qwiketz

so I'm sick of not having tuners and I'm sick of dealing with the rare 92 ecu and opti. For now I'd like to get rid of the ecu and eventually get rid of the opti. Car is a 92 vette with a vortech ysi @ around 14-17 psi. What works good, is easy to tune with a 2.5 bar map sensor?

qwiketz

I'd also like to get rid of the batch fire if possible. 4l60e control is a huge plus as well. I'm currently using an optishift which I'll be able to sell.

Nostang

iTrader: (4)

FAST XFI or Holley EFI would be the best bets for your combo. Once you go to a nice aftermarket ECU you will not want to ever go back to factory ECM. You can run sequential injection on both and you could change over to a crank trigger and cam sensor setup to get away from the opti.

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

I run a 76mm on a 6liter with a gold box to control the motor and a micro squirt to control the shifting on the 4l80e. The setup with their harness and injectors is going to be 2k. A Holley Dominator or Fueltech will be at least 2.5k and you might still have to buy extras. Tuning software is not too bad once you understand what the tables do.

smitty2919

TorqHead 24X conversion to run LS 411 PCM. Deletes stock PCM and Opti

qwiketz

checked into that but they aren't going to have one for my 92 for a while if ever

smitty2919

OOO bummer. I did their kit and it has been working flawlessly for my 95 Camaro.

MEAN LT1

iTrader: (2)

Looks like a Holley or FAST may be what you are looking for.

SRZ

iTrader: (14)

QFT. I did this 10 yrs ago. The only downside to going XFI if you want to rid yourself of the opti, you'll have to have their XIM to control the coils as XFI doesn't allow this. I was the 1st with the hybrid frankenstein as they said it couldn't be done at the time..., F.A.S.T. XIM, 24x coil setup and their cam sensor, FAST crank trigger. Works flawlessly once I worked out a few bug thanks to Cal Hartline. Also, I piggyback of the Factory ECU to control my dash still. All my guages work but the XFI runs the show.

Now if you want one box to control everything then the BS3 would be the way to go but their tables in terms of tuning are little harder to understand vs the F.A.S.T. But that box controls everything.

pdxmotorhead

Once your headed down the path of a aftermarket standalone, the motor type becomes fairly unimportant. (Optis's or no doesn't matter.. ) You just configure it to work how you want..
Block off plate and go NCOP (Ls coil packs) and done..

FWIW ,, I have an acquaintance that dyno's really high end engines... Openwheel/Indy stuff..
He's fiddled with sequential vs batchfire EFI endlessly and told me he can't find a performance difference about about 3200 rpm. and that between 1500 and 3200 its pretty minuscule..

If you scope an injector (Oscilloscope) at somewhere around 3000 RPM the injector is actually not closing all the way, the injector coil can't quench the field that quickly, the power drops and pintle starts down, but it gets re-triggered before the pin can finish the drop. Just like valve springs, they can only open and close so fast.. They even used a small camera in the intake to watch the injector pulse with UHS photography and you could watch the spray continue, it never actually turned off 100%. (Fuel pressure is part of the return spring in this case.. )

Of course this is HIGHLY variable depending on the injector, drivers, wiring, programming etc..

qwiketz

Thanks for the input. I've been watching the torquehead and that sounds like a good option but apparently the 92-93 y body cars are a bit lower on the priority list since they are not as common. Too bad too because these cars routinely have issues with the factory ecm. Mine has been repaired but just selling that off will help pay for the cost of switching to a different system.

I'm also currently using a standalone trans controller, so I could sell that off too if I end up buying something to control both.

About the batch versus sequential, I just heard that it is easier to get the car to idle cleanly. My car pretty much always stinks up the garage idling with the 60lb injectors. It'd be nice to have options.

So, the simplest way to get something that I can take a local tuner, transmission control would be awesome. I'd want it to work with at least a 2 bar if not 2.5 bar map sensor as well. Since it's a lt1, not sure if I can buy a kit and modify it to fit or if I'd be better off buying all the odds and ends.

I'm getting tire of having laptop issues with all of my old scan software (tts datamaster).

Nostang

iTrader: (4)

FWIW, I am running an MSD coil (single coil), MSD 8570 small cap distributor and an MSD crank trigger with a digital 6 box on my LT1 with Fast XFI. I went with a complete stand alone harness from FAST and wired into the fan, fuel pump, and other wiring to control everything through the FAST. I still have the stock PCM for the speedometer and OBD 2 inspection testing but would run a Dakota digital speedo converter box if I did not need to pass inspection (you would not have to worry as you have a 1992 car). All the factory gauges work perfectly including the tach. I had to use a Dakota digital box to convert the tach signal from my msd digital 6 to my factory tach (~$60). The oil pressure, temp, fuel level, and battery voltage all work like factory as I made a custom harness from the factory wiring to get everything to work correctly. The FAST XFI or Holley would work for your setup and tuning would not be that complex at all. Check out theefistore for a system as Brian Macy is a whiz at these systems and can help you dial in the tune very quickly as well as trouble shoot any issues you may run into.