LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Dyno expectations

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Old Oct 27, 2013 | 04:52 PM
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Default Dyno expectations

Gonna hopefully get my z28 back on the road again & get a Dyno tune what kind of number should I be making and be expecting this is my set up:

4340 frodge 383 stroker kit H beam rods srp frodge flat top pistons
11.4 C/R
Out the box TFS 195 heads
CC 503 cam 1.6 RR
52 mm TB
30 lbs. SVO injectors
Aeromotive fpr
Stock intake
PCM 4less M/O tune
Granitelli F/P
Pacesetter L/T & ORY
Electric W/P
MSD opti & coil
K & N CAI
Vortex elbow
LT4 knock module
M6 trams
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Old Oct 27, 2013 | 05:57 PM
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Is this a done deal or are you still in a position to change things?
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Old Oct 27, 2013 | 06:09 PM
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the car is done & together will change down the road will mill to bump c/r to 12.5 p&p heads & intake w/2.055 intake valevs maybe bigger cam
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Old Oct 27, 2013 | 07:31 PM
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The future thought of bigger intake valves is nothing short of stupid.

Be prepared for issues with the Aeromotive regulator, probably the worst you could have bought when a stock one was THE right choice. If there is a fuel leak or the car bursts into flames that regulator should be your first suspect.

MSD opti, I would venture to say as many people have swapped back to stock to end problems with them as those who have had them work well. If there is ignition funkyness don't be blinded by belief in an expensive part.
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Old Oct 27, 2013 | 08:19 PM
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[QUOTE] Be prepared for issues with the Aeromotive regulator, probably the worst you could have bought when a stock one was THE right choice. If there is a fuel leak or the car bursts into flames that regulator should be your first suspect.[QUOTE]

Awful lot of us running those with no problems. On what are you basing that?
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Old Oct 27, 2013 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 383lt1z28
Gonna hopefully get my z28 back on the road again & get a Dyno tune what kind of number should I be making and be expecting this is my set up:

4340 frodge 383 stroker kit H beam rods srp frodge flat top pistons
11.4 C/R
Out the box TFS 195 heads
CC 503 cam 1.6 RR
52 mm TB
30 lbs. SVO injectors
Aeromotive fpr
Stock intake
PCM 4less M/O tune
Granitelli F/P
Pacesetter L/T & ORY
Electric W/P
MSD opti & coil
K & N CAI
Vortex elbow
LT4 knock module
M6 trams
You can't just predict power output based on a pile of parts. It depends a LOT on the quality and accuracy of the machine work and the builder. Any guess here will be just that, and meaningless.
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Old Oct 27, 2013 | 08:34 PM
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[QUOTE=Ed Wright;17781511][QUOTE] Be prepared for issues with the Aeromotive regulator, probably the worst you could have bought when a stock one was THE right choice. If there is a fuel leak or the car bursts into flames that regulator should be your first suspect.

Awful lot of us running those with no problems. On what are you basing that?
He read it online probably.

Mine has been without issue.
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Old Oct 27, 2013 | 08:48 PM
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Been awhile but was a time when those leaked a LOT and burned multiple cars to the ground.

Ed wouldn't you agree that the stock regulator would have been a better choice.
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Old Oct 27, 2013 | 08:52 PM
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I've never heard of an issue with them. Walk through the pits at a real race, they are everywhere.
I always prefer they keep the factory regulator. It's one less thing they can screw up. :-)
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Old Oct 27, 2013 | 09:12 PM
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I was not saying Aeromotive in general. It was specifically their LT1 regulators that were REALLY bad at least at one time.
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Old Oct 27, 2013 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Wright
You can't just predict power output based on a pile of parts. It depends a LOT on the quality and accuracy of the machine work and the builder. Any guess here will be just that, and meaningless.

The details could sway output (good or bad) by 70HP or more.
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Ed Wright
You can't just predict power output based on a pile of parts. It depends a LOT on the quality and accuracy of the machine work and the builder. Any guess here will be just that, and meaningless.
Exactly, We two customers, both had the same vehicle, app same mileage and exact same mods, Both took to two different machine shops because they wanted to finish their builds and dyno at the same time, One made like 20 more HP than the other. As said its a guess, Id say between 300 to 400, Just guessing tho..
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Wright
You can't just predict power output based on a pile of parts. It depends a LOT on the quality and accuracy of the machine work and the builder. Any guess here will be just that, and meaningless.
Just try'n to get a general idea of where I was at & if any1 had a simular combo
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 383lt1z28
Just try'n to get a general idea of where I was at & if any1 had a simular combo
I have seen everywhere from just under 300 rwhp to over 400 rwhp.
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 05:50 AM
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Shot in the dark at 370hp/380tq
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bufmatmuslepants
Shot in the dark at 370hp/380tq
And that's if the block was VERY well machined/prepped.

KW

EDIT: Just saw that you have a M6 tranny.....could add another 10 or so HP to that.

Last edited by KW Baraka; Oct 29, 2013 at 01:49 PM. Reason: Additional Content
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by KW Baraka
And that's if the block was VERY well machined/prepped.

KW

EDIT: Just saw that you have a M6 tranny.....could add another 10 or so HP to that.
Golen Engine Service in new hampshire so I have a lil faith in his q/c, thx 4 the genereal idea

Last edited by 383lt1z28; Oct 29, 2013 at 03:39 PM.
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 04:13 PM
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My guess is 380ish HP and 420 tq. Your cam choice seems very conservative to me, I'm sure it will have excellent driving manners once tuned properly and be a torque monster; and this is coming from someone who also has a 383 with smallish cam Lunati voodoo 60122 (231 int/239 exh) cam. Mine made 370hp/405 tq with stock ported heads and crappy worn out valve springs that wouldn't rev past 5700 RPM which has since been rectified with new valve springs; now it runs like a scalded dog with good valve springs and spins to 6600 RPM easily....I'm guessing it's in the 400-420 range now but have yet to verify on the dyno. Most on here will tell you stock ported heads> unported aftermarket heads....in retrospect you should have either gotten stock ported heads or had the aftermarket one's ported as well as picking a cam with more RPM range to take advantage of your forged bottom end and aftermarket heads IMHO. Good luck! Don't be afraid to upgrade to ported heads and a bigger cam if your results are disappointing.
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 383lt1z28
Golen Engine Service in new hampshire so I have a lil faith in his q/c, thx 4 the genereal idea
This may start a bit of a **** storm, might want to put your flame suit on.

But Ill stand by my 370/380 since your an m6 with that compression and as cast heads.
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 383lt1z28
Golen Engine Service in new hampshire so I have a lil faith in his q/c, thx 4 the genereal idea
I wouldn't.........

Best of luck to ya.

KW
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