f1 blower pulley and fluidamper
01-12-2014, 10:41 AM
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f1 blower pulley and fluidamper So i removed the POS sts kit that was nothing but issues and i bought a F1 for my lt1 but the last part i have to install is the crank pulley for the blower. The balancer only has 3 threaded holes for removal of the balancer only, so do i drill out the 3 holes already there and tap them or do i need a different balancer?
in need of boost now! lol
in need of boost now! lol
01-12-2014, 02:03 PM
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You're going to have to be more specific.
1) Which hub are you using, and how many threaded holes does it have?
2) Which damper are you using, and how many holes does it have?
Generally speaking, use as many bolts as you can. Might be able to attach the procharger pulley using the same three bolts as the damper, but if you have the ability to use more bolts, then use more bolts. Lots of force will be acting on it, and you don't want anything coming loose at WOT.
Personally, I have 6 bolts holding the damper to the hub, and another 6 longer bolts holding the procharger pulley + aluminum spacer to the hub. (ATI damper and oversized hub). I did have to drill out three dimples on the damper to use 6 bolts instead of 3 for the procharger pulley -- some might view this as overkill, but I don't believe there's any such thing.
When you figure this out and get things bolted up, you'll need to use a straight edge to check for proper pulley alignment between the crank pulley and supercharger pulley (as not to throw belts). My aluminum crank pulley spacer required 0.290" machined off due to ATI's elongated/oversized hub.
1) Which hub are you using, and how many threaded holes does it have?
2) Which damper are you using, and how many holes does it have?
Generally speaking, use as many bolts as you can. Might be able to attach the procharger pulley using the same three bolts as the damper, but if you have the ability to use more bolts, then use more bolts. Lots of force will be acting on it, and you don't want anything coming loose at WOT.
Personally, I have 6 bolts holding the damper to the hub, and another 6 longer bolts holding the procharger pulley + aluminum spacer to the hub. (ATI damper and oversized hub). I did have to drill out three dimples on the damper to use 6 bolts instead of 3 for the procharger pulley -- some might view this as overkill, but I don't believe there's any such thing.
When you figure this out and get things bolted up, you'll need to use a straight edge to check for proper pulley alignment between the crank pulley and supercharger pulley (as not to throw belts). My aluminum crank pulley spacer required 0.290" machined off due to ATI's elongated/oversized hub.
01-12-2014, 02:23 PM
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You're going to have to be more specific.
1) Which hub are you using, and how many threaded holes does it have?
2) Which damper are you using, and how many holes does it have?
Generally speaking, use as many bolts as you can. Might be able to attach the procharger pulley using the same three bolts as the damper, but if you have the ability to use more bolts, then use more bolts. Lots of force will be acting on it, and you don't want anything coming loose at WOT.
Personally, I have 6 bolts holding the damper to the hub, and another 6 longer bolts holding the procharger pulley + aluminum spacer to the hub. (ATI damper and oversized hub). I did have to drill out three dimples on the damper to use 6 bolts instead of 3 for the procharger pulley -- some might view this as overkill, but I don't believe there's any such thing.
When you figure this out and get things bolted up, you'll need to use a straight edge to check for proper pulley alignment between the crank pulley and supercharger pulley (as not to throw belts). My aluminum crank pulley spacer required 0.290" machined off due to ATI's elongated/oversized hub.
1) Which hub are you using, and how many threaded holes does it have?
2) Which damper are you using, and how many holes does it have?
Generally speaking, use as many bolts as you can. Might be able to attach the procharger pulley using the same three bolts as the damper, but if you have the ability to use more bolts, then use more bolts. Lots of force will be acting on it, and you don't want anything coming loose at WOT.
Personally, I have 6 bolts holding the damper to the hub, and another 6 longer bolts holding the procharger pulley + aluminum spacer to the hub. (ATI damper and oversized hub). I did have to drill out three dimples on the damper to use 6 bolts instead of 3 for the procharger pulley -- some might view this as overkill, but I don't believe there's any such thing.
