Optispark Mystery
To begin, the car had a no spark condition. Preliminary tests of coil, ICM, and harness all checked out ok. So I purchased an aftermarket opti distributor. With careful forethought I bench tested it, and out came bright blue spark. Problem solved I thought. So I put the whole shebang back together, added coolant and hit the key - NOTHING! Diagnosis - No spark.
Alright, it doesn't make sense, but let's try it again....Take the opti back off the motor. Do another bench test. Just like before, bench tested with big blue spark. Bolt it back on the motor. Connect the harness, coil/ICM, #1 plug/wire and test before going any further. Guess what? Same as before - Nothing. No spark! Next step, desperately check remote possibilities. Verify camshaft is rotating distributor shaft - of course it is. Tighten all grounds and retest harness - check. Well, then let's point the blame then at my newly purchased aftermarket optispark. Beware of their reliability so many people say. So I return it claiming defective part.
Fast forward a week. I just received a new optispark, and am going thru the pre-install ritual again. Bench test confirmed. Bolt it to motor and plug in with #1 plug/wire and whatcha think is happening? NO SPARK! How can this thing send spark when I spin it mocked up sitting on top of the motor, but once I bolt it to the motor I get nothing? I'm looking for some help with this one if anyone can offer.
I'm not sure how people are doing the "drill" test, but, the correct direction for spinning the opti will be using the REVERSE direction on the drill.
If you are spinning it forward, you are going the wrong direction and spark in that direction does not mean anything as it's not the direction the opti will be turning on the engine.
In order to see what is going on with the hi and lo res signals you need an oscilloscope. For the high voltage side(spark side), you will need other tools to adapt the scope to handle high secondary voltages or get a hold of an ignition oscilloscope.
If the drill is spinning in reverse and is presenting spark, I think we need more details on how the test was performed....ie was it just with key on? I'm not so sure that even with that, if the test is truly a valid test to tell you if the opti is okay or not.....I guess what I'm saying is that I have not seen that testing method listed as a valid way of testing the opti in the factory f-body manual.
They do recommend looking for spark with a ST-125 while cranking the engine.
Last edited by ACE1252; Oct 2, 2016 at 12:48 AM.
One thing I'm certain of is that you don't know how the optispark system works. The low resolution signal consists of varying length windows for cylinder identification....if you are spinning it in the wrong direction, then you are jacking up the ignition timing of the spark. You need to educate yourself on how it works, what to test, and start testing things with a multimeter and scope. You can swap parts if you have known good spares, but that will not help if you have a wiring issue developing....you have to track that down with a multimeter. It can also get expensive quick if you don't have known good spares and have to purchase parts.
Start by watching this....and are you familiar with how to use a multimeter and oscilloscope? If not, you need to learn how to use them too...
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One hypothesis could be that I am not receiving proper voltages to ignition components when key is in start position. That could explain why spark occurred with 'drill' test (key in on position) and not with opti installed test (key in start position).
Unfortunately, now that I cannot generate a spark under any circumstance, I need to back up and begin by checking voltages/grounds across the engine harness again as recommended. Thanks everyone for the input thus far. The potential for an intermittent harness/ground problem will be my next focus.
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so be diligent in checking your wiring & connectors. something like this may be your issue
also if you are buying auto part store clone Optis...those are a crap shoot right out of the box






