LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

So....here we go again...

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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 05:13 PM
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Default So....here we go again...

So today we finished putting our 4L60E into our car. It has a 3500 RevMax converter. We bought a cooler kit, added it on, we go for the first drive...it shifts to second ok, 2nd to 3rd is a higher RPM point then where it was, and it doesnt go to overdrive at all...we think its got enough fluid.

When we floor it and try to get it to kick back...it doesn't...it goes to 4100 RPMs and doesn't go 1 rpm higher...it doesn't get up to speed like it should...what could this be?

The trans came out of a 95 camaro and is in our 94 camaro.

http://greensboro.craigslist.org/pts/4286713467.html

Thats the tranny
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 05:26 PM
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I'm trying to search up some info on cable adjustment now.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by slownova73
I'm trying to search up some info on cable adjustment now.

http://shbox.com/trans/A4_trans_linkage.html

Last edited by WCT13; Feb 2, 2014 at 05:36 PM.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 05:36 PM
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OK, the video is for an older vehicle like grandpas truck, but we'll work on the shbox link tomorrow and try that.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 05:37 PM
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A 4l60E shouldn't have any cable to adjust. Only the 200r4, 700r4, and 4l60 used tv cables IIRC. The trans shift points should be controlled completely by the PCM. If this trans is doing the same as the last, either they are both broken in the same way, or your PCM may have something corrupted in the tune. Does the car have a check engine light on for anything? If the speedo isn't working, that could donut as well as the PCM needs the speed reference to determine shift points as well. There are a lot if possibilities, including broken wires in the harness to the trans.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by duh
A 4l60E shouldn't have any cable to adjust. Only the 200r4, 700r4, and 4l60 used tv cables IIRC. The trans shift points should be controlled completely by the PCM. If this trans is doing the same as the last, either they are both broken in the same way, or your PCM may have something corrupted in the tune. Does the car have a check engine light on for anything? If the speedo isn't working, that could donut as well as the PCM needs the speed reference to determine shift points as well. There are a lot if possibilities, including broken wires in the harness to the trans.
It's not doing the same as the last. The last on wouldn't shift into OD, and when it shifted out of 1st, it wouldnt go back unless you cut the car off and let it sir for awhile. No codes were thrown on either transmission, so we figured it was mechanical on the first and dropped it.

No light, speedo works no wires are broken we made sure we were careful with them.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 05:44 PM
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I know that without some sort of mods the TCC lockup wont work with a 95 tranny in a 94. Possible you have OD but not lockup and the crap converter is slipping so bad you think it is down a gear?

Far as "cable" I was presume you mean shift cable?
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
I know that without some sort of mods the TCC lockup wont work with a 95 tranny in a 94. Possible you have OD but not lockup and the crap converter is slipping so bad you think it is down a gear?

Far as "cable" I was presume you mean shift cable?

This is a questimate on how the old one shifted and where.
1-2 1350
2-3 2000
3-OD 2750

Now its
1-2 1350
2-3 3000
3-OD ???

The converter seems pretty good IMO, It doesn't feel like its slipping at all...it just does't go above 4k rpms.

Yes were talking about the linkage on the bottom of the pan that lets you shift into gears
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 06:37 PM
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I think the converter is flashing up go about 4k, and sitting there, not locking up, and it is a lock up converter, I think u may have a wiring issue.

The converter also acts like a stock converter as far as driveability, in gear there is no stall or anything, it moves right out,
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 07:00 PM
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Part throttle shifts and TCC lock/unlock are all TPS Vs MPH, not RPM. Higher RPM for part throttle shifts are due to converter slippage. May not feel like it to you, but all higher stall converters slip more than a stock one. Higher the gears, higher the load will cause more RPM slip.

A *good* scan tool will tell you if the PCM is commanding the TCC to lock. Your not going to see trouble codes for everything, and some do not turn on the SES light. A Tech2 can lock the TCC if it works, even if the PCM is not commanding it locked.

Do a burn out at the track, stage the car, and you will probably find the "stall wall".

Last edited by Ed Wright; Feb 2, 2014 at 07:02 PM. Reason: Still can't type...
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 07:06 PM
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I concur with all of your post^^ and were going to check for damaged or loose wires tomorrow, since op told me he "had to pry" on it a bit but I have to find someone with a scan tool.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 07:47 PM
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Sounds more and more like a tune problem now with the high stall. The additional slippage will do crazy things with the E transmissions. Getting a good view of what your PCM is seeing will probably answer all of your problems. I'm liking my non-E version more and more.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by duh
Sounds more and more like a tune problem now with the high stall. The additional slippage will do crazy things with the E transmissions. Getting a good view of what your PCM is seeing will probably answer all of your problems. I'm liking my non-E version more and more.

