383 with CC306 dies at idle
#1
383 with CC306 dies at idle
I have a 383 stroker with a CC306 cam and it runs good except for it dies at idle after a minute or so. It doesn't instantly shut off but it starts at 1200 rpm (what it's supposed to idle at), and then it slowly drops down until it eventually dies after a minute or so. Also the Oil Pressure needle jumps around at idle but driving it stays in the middle.
I'm gonna check for vacuum leaks tomorrow, but what else could this be? The tune maybe? I'm sure it could be a whole bunch of things... Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
I'm gonna check for vacuum leaks tomorrow, but what else could this be? The tune maybe? I'm sure it could be a whole bunch of things... Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
#2
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
I have a 383 stroker with a CC306 cam and it runs good except for it dies at idle after a minute or so. It doesn't instantly shut off but it starts at 1200 rpm (what it's supposed to idle at), and then it slowly drops down until it eventually dies after a minute or so. Also the Oil Pressure needle jumps around at idle but driving it stays in the middle.
I'm gonna check for vacuum leaks tomorrow, but what else could this be? The tune maybe? I'm sure it could be a whole bunch of things... Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
I'm gonna check for vacuum leaks tomorrow, but what else could this be? The tune maybe? I'm sure it could be a whole bunch of things... Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
#3
I don’t know who tuned it. The guy selling it bought it from someone else and he didn’t even know who tuned it. And it’s a manual.
i let it idle a while today and it actually didn’t die at all. Just stayed at 1200. But then today I drove it and when I was in neutral at 20 mph the RPMs stayed at 2k as we coasted. Idk if that’s normal.
i let it idle a while today and it actually didn’t die at all. Just stayed at 1200. But then today I drove it and when I was in neutral at 20 mph the RPMs stayed at 2k as we coasted. Idk if that’s normal.
#5
The ad said it had a “g force throttle body” but when I google that nothing comes up. But the first link is to an eBay search for 92mm ls1 TB’s so maybe it’s a 92mm.
#6
LS anything TB does not fit on a LT1...
If you do have a larger than stock aftermarket TB (52 or 58) with a cam the PCM needs to be tuned for it and often you need to do the "drill mod" for the aftermarket TB or open the blades slightly and then slot the TPS holes so it can be clocked back. You need to be able to scan what your IAC counts to do this
If you do have a larger than stock aftermarket TB (52 or 58) with a cam the PCM needs to be tuned for it and often you need to do the "drill mod" for the aftermarket TB or open the blades slightly and then slot the TPS holes so it can be clocked back. You need to be able to scan what your IAC counts to do this
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#8
well I already bought it two days ago. I think it’s a good car it just has an idle problem. I drove it 500 miles home no problem at all. I’m gonna datalog it and see what’s up with it.
#9
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
Im with you on this, the 2k Rpm in neutral while coasting is a similar issue iv started having. I have an aftermarket 58MM BBK the only thing that has me scratching my head is the problem didn't start until I had my tuner re tune my car after I moved to Indy from Denver. I haven't dug that deep into the issue as I have not driven my car very much this year. I have the trans out and am shipping my shaft and 5-6 cluster out to get fixed. Had the dreaded 75-85mph shake and sure enough 5-6 gear cluster was super lose. That being said, OP I would look into the possibility of a Vacuum leak. I would also recommend writing down a list of mods and either taking it in to be tuned on a dyno if available or ship the ECM out to one of the reputable mail order tuners. Just make sure you have the most complete list of mods you can if you decide to go the route so they can at least gets close to a good base tune for the motor.
#11
Im with you on this, the 2k Rpm in neutral while coasting is a similar issue iv started having. I have an aftermarket 58MM BBK the only thing that has me scratching my head is the problem didn't start until I had my tuner re tune my car after I moved to Indy from Denver. I haven't dug that deep into the issue as I have not driven my car very much this year. I have the trans out and am shipping my shaft and 5-6 cluster out to get fixed. Had the dreaded 75-85mph shake and sure enough 5-6 gear cluster was super lose. That being said, OP I would look into the possibility of a Vacuum leak. I would also recommend writing down a list of mods and either taking it in to be tuned on a dyno if available or ship the ECM out to one of the reputable mail order tuners. Just make sure you have the most complete list of mods you can if you decide to go the route so they can at least gets close to a good base tune for the motor.
#12
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
I know this, but from everything he has said so far the car runs just fine except for some idle issues which other then a vacuum leak has me inclined to believe could be tune related. Another reason I mentioned this, as far as we know the car has never had a tune or at the very least a correct one. Part of the problem of buying a used modded vehicle. Unless the previsous owners kept records of what has been done to it and who has worked/tuned it. It can be a crap shoot. And its funny you mention that, I've had customers tell me the same thing, or the dreaded "Youtube Tells me I can run my car on PB Blaster" LoL All that aside I had one customer with a BMW I was doing some aftermarket suspension work for go on and on about how wonderful his K&N Filter was. I pulled it to inspect it and it was dripping K&N Filter Oil. I asked him if he recently cleaned it and he told me "No, I just keep re-oiling it" I just stood there dumb founded....I couldn't believe what I was hearing.
#13
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
What happens is from the factory is the 5-6th cluster is pressed onto the shaft but the tolerances are not as tight as they should be or could have been from the factory. It took me forever and a lifetime to diagnose what the hell was actually going on with my car. My Comp T/A was in an accident by the original owner so I was afraid it was something related to that. But no mater how many times I threw the damn thing on the lift, checked alignment and pinion angles everything was spot on. I read someplace of someone having a similar issue and it being the 5-6 gear cluster lose on the shaft. Pulled my trans, and sure enough the gears slid right off. There was some slight wear on the shaft but nothing extensive.