When you figure this out and get things bolted up, you'll need to use a straight edge to check for proper pulley alignment between the crank pulley and supercharger pulley (as not to throw belts). My aluminum crank pulley spacer required 0.290" machined off due to ATI's elongated/oversized hub.
01-12-2014, 02:43 PM
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im using a 95 lt1 FD is a 1 piece design that incorperates the hub an damper into 1 unit,it uses only the center crank bolt for mounting. The three hole that are there right now are for REMOVING the hub and are only 1/4 at best. No way 1/4 bolts are going to hang at 7500+rpm and 20+psi.
1) Just to make certain, that hub is keyed, correct? If you're going to be pushing 7500 RPM at 20+ psi, then a single keyway may not be enough. Many of the LS1 guys use those crank pinning kits, but I've never done that myself -- you might look into that. Those hubs turn into wrecking ***** if they get loose.
2) Is there any 'nub' or anything to centrally locate the procharger pulley/spacer to the hub? If so, then you might be able to do as you described and drill/tap some holes. It's just a matter of whether you can keep things absolutely centered, and whether the hub itself has enough meat on it for the bolts -- if the answer is "no" to either, then it isn't a smart idea.
Unfortunately, the best solution here might be to order a different hub/balancer. You'll just have to use your best judgement -- I'm not there to see it myself.
01-12-2014, 03:02 PM
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Yes everything is keyed this is my 5th forced induction build of my own so i got all of that.
When i put a ati balancer up to the FD the 3 holes on both match, that said it must be centered, and the spacer lines up but the holes are to small.
Im very good at drilling/Tapping been a tech for 13yrs now. Just uncertain if there is a reason why there is no holes like i drill into something that is sealed. or if the added mass will throw off the FD.
When i put a ati balancer up to the FD the 3 holes on both match, that said it must be centered, and the spacer lines up but the holes are to small.
Im very good at drilling/Tapping been a tech for 13yrs now. Just uncertain if there is a reason why there is no holes like i drill into something that is sealed. or if the added mass will throw off the FD.
01-13-2014, 06:29 AM
#6
96TransAMboosted,
My name is Ivan and I work for Fluidampr. If you are using our LT1 damper, part# 740101 the three holes you have are 3/8"-24 on a 3.200" standard Chevy bolt pattern.
If you would like, contact me at the office at 716-592-1000 or ivan.snyder@fluidampr.com I can provide a blueprint with our dimensions. The 3 holes are not usually the problem, it is the single keyway. I agree with using a pin kit. However, if you choose to add holes or use a different bolt pattern you can only do so on the area of the damper where the current holes are thru on the web and do not interfere with the actually damper section that contains our viscous silicone and inertia ring. Again, contact me directly for further help.
Hope this helps.
Ivan
My name is Ivan and I work for Fluidampr. If you are using our LT1 damper, part# 740101 the three holes you have are 3/8"-24 on a 3.200" standard Chevy bolt pattern.
If you would like, contact me at the office at 716-592-1000 or ivan.snyder@fluidampr.com I can provide a blueprint with our dimensions. The 3 holes are not usually the problem, it is the single keyway. I agree with using a pin kit. However, if you choose to add holes or use a different bolt pattern you can only do so on the area of the damper where the current holes are thru on the web and do not interfere with the actually damper section that contains our viscous silicone and inertia ring. Again, contact me directly for further help.
Hope this helps.
Ivan
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01-13-2014, 11:03 PM
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I would not suggest using a stutter or rev limiter either. It causes nasty things at the crank hub. Shredding a belt only would be lucky.
Even dropping a cylinder causes bad things.
The fluid damper works great but first be sure to true up the face of it before anything else.
Even dropping a cylinder causes bad things.
The fluid damper works great but first be sure to true up the face of it before anything else.
