dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Since my cam swap, I have a bad oil leak. I've narrowed it down to two possiblities. One is that the Fluidampr balancer I have may not be as "broad" as the stock hub that I once had. Therefore, the timing cover seal doesn't fully seal around the damper hub, allowing it to leak. However, I had the balancer before the cam swap. I also have decided that maybe the timing cover may be twised just enough that the crank snout is not completely center to the seal, causing a gap on one side. However, with the pins at the top to align the thing, I kinda ruled that out. Besides, I don't think the bolts would have threaded in there if that were the case. I get oil on the balancer and it slings it everywhere. Any suggestions? I am about to give up.

-PEPE-

iTrader: (10)

I'd recommend using mic caliper to measure the new dampner hub vs the old hub diameter to rule that out. I have heard of people twisting the seals but twisted timing cover would be a new one for me, guess anything is possible. I'd be real interested in knowing if the hub sizes were the same. Post a follow-up when you find out please.

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

there are 2 different hubs. LT1 and LT4. the 4 is larger and you may have gotten a seal for the 4 which has about a .030 difference. That is most likely the cause. FYI there are 3 different timing covers also, but if you're using your original one, that rules that out. The crank hole is the same diameter but the seals between the 4 and 1 are different. It is totally impossible to misalign the cover. It's cast aluminum and would be broken before it was offset.
Hope this helps.

bills02raptor

iTrader: (4)

I have had this oil leak twice after cam installs and it is the water pump drive seal. This seal is notorious for this very thing. The trick is get a new gasket set from Autozone (replaces all three seals) and before you install the water pump seal you have to expand it. The easiest way I have found (don't laugh) is too get a CO2 cartridge (the ones like used in pellet guns) and lube the seal. Then push it on the end of the cartridge and it will swell the seal temporarily. Just keep trying it over the end of the drive shaft until it fits and then walla it will cure your oil leak from hell!

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

I have looked several times at the timing cover to determine the leak. There is no residue above the crank seal. I looked behind the opti with a flashlight (you can see a little behind there) and it was completely clean. I couldn't see any oil running down the sides of the cover where it could have came from the water pump drive. It's all clean up top. I can run the car for a minute after cleaning it all off and see oil beading up around the hub. It doesn't do it bad when I have the front jacked up obviously because the oil is in the back of the pan. I really need to level it and look at it but it has to be that seal.

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

I also just thought of something else. When I bought the seals for my cam swap, I ask for a seal for a SBC because I thought they were all the same. When that one leaked, I ask for another SBC at the parts house because I thought I might have damaged the other one for some reason. Is the diameter different between the SBC seal and one for an LT1?

bills02raptor

iTrader: (4)

not sure, run down to the parts store and mic them both real fast and that will tell you. You do know that Autozone carries a complete timing cover gasket set for like 11 bucks. Its that much for on gasket from the dealer.

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

I can say yes for the seals being different. They are close, but they are different. I have a little leak myself from the front of the pan. The wife bitches about any leak but it's nothing I worry about. At 6k miles when I change the oil It ever is low, so I don't worry about it. When you do pull the w/p make sure you use silicone grease to lube the seals and O-rings.

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

I just picked up a Timken seal from Autozone (they always seem to have better seals and bearings than Advance). This time I made sure we got a number for an LT1 engine. It will be next weekend before I can change it but hopefully that fixes it! I did forget to check to see if that number varied from a SBC seal. Didn't mic it either, don't think those guys could have mic'ed it anyway.