lt16spd1

I've read through the sticky regarding cams but I'm still confused and also want some input from people who have personal experience. The is strictly a street car/canyon and mountain carver, but not a daily driver. That being said, I still want good drivability, no or very little loss in low end torque, and a good boost in the mid and high rpms. If it's possible to get a boost in the low end also, even better. The car has stock heads, stock bottom end, long tube headers, CAI, no cat, 3" exhaust, and some other stuff that I don't think will be supporting mods for a cam swap.

What should I do? I'm between a hotcam, crane 227, cc503. I know the hotcam gets some hate for having old school technology, but I haven't stopped considering it. I'm not set on any of these 3, if someone recommends something better, I'll probably go with that. I'm not a newb at all when it comes to working on cars, but I have never touched anything inside the engine, which is making me a bit nervous and extrememly confused. I'll have around $1000 total for the swap, doing it myself, and I'm sure I'll be making another thread about ordering supporting parts (valvesprings, rockers) when I get around to getting everything ordered. Thanks guys

edit: I won't be revving any higher than stock, maybe to 6000rpm, longevity is kind of important lol

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

If not willing to rev higher then stock don't bother.

If you do decide to cam it I would see if you can stretch the budget a little and look at the AI complete kits and get them to spec a modest duration cam with tighter than "catalog" cam LSA.

lt16spd1

what about the crane 227? I've been reading up on it a bit more, and it seems like people are saying it's a torque monster with power everywhere, I want an increase in usable power, but I'm ok with knowing that I would get a tad more revving it higher (even though I won't).

ramair 1

iTrader: (2)

loyd elliott can set you up with a package, check out his web site.I got the le2 set up and a good tune among many other things...lol.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

The AI 226/232 did over 370rwhp with some 0.026 head gaskets.

lt16spd1

Lloyd Elliott sounds good, thanks for the suggestions so far guys. I should also add that this is probably the last mod this car will be getting for a while, so heads will stay stock.

Stroked96Bowtie

iTrader: (22)

Oh boy, I can see an AI vs LE flame thread in the making.

To the OP, the main advice you are hearing so far, folks want you to consider getting some head and intake work done also so you get the most out of whatever cam you choose. Its a lot of work to put a cam in, to do it with stock heads and intake is a bit of a waste in my mind. Sounds like you are doing the research which is good. If you are confused, don't buy ANYTHING until things are more clear for you.

Stroked96Bowtie

iTrader: (22)

That's with stock heads and intake? Just trying to compare apples to apples for OP. He wants to keep his heads and intake in stock form.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Yea ill try to find the thread, had 0.026 head gaskets and stock heads and intake and a good tune, put down like 372 or something

KW Baraka

iTrader: (7)

Naturally aspirated? No.....freakin'.....way.

I don't care what the poster in that thread says.

KW

HellTeeOne

Look at the XE 224/236 on a 112 LSA. .536/.555 lift with 1.6 rockers. Made 352/364 SAE in my car with the heads never having been off. Peaked right at 6k or so and was done by 6300. Made more torque than stock all the way from idle to the pill and had a very healthy midrange. Driveability is good as long as the tuning is good.

Not sure if anyone even catalogs this cam anymore. Bunch of people with blowers used to run the same cam on a 114. I still have my old one laying around the shop somewhere.

HellTeeOne

I could see that number being somewhat doable with the bump in compression those gaskets give you.
Doesn't seem all that far fetched when you consider that some of the CC306 guys have dynoed in the mid/high 360s with stock untouched heads before.

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

Out of the three cams you're looking into, I like CC503. Get some quality valve springs, 1.6 rockers, and pushrods. Replace timing set while you're at it. And you will also need headers/exhaust.GL

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

LPE 211/219
Will keep stock manners. Only downfall is it has no lope.

lt16spd1

Ok so now I'm leaning a bit more towards the cc502. I've found a couple good threads with people talking about how they drive, but I'm still considering the 503. The difference is that the 503 is geared more towards a higher peak HP, right? I know the 503 is pretty dang popular but I don't know for what reason. Is it torquey everywhere with gains all across the rpms, or would a 502 be better in this case?

I do want to keep the heads and intake stock, I consider myself to be very mechanically inclined with a good amount of experience (working on cars since I was 16, 26 now) but tearing apart engines scares me because it's something I am completely unknowledgable about. I know how everything works and what theyre called and all that good stuff, after watching a shitton of youtube videos and reading shbox's guide, I'm still iffy about install specifics like indexing the cam to the crank properly, I don't want to be 360* off. That's possible right? Since the cam spins half the speed of the crank?

Sorry to make a long post even longer but....

Ok, I'm impatient as hell so I'm probably going to end up ordering stuff sooner than expected. Maybe closer to a week out instead of a month. Assuming I go with the cc502, (which I'm pretty sure but still not positive), I'm like 65% sure that I know what exactly I need for it. I know I need springs, but do I need keepers and spring seats or can I reuse them. What springs should I get? I want to replace the lifters while I'm in there also, what should I get? I'd prefer not to do this again for a while so I'm willing to spend a bit more for quality lifters. If I need keepers and spring seats, how do I match them to my setup? I have no idea what stock valve stem diameters are. I have 7.200 chromoly pushrods, whatever stock diameter was, I think 5/16". Is the length good? Is chromoly the same as hardened and do I need hardened? Can I keep NSA rockers? I want 1.6rr but I don't know what specs to use. The stock studs are 3/8" correct? What about my opti, the 93 opti uses splines instead of a shaft on the cam doesn't it? How does that work, getting the two to agree with each other?

I'm so close but so far and lost with an idea lol.

93BlackZ28

iTrader: (5)

Get a new oil pump drive gear when you do the cam.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

If you want something a bit different but newer design than those old comp cam grinds, get the Lunati voodoo 60121 (actually they changed the part number to 20080721). I had it in my old cam only setup and it was perfect...good driveability, plenty of torque, and sounded pretty nasty. I highly recommend it for a cam only setup.


http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2011

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ery-happy.html

For NSA rockers you'll need new studs, there won't be enough threads to hit the block over the guide plates. I have a set of 1.6 NSA Crane Gold 3/8 stud rockers for sale, $125 plus shipping pm me if interested.

lt16spd1

My bad, I meant the stock, self aligning rockers. That's ok to run up to 6000rpms isn't it?

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

With new springs sure, 6300 is the proclaimed limit.