96z28chev

I have a basically stock lt1, trying to cam it but I want to get as much lift as I can, I've been looking at a comp cam and its a .584-.579, would this one work with my stock lt1? If so what would I need to do make it work and would it be compatible if I got lt4 heads and intake manifold later on? Or a better cam suggestion would be fine too.

nomoneyz

iTrader: (15)

Search for the lt1 cam guide. It has a wealth of info on cams that work with mostly stock engines. Do you have any other mods on the car yet?
Make a signature to show us what you have done already on the car. If it is bone stock, I wouldn't even think about a cam yet.

93M6Formula

As said, do you have any supporting mods of any kind? Headers? Exhaust? Stall? There's tons of other things that need addressed before diving in to a cam swap. And also, the most lift is not going to net you the most power. A cam needs to match the heads, with stock heads, a CC503 or LT4 Hotcam is a popular off the shelf choice. Swapping to stock LT4 heads and intake won't gain hardly anything, don't waste your time. You got some reading to do. The stock LT1 casting can make some real good power with quality work.

96z28chev

Mods on car so far is bbk shortie headers, flowmasters, underdrive pulley, k&n cold air intake. That's all that's done to the car so far, and I wasn't gonna go with the stock lt4 parts, I found some eldbrock lt4 intake and heads that I was going to add later on, right now I'm just focusing on which stall, cam, rear end gear, and what other mods I need to make a cam work.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Don't bother with Edelbrock anything for an LT1....Edelbrock is a nasty word around these parts that will get you scolded for mentioning . Honestly, if I were you do gears and stall first, much bigger gains to be had for the $ on an auto car....then you can worry about a cam, and possibly matched factory ported heads. I'd do the cam and heads at the same time If I was in your position, unless you just really like taking the ole LT1 apart over and over plus you'll save quite a bit of money on re-tuning it, gaskets, ect, ect. the little stuff can add up quick!

SwampWS6

iTrader: (7)

Bare minimum would be with your other mods would be a stall, 1.6 RR's, rearend.

I would send the heads and intake to Elliot's Port Works and let him work his magic since your considering buying LT4 parts which will barely yeild you anything over what you already have.

I have a cam for sale brand new so pm me for futher details.

96z28chev

Well, what stall would u recommend? And if u know off the top of your head, which cam would go good with that stall?. And as for the heads, how much would they need to be ported?... And around how much would it cost to have it done?.. and should I leave the intake manifold alone?

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

I drive only manuals, I'm a purist! ...so I'm honestly not the best person to be asking about stalls, I do know you get what you pay for however, so don't cheap out! Personally, I like the Lunati Voodoo 60121 for a cam only setup, or the 60122 for ported heads. Porting is another area you get what you pay for, I like the CNC ported ones....computers are more accurate than humans and don't make mistakes. I believe Advanced induction is the only company left that does it (I could be wrong), and are regarded as the best LT1 factory ported heads. They have a couple levels of porting, the 190cc version should be fine, get a matched cam with it for about $2000. You could get some hand ported ones a bit cheaper. I woundn't really bother with porting manifold unless you are pushing 500+ HP....it flows pretty decent as is, do an electric waterpump instead, more hp, better cooling, you can run the water pump to cool the engine while you're between runs at the drag strip if that's your thing.

96z28chev

As for the electric water pump... There was one already on the car when I got it, I didn't know it was better than the stock one, so.. now its got the stock water pump on it :l and as for the heads, I kinda have a budget.. so I would probably have the stock heads that are on the car ported, I just need to find the right cam so then I could figure out how much they need to be ported....

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

First things first...what is the HP goal or ET goal? How driveable do you want the car? Is it a daily driver or a track toy? Do you want more top end, midrange, or low end power? Unless you already have a good cam that is free or paid for already that meets your HP/driveability needs mentioned above, get one specifically matched to the ported heads....reputable porters have their own house specialty grinds, not to mention ability to make a custom one for you. I'd talk to the porter you choose for recommendations on your specific setup and needs before you spend a dime. Good luck!

96z28chev

I want the car to atleast break a 7.80 (1/8th mile) in the long run, its not a every day driver but I don't plan on taking it far from the house when I ride it around unless I'm going to the track. And yea I have no cam yet, nor have I ported the heads, what I planned on doing was find the cam I needed then have the heads ported to where they need to be for the cam. With all of that being said.. do u have a specific cam size that would be best for the purpous I want for the car?