Dude I'll take a TH350-TH400 all day over an electric trans........ughh!!
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 08:18 PM
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Right off the bat the 95 tranny needs mods to work in a 94. The fact that isn't working is operator error.

No way in hell I would consider a TH400 or TH350 the 4L60e/700R4 line of trannies offers a much better first gear, for a hard launch, lockup which lets you run lots of stall on the street again helping the launch, and overdrive, letting you run more gear for a hard launch, and the overdrive and lockup both help make cruise more comfortable.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Right off the bat the 95 tranny needs mods to work in a 94. The fact that isn't working is operator error.

No way in hell I would consider a TH400 or TH350 the 4L60e/700R4 line of trannies offers a much better first gear, for a hard launch, lockup which lets you run lots of stall on the street again helping the launch, and overdrive, letting you run more gear for a hard launch, and the overdrive and lockup both help make cruise more comfortable.
What kind of mods?
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 09:14 PM
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Don't know the details but I do know the 95 is Pulse width modulated for the torque converter clutch and the 94 is not, believe there is a simple hardware fix in the pan. Google could tell you more, I know one of the moderators on the Impala forum had put together a good sticky on the subject.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Don't know the details but I do know the 95 is Pulse width modulated for the torque converter clutch and the 94 is not, believe there is a simple hardware fix in the pan. Google could tell you more, I know one of the moderators on the Impala forum had put together a good sticky on the subject.
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/driv...-guide-476780/


To put a ’95 4L60E into a ’94 car: No mechanical mods required. Mod A must be performed. The trans will operate normally without Mod A but TCC lockup will not work, so highway and cruising gas mileage will suffer and more heat will be produced in the transmission.


Mod A (method 1):
An additional wire must be run from the PCM pin TBD to pin TBD on the trans harness for the TCC to work. Also, the PCM must be reprogrammed with ’95 transmission base code.

Mod A (method 2):
Swap the ’94 internal harness into '95-’96 transmission, leave PWM solenoid unplugged but installed. On the valve directly to the right of the PWM solenoid – push that valve all the way towards the outside of the valvebody , push it against the side of the valvebody and stake it into place. That’ll lock down your PWM function and it’ll function like a regular lockup. No PCM reprogramming required. Now with pics!


Thats what that site told me about it.
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 11:23 AM
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I did Mod A (method 1) on a 94 car with a PWM trans. Had the PCM loaded with a 95 base tune and ran a wire from PCM pin D6 (#6 pin on the blue connector at the PCM) to the case connector for Pin U. 12V to operate the solenoid is already provided through Pin E on the trans case connector.

Pin U won't be there on the case connector on the 94 wiring harness. I grabbed a couple of PCM pins from a junkyard harness and used those ends, soldered a wire in between, tucked it into the corrugated loom on the engine/ trans harness. You just poke a hole through the silicone bushing on the case connector and run it through (push the cut end of the wire through, pulling the connector snug up with the rest of them, you can't push the contact end through the back of the connector). The PCM and trans connectors come apart pretty intuitively, just unsnap and go back together the same way.

I considered doing Mod A (method 2) but the trans already had a kit in it that was designed to fix PWM-specific problems (DTC 1870 on OBD-II cars), so I couldn't just stake it open.
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 11:24 AM
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I think our best bet is method 2 bro
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by WCT13
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/driv...-guide-476780/


To put a ’95 4L60E into a ’94 car: No mechanical mods required. Mod A must be performed. The trans will operate normally without Mod A but TCC lockup will not work, so highway and cruising gas mileage will suffer and more heat will be produced in the transmission.


Mod A (method 1):
An additional wire must be run from the PCM pin TBD to pin TBD on the trans harness for the TCC to work. Also, the PCM must be reprogrammed with ’95 transmission base code.

Mod A (method 2):
Swap the ’94 internal harness into '95-’96 transmission, leave PWM solenoid unplugged but installed. On the valve directly to the right of the PWM solenoid – push that valve all the way towards the outside of the valvebody , push it against the side of the valvebody and stake it into place. That’ll lock down your PWM function and it’ll function like a regular lockup. No PCM reprogramming required. Now with pics!


Thats what that site told me about it.
You can do method 2 by staking the pwm, or installl a pwm eliminator kit, or the HD2 kit. Don't know why you'd have to swap the internal harness.

I have a 95 trans in my 94 car.
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