LT1 build thoughts for DD
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: Minnesota
LT1 build thoughts for DD So i got a 1995 trans am and ive done some mods to it.. i am wondering what you guys think ill get for hp/torque numbers and just what you think of it in general for a daily driver.
the list:
Long tubes/mid length headers (whatever fits for this year)
cc503
1.6 full rocker arms
high energy pushrods
918 valve springs
Cloyes heavy duty timing chain
MSD distributor cap
NGK plugs
2100 (forged like) stall converter
borla catback with a cat delete
a power tune from solomon who does lt1pcmtuning.
this thing will also be running on stock heads...
thanks.
the list:
Long tubes/mid length headers (whatever fits for this year)
cc503
1.6 full rocker arms
high energy pushrods
918 valve springs
Cloyes heavy duty timing chain
MSD distributor cap
NGK plugs
2100 (forged like) stall converter
borla catback with a cat delete
a power tune from solomon who does lt1pcmtuning.
this thing will also be running on stock heads...
thanks.
I would guess 330rwhp if you have a manual 6 speed.
I would go with pac 1218 springs over comp 918's. Too many horror stories with comp 918's.
EWP would be worth some extra hp/trq. Run 160 degree stat and have Solomon add some timing in his tune for more power.
Stage one ported heads would make a big diff if you can swing it.
I would go with pac 1218 springs over comp 918's. Too many horror stories with comp 918's.
EWP would be worth some extra hp/trq. Run 160 degree stat and have Solomon add some timing in his tune for more power.
Stage one ported heads would make a big diff if you can swing it.
If you're on a budget and trying to make more power, I'd skip the headers for now and have your heads ported and polished. I don't know if you plan on installing the headers yourself or having someone else do it, but you'll make more power cheaper with heads and cam than you will with cam only and headers.
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 442
Likes: 3
From: Raleigh, NC
What are "high energy pushrods"? All you need are a good set of hardened ones in the correct length. Go with non-self-aligning rockers and guideplates for extra valvetrain stability as well.
With that cam I'd go with a converter with a stall speed around 3200-3500, not the 2100 you're looking at. With today's high-efficiency lockup converters there's little difference in drivability and fuel efficiency. You'll also want to run a good shift kit in the transmission to go with the converter, Trango seems to be the one that has been most popular and effective over the years. Eventually you'll be rebuilding and strengthening the 4L60-E tranny anyway though if you lean on it hard at all.
You'll also want to go with a set of 3.42 or 3.73 rear gears to get the most out of this setup.
I'd skip the MSD cap, just run a stock OEM GM Delco opti in good working order, they're the best of the lot.
Do not under any circumstances skip doing the headers in order to have the heads ported, you'll just choke it up running manifolds. If you do end up removing the heads, stick .026 head gaskets in there during reassembly to pick up a bit more compression. If you don't end up removing the heads you need not worry about that.
As for numbers, a typical street-oriented setup like this with A4 tranny and a good 3000-3500 lockup converter would make around 325-355 rwhp on a dynojet with proper tuning, assuming everything is in order and healthy. I'd expect mid to low 12s at around 110 mph in decent conditions with a 3.73 rear gear and drag radials. This cam/stall/longtubes/bolt-ons setup has been done ten thousand times if it's been done once over the years.
With that cam I'd go with a converter with a stall speed around 3200-3500, not the 2100 you're looking at. With today's high-efficiency lockup converters there's little difference in drivability and fuel efficiency. You'll also want to run a good shift kit in the transmission to go with the converter, Trango seems to be the one that has been most popular and effective over the years. Eventually you'll be rebuilding and strengthening the 4L60-E tranny anyway though if you lean on it hard at all.
You'll also want to go with a set of 3.42 or 3.73 rear gears to get the most out of this setup.
I'd skip the MSD cap, just run a stock OEM GM Delco opti in good working order, they're the best of the lot.
Do not under any circumstances skip doing the headers in order to have the heads ported, you'll just choke it up running manifolds. If you do end up removing the heads, stick .026 head gaskets in there during reassembly to pick up a bit more compression. If you don't end up removing the heads you need not worry about that.
As for numbers, a typical street-oriented setup like this with A4 tranny and a good 3000-3500 lockup converter would make around 325-355 rwhp on a dynojet with proper tuning, assuming everything is in order and healthy. I'd expect mid to low 12s at around 110 mph in decent conditions with a 3.73 rear gear and drag radials. This cam/stall/longtubes/bolt-ons setup has been done ten thousand times if it's been done once over the years.
Last edited by HellTeeOne; May 31, 2017 at 02:11 PM.
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 442
Likes: 3
From: Raleigh, NC
If you're on a budget and trying to make more power, I'd skip the headers for now and have your heads ported and polished. I don't know if you plan on installing the headers yourself or having someone else do it, but you'll make more power cheaper with heads and cam than you will with cam only and headers.
I don't know of a single person in the LT1 world who has done things this way. And I've been messing with LT1s for 18 years. This advice is questionable at best. Putting together a ported heads/cam setup and then bolting manifolds back on is too silly of an idea to warrant serious discussion.
Sooooo... when you're looking at dollar per horsepower figures and you're on a budget, wouldn't a cam with head work be the best way to go first, or are my numbers way off?
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On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
From: Wichita, KS
Take a look at this cam.
http://lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2011&gid=289
I have it my car and I have been daily driving it for awhile on a STOCK converter just fine. I still even get decent gas mileage, and if I was you I would not skip headers. Manifolds will choke it up like HellTeeOne said. That being said, if you want to free up your budget a little I would try and find some headers used. Search craigslist locally and the classifieds, I'm sure you'll find something. Same with the Borla Catback, about a month ago I found a near $1000 new Borla S-Type catback for $250 used in Nebraska. There are definitely good deals to be had if you just look a little. And while you're at it I'd do the Electric water pump conversion, I'm running the cheaper CSR billet aluminum ewp and have about 3k on it with no problems. Good luck, keep us all updated!
http://lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2011&gid=289
I have it my car and I have been daily driving it for awhile on a STOCK converter just fine. I still even get decent gas mileage, and if I was you I would not skip headers. Manifolds will choke it up like HellTeeOne said. That being said, if you want to free up your budget a little I would try and find some headers used. Search craigslist locally and the classifieds, I'm sure you'll find something. Same with the Borla Catback, about a month ago I found a near $1000 new Borla S-Type catback for $250 used in Nebraska. There are definitely good deals to be had if you just look a little. And while you're at it I'd do the Electric water pump conversion, I'm running the cheaper CSR billet aluminum ewp and have about 3k on it with no problems. Good luck, keep us all updated!
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