LT1 Squealing scraping sound?
#1
LT1 Squealing scraping sound?
I just picked up this 96 z28 from a guy that told me it didn't start and just had a grinding noise. I immediately thought starter or flex plate. I got it home put a battery in it and it started right up only to hear this. Any help would be awesome. It doesn't sound like it's knocking but I've heard some similar sounds on youtube videos and people say it had a bad bearing. Any help would be nice to know what I'm looking at here rebuild wise.
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#10
#11
Pulled that cover off earlier and it looked fine. The squealing turned to knocking so I'm just gonna get it pulled out and torn down to see how bad it is.
#14
#15
Getting with a pretty respectable machine shop in my area and he's going to quote me the whole bottom end refreshment. Last guy he did an lt1 bottom end refresher said it cost him 400. So that isn't too bad. Next I'm onto the wiring harness. I'm trying to find out exactly what the bare minimum is to run the motor. I want to get rid of as much of the wiring and weight I can.
#18
Hard to tell what rpm the engine is idling in your video, but if near 800-1000, then it sounds like valvetrain frequency (1/2 crank speed) to me. And not at the top of the valvetrain either; definitely deep.
Just recently I had a roller lifter spall and flatspot on a high mileage L31 motor, and it had that same chirp/squeak sound, but I tore into it before it got as loud as yours.
Just recently I had a roller lifter spall and flatspot on a high mileage L31 motor, and it had that same chirp/squeak sound, but I tore into it before it got as loud as yours.
#19
Sounds like a bad alternator to me but my .2 cents me nothin haha. First do an oil change(check for metal in oil), try running the car with no accessory belt, next unbolt the inspection cover for the converter/flexplate and check to see if its broken and or loose bolts. Oil change will run you 25 bucks at most. Best to do the cheap stuff before a rebuild