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Your still not being specific enough, there's too many variables here. I'm not sure what a 7.80 equates to the in the quarter...personally, I like the smaller cams, better driveability/torque and can still run with the bigger ones; take your choice of #2 or #3 below, (which one suits you better?) and you should be just fine. Lunati voodoo 60121 as mentioned is also a great choice. Any of these should crack 400 RWHP if done properly.

General Recommendations:

•Ai 214 / 220 - .517" / .517" - 112 LSA◦A good choice for those who want no drivability sacrifice. Properly tuned this small grind will run and drive well with stock gearing & converter. Can be run on a 114-116° lobe separation for an idle that sounds stock. Easily passes emissions everywhere it has been tested.


•Ai 220 / 230 - .560" / .555" - 112 LSA◦Our version of a GM LT4 Hot Cam, but with the potential to make another few hp over the old GM grind. Typically makes peak power at 5800-6000rpm in stock LT1 long blocks. Properly tuned this small grind will run and drive well with stock gearing & converter.


•Ai 226 / 234 - .566" / .566" - 110 LSA◦Easily our most popular daily drivable grind for 350cid applications. Typically makes peak power at 6000-6200rpm in stock LT1 long blocks. Properly tuned it will run and drive well in M6 cars w/ stock gearing. A4 cars should run a 3.42+ rear end gear & 2400 rpm converter minimum. Can pass emissions in some states on 110° LSA, though 112-114° LSA makes it more likely to pass.


•Ai 230 / 238 - .566" / .566" - 110 LSA◦An excellent choice for 3.73-4.10 geared M6 cars. Typically makes peak power at 6200-6400rpm in stock LT1 long blocks. A4 cars need 3.73 gearing & a minimum 3400 rpm converter.


•Ai 234 / 242 - .576" / .580" - 110 LSA◦Largest recommended grind for stock short blocks; works great in 383's. Typically makes peak power at 6500-6700rpm in 350-355cid applications. Will still drive well if properly tuned - M6 cars need 3.73-4.10 gearing, and A4 cars need a minimum 3400 rpm converter & 3.73-4.10 gearing.

96z28chev

The second on sounds more like what I want, the .560/.555... How much should I port the heads with that cam? And do u have a link u could send to that cam?..and in the quarter I suppose that 7.80 would be like a... 12 flat I guess? Somewhere in there, perhaps high high 11s, that's just my guess though

96z28chev

The 3rd choice sounded pretty good too I didn't pick that one because it has a peak power of 6.2k, my car shifts at about 6k. Should I get the same springs/rockers/lifters that would come in a lt4 hotcam kit? Since its so similar to the dotcom? If not, which rockers/springs would I need for the cam?

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

It won't be shifting that low once you tune it and put a lumpy cam in it! Ignore the LT4 hotcam kit...it's old school and better alternatives for the $$. The cam and valvetrain dictates RPM potential....the stock cam, valve springs, and computer tune are what is holding it back RPM wise now. Just don't be spinning a stock block much over 6300 RPM or so unless you want to pop a rod bolt! Get a matched cam kit from the porter...they sell practically everything you need in a neat matched combo, just need to buy very nice 1.6 roller rockers, I like the Comp cams ultra pro magnum roller rockers, or Lunati make very nice ones...again, do not cheap out! Cannot be stressed enough lol!
http://www.advancedinduction.com/LTX/AiLTxCamKit.php

96z28chev

In that case...the 3rd one sounds the best lol. Do u have a link to that cam? And also, since it would be reving higher... Right now when I manually shift it, it takes it a while to shift into gear.. what do I do to this so that I make sure it doesn't over rev? Or would it automatically shift higher after I do the mods?

96z28chev

Also... Is there a place I could buy just the cam? And then I would buy the springs and rockers separate? Or do I need those other things included in the kit?

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Go to their website...you can buy just the cam or the whole cam kit, which would be highly recommended..if you do that all you have to buy is roller rockers. The 190cc head is all you need. I see you did not thoroughly read link above I posted...

96z28chev

Yea lol I just did though, I mustv missed it.. but thanks man! I really appretiate the help

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Actually, I stand corrected...their COMPLETE cam kit does indeed have roller rockers, so you don't have to buy anything extra at all...it even has gaskets! They take all the work out for you, can't go wrong with that, it's an idiot proof kit as long as installed right and tuned properly if your engine is in good shape. And for the shifting question, it's all in the tune.... GOT to get you PCM tuned, either buy a cable and download one yourself or pay an expert to do it for you.