move where the wheel sits in the wheelwell. No UCA's on the rear of these cars. When I spoke to Strano he said if you want the car set up for drag then get the LCA relocation brackets. If for handling then don't get them.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 341
Likes: 18
From: Colorado
My opinion would be good shocks/struts, tubular lower arms (adj or not, still way stronger), adj track bar, bigger sway bars, poly bushings everywhere and sub frame connectors.... I couldnt believe the improvement in my car (only T-top) from SFC's, on a vert they should be mandatory imho. After that Strano springs and good (read bigger) tires. I also loved the change in the launch of the car with the lower control arm relocation brackets.
I also agree on the Torque Arm, I still need to get one since Im lowered.
I also agree on the Torque Arm, I still need to get one since Im lowered.
Last edited by 95blackm6; Jun 16, 2013 at 07:47 PM. Reason: text
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Canada
I would really like to get the best of both world to drag strip and handling and ya hard to say if this will just be a sunday driver but more of a weekend warrior!
I'll be changing all bushings anyway because I want to replace the sway bars, LCA's, Panhard bar and install 3 point SFC's.
Is it worth it to get the adjustable LCA's and panhard bar or just get the stiff ones also whats your opion on getting the torque arm?
Money's no object I just want the best set up possible!
Thanks again for the help guys!
I'll be changing all bushings anyway because I want to replace the sway bars, LCA's, Panhard bar and install 3 point SFC's.
Is it worth it to get the adjustable LCA's and panhard bar or just get the stiff ones also whats your opion on getting the torque arm?
Money's no object I just want the best set up possible!
Thanks again for the help guys!
The best setup for a car that sees street time is Lcas and phb with a roto joint on one end and poly on the other, the roto allows for articulation but the poly isolates vibrations from the car. I had roto/roto on mine for a year and hated it on the street, but now I have poly/poly non adjustable and hate that I have no articulation so I'm about to change AGAIN. I had double adjustable poly/poly on it before the rotos and under hard turns if get a slight pop as the adjustable center would slightly rotate as the car tried to sway, illustrating how poly/poly stuff binds in turns. Do it once do it right, founders performance has the best prices too.
For torque arms, I had a BMR long style with umi relocation mount that takes the torque arm off the tail of the trans, and it was fine, but long style works best on higher hp cars to keep the nose down on launch, I have a spohn short style now and on the very limited driving I've had it on for so far, it feels crazy under braking because there is ZERO nose dive under braking. Haven't had it at the track to launch yet, but I'm excited as the short style transfers weight to the rear better. Downside is spohn parts have a history of breaking, especially their cheaper torque arm (the one I have) so I'm a little nervous about that.
I also have an ls1 steering rack which eliminates the rag joint and allows more header clearance if you ever do an ls swap, I have a spare ls1 rack too for sale if you are interested.
There are tons of styles of sfcs but I personally like the design of MWC sfcs, although I still have none as I'm a hardtop and it's not really needed as badly on a hardtop vs a t top car.
For torque arms, I had a BMR long style with umi relocation mount that takes the torque arm off the tail of the trans, and it was fine, but long style works best on higher hp cars to keep the nose down on launch, I have a spohn short style now and on the very limited driving I've had it on for so far, it feels crazy under braking because there is ZERO nose dive under braking. Haven't had it at the track to launch yet, but I'm excited as the short style transfers weight to the rear better. Downside is spohn parts have a history of breaking, especially their cheaper torque arm (the one I have) so I'm a little nervous about that.
I also have an ls1 steering rack which eliminates the rag joint and allows more header clearance if you ever do an ls swap, I have a spare ls1 rack too for sale if you are interested.
There are tons of styles of sfcs but I personally like the design of MWC sfcs, although I still have none as I'm a hardtop and it's not really needed as badly on a hardtop vs a t top car.
Last edited by bufmatmuslepants; Jun 17, 2013 at 05:41 AM.
For torque arms, I had a BMR long style with umi relocation mount that takes the torque arm off the tail of the trans, and it was fine, but long style works best on higher hp cars to keep the nose down on launch, I have a spohn short style now and on the very limited driving I've had it on for so far, it feels crazy under braking because there is ZERO nose dive under braking. Haven't had it at the track to launch yet, but I'm excited as the short style transfers weight to the rear better. Downside is spohn parts have a history of breaking, especially their cheaper torque arm (the one I have) so I'm a little nervous about that.
__________________
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Trending Topics
I would really like to get the best of both world to drag strip and handling and ya hard to say if this will just be a sunday driver but more of a weekend warrior!
I'll be changing all bushings anyway because I want to replace the sway bars, LCA's, Panhard bar and install 3 point SFC's.
Is it worth it to get the adjustable LCA's and panhard bar or just get the stiff ones also whats your opion on getting the torque arm?
Money's no object I just want the best set up possible!
Thanks again for the help guys!
I'll be changing all bushings anyway because I want to replace the sway bars, LCA's, Panhard bar and install 3 point SFC's.
Is it worth it to get the adjustable LCA's and panhard bar or just get the stiff ones also whats your opion on getting the torque arm?
Money's no object I just want the best set up possible!
Thanks again for the help guys!
__________________
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Topdon ONE vs. Artidiag 800 BT2: Which is the Diagnostic Tablet For You?
Pouria Savadkouei
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo You got it a little mixed up here, the long style torque arm is actually not as good for higher power cars that have traction because of the leverage of the longer style torque arms. The length of the torque arm and the mounting point being so far forward towards the front of the car can make them want to pull the front end off the ground. This leverage is the exact same reason your car doesn't nose dive when braking with that short style torque arm you have.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Unless you are going to be running a larger wheel or tire were you are going to have to have to worry about clearances adjustable lower control arms aren't that important. Definitely get an adjustable panhard bar because it allow you to center up the rear end under the car once the car is lowered. If you have a non-adjustable panhard bar it will push the rear end to the driver's side a little a so were you will have more tire sticking out the driver's side than the passenger side.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Canada
You got it a little mixed up here, the long style torque arm is actually not as good for higher power cars that have traction because of the leverage of the longer style torque arms. The length of the torque arm and the mounting point being so far forward towards the front of the car can make them want to pull the front end off the ground. This leverage is the exact same reason your car doesn't nose dive when braking with that short style torque arm you have